What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

Put a flip kit on my drag link. I am not going to flip the tie rod because it will put the tie rod too close to the shock bodies. The drag link now rises 5/8" over 29" which trigs out to about 1.24 degrees.
Sorry for the poor lighting in the picture.

 

That should help with the bump steer. If you get around to relocating the shocks, the tie rod can be flipped for more clearance.
Where did you source your drag link and tie rod?

 

The tie rod and drag link I put on the dana 27, when I converted to saginaw about 7ish years ago. I got them from speedway at that time.

Relocating the shocks to the rear of the axle would be major surgery because of the steering linkage & PS pump on the drivers side. I would rather undo everything and go back to the Dana 27 with Ross steering than move the shock mounts.

 

I think with what you did you will see a major improvement .

 

im getting ready to repair, prime, etc my tailgate after blasting it to bare metal. There are still a few rough spots that need to be sanded and a few areas/scratches on the panels with pitting from surface rust.

I ultimately plan on using 2k epoxy primer after it’s prepped but what grade sandpaper do I need to use for prepping after the blasting. There’s very little pitting caused by the blasting since I used a pretty fine grade of coal slag. And what do I use to smooth out the surface scratches in the metal. It isn’t deep enough for full body filler but it’s enough it will show through paint if not covered?

 

Here’s a pic of the scratches

 

If it were mine, I would skim coat with filler and sand it back down removing 90% just leaving enough to fill in the scratches.

 

That looks like the same box I put in mine a couple of years ago. Made in U.S.A. (Michigan) and a great price so it is hard to beat. I found the aluminum allows the lid corners to be folded back by the ne'er-do-well crowd so I stiffened it up a bit with a steel bar underneath.

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When I first installed my hand throttle several years back I had the end of the cable housing attached to the firewall. When the Jeep flexed ( firewall away from engine) the engine would rev up. So tonight I built a small mount that attached to the intake and added a new cable and housing. Should be much better.

 

Was raining up north so decided to postpone the camping trip. Maybe next weekend.
Gave me time to finish a few jeep projects
Welded the cracked hanger and added a little paint.


Finished the winch project

Added Rocker protection

 

Over the summer I did a 1 piece tie rod and tie rod flip an my D27 axle.
Went to install my steering stabilizer and I'm running into clearance issues with the diff cover.
Looking for some pictures on what brackets are used with the 1 piece tie rod.

 

Are you able to see anything out of the passenger side mirror?…. Mine didn’t originally have a passenger mirror and when I rebuilt JEEP I put one on. That lasted about a week and I removed it because I couldn’t see anything out of it.

 

I am just asking: I think I read somewhere on here that it is a good idea to prime with some sort of primer before using any type body filler. If you don't rust can form under the filler and make it turn loose? hopfuly someone here can support this thought.

 

You can use a high build primer, it might help fill in some of the scratch. I’m a novice when it comes to paint and body work, but I did it both ways both on bare metal and over primer and haven't had issues yet, been about 6 years since I body worked and painted it.

 

It's partially useful, however most reviews indicate it vibrates allot. This vibration is noticeable at highway speeds. It settles down for most trail running. The main reason I added it was so my wife could get a glimpse behind us every now and then. She can pull up on the grab bar and see behind us. This does help when I'm leading runs to keep track of everybody around the corners.

 

My driver side mirror broke at 75 MPH on the freeway. The plastic adjustment ball snapped. Replaced with Grote mirror heads.

 

Did the ball joints and U-joints on the YJ's front axle. Was a 2 part project due to finding the u-joints absolutely trashed when I went to do the ball joints and I only had one spare 760X ujoint on the shelf. When I completed the job yesterday I found out I must have not been paying attention to when I clicked "buy now" and wound up with a "RABROPAR U-JONIT MADE IN CHINA". Note: I didn't misspell U-JOINT they did on their package haha.

My AMAZON review of said joint

 

Working on a winch mount for the tan 5



1/2in stock for the mounts, and 3/8 stock for the winch bed.
The 3 bolts in the frame are making use of holes already there.