52 M38a1 Motor Pool Resto

Cannibalized for parts.

 

Looks right to me, just like my '52. At that time they only had one running/brake light for civilian street use, IIRC.

 

What I meant was that one of the tail lamps are made by Industrial Light and the other AutoLite.

 

OK, back to the tear down. I believe (maybe) that the core of this radiator will hold water. Unfortunately it was poorly stored by PO. I also believe that someone was a bit cavalier about removing it from the jeep.

No one bothered to tape off the in/outlet after removal and the mice had a field day. It's scaled pretty badly. Lot's of rust inside. On top of that, there's a little delicate hammer/dolly work needed at the top since there are a few somewhat minor dents. One of the supports has become unsoldered but that's a moot point since I intend to replace the core.

The shroud is in fine shape though. Just wire wheeling and sanding and this piece is good. There was a mish mosh of screws attaching it to the radiator. Someone was in there in the past.

The good news is that I've found Sanford Radiator which is in Waterboro Maine about an hour from where I work. This will be the first time using them but they get fab reviews and I got good vibes when I spoke to one of their technicians. I have another civvy radiator that I'll have them check out. The core is good but a support needs to be soldered and the thing needs to be boiled out and tested. I'm always happy to keep good original spares on the shelf. More money.

 

IMHO I would not replace the core until you have it tested, and probably not even then. The fins can be straightened, and you could even have the tank removed and the tubes "rodded". Leaks can be soldered. The OEM brass and copper quality is probably better than a modern replacement core, and which probably won't look original.

Also, check to see that the military unit isn't heavier duty/higher rated than the civilian.

 

Agreed. I'm reserved to replacing the core but I'll follow their lead. Spent some time straighting the fins and getting the hanta virus out of the tank. Shredded newspapers and plastic inside with rust and other unidentified organic materials. Will need to be rodded at the least. I didn't consider the quality of the copper in my last post. I appreciate the wisdom!

 

Fins straightened out and cleaned up a bit...
Feeling a bit better about this rad.

 

Pete, the A1 rad appears to be three core and the civvy for sure is two core. Although I know that a CJ5 rad will fit in a A1, I don't intend to use it for that purpose. I have a CJ rad in the 54 and it usually keeps up, even in the summer when pushing it. If I'm not mistaken, that one is a Modine dated 1958. There's nothing on this A1 rad telling me the mfgr or date though.

 

Can you tell, I'm a big advocate for the original radiators? Good luck with it!

 

Tranny and transfer out.

I haven't used the crane in a while. I had some help.


Needs cleaning and seals...

Still in tear down phase...

 

I have the replacement hat channel. Amazing that this (and other parts) shipped yesterday from DeBella and were on my doorstep by noon today. $20.00 for the part. UPS Ground.

I am pleased. The details seem to be correct.

It seems to be anatomically correct. Unsure about this, but the replacement part has a crush tube in stead of Oak filler. I thing the Oak filler was stock but at the same time, traps moisture.

I think blalp! (Shaun) is coming tomorrow but we're supposed to get 12"-18" snow tomorrow. I have no expectations. No worries if you can't make it.

 

I never have to worry about the parts I get from Pete Debella or John Bizal at Midwest Military.
Always top notch and they send them in a hurry.

Dave

 

Agreed to a large extent. I've been buying jeep parts from Peter since 1995 and the first time, I made a road trip to his shop. He's built a nice little business for himself.

 

Pete, since we're so close, I wouldn't mind knowing who you use for rad work. Thanks.

 

Several decades ago it was a place in the south end of Concord NH. But I doubt they are still around. Don't recall the name.

I do my own patching of leaks, etc. Muriatic acid and a Dremel tool are a big help in the prep.

 

Does the parking brake pads ride on the outside of the drum?

 

Both outside and inside. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

 

Another mundane kind of day partially consumed with family visiting from out of town and of course, 9" of snow. Self explanatory;

Plenty of scraping of 71 year old grease.

In the 71 years, the snubber seemed to become one with the tranny crossmember. Took some effort to pry that sucker out.

Some progress but this part is so slow and boring. Long way to go.

Since there's family in town, I was out in the barn at about 4:00 AM. It was so peaceful with the snow.

 

I promised pics of the setup but this is better:

The shoes press from both the inside and outside of the drum.

This is the handle assy. which is between the driver and passenger seats, mounted at the front corner of the (top of) tool box.

 

I think you're taking about Bob Rondeau. Word on the street was he got heavy metal poisoning.