Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Focker, Jul 23, 2016.
I got my unit out of storage. Put a battery in, pulled the choke, turned the key, it fired right up.
Didn't even get to look at project Bull. Too busy shipping parts. There's always tomorrow. Best day ever - tomorrow. There is nothing you can't do, tomorrow.
That is one sweet looker.
Applied the JEEP decals
Sprayed in my new color tonight. Need to do the hood yet and sand out a mistake on passenger cowl, but that’s for another night!
Its the black wheels
I have to agree. May have to paint mine. I will need something to draw attention away from the rest of my shadetree work.
Can I ask how you did one thing on the tub?
Was it difficult? Roughly how long did it take? I have everything to paint mine except a garage
Not at all! I just took my time and did a lot of prepping, glazing putty, and wax and grease remover. Most of the time was in fixing pitting and rust holes. That took several hours. The painting only took about 2.5 hours so far and I’m not really done yet. This paint job is definitely not pro, I’ve NEVER painted a vehicle before. I shouldn’t share my secrets but this is what I’m using with a clear top coat......
Next time around I will probably look into some spray equipment and do it right. I’m just having fun now and “practicing”
The diamond plate to fender flare connection. Did you have to modify the flare, or does the diamond plate fit closely to it? Is the plate a kit or did you make it?
Well it looks great from here.
In all honesty I wasn’t sure what it would turn out like but it really is turning out nice. The clear is laying down nice and even.
If you are considering doing this, here's what I did.
$40 DIY Corner Guards
Thanks Focker. I got the steel corners. Not because of rust but PO was good at smashing rear corners. I mocked up the steel and the fit is quite good. Sanded down the original corners and plan to attach new ones with rivets. Mine are flat, heavy steel that is thick enough for me to countersink the rivet heads. Before that I will use that costly panel adhesive just to make sure they don't ever shift. Was then going to mill away an area on the flare to eliminate any gaps. BTW, do you have a source for fiberboard? I'm somewhat sure I can make new terminal boards for repairing broken heater switches. Board cannot be conductive and without holes. 1/6 thick.
I think plastic laminate/"Formica" would work for your boards, Lee. Local cabinet shop or top fabricator should have plenty of scraps.
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