Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by jwjeep60, Nov 24, 2009.
I’m sorry you need jail bars. It sucks that some people just don’t get it.
In fact the "2 chevaux" Citroën was the true French Jeep, able to go to many places due to the very light structure - or the absence of structure!
Citroën 2CV history | 2CV heritage & fun anecdotes
I worked in the garage Saturday from 8pm till 2am. I should have just gone till 1:30.
I started with assembling a 1967 Quadrajet made by Carter for Rochester.
since my 4.3l engine had a computer controlled Carburetor at birth I had to put something else on it to stand alone when I first built the motor for the jeep. The seller of the engine knew a would need something else but hadn't gotten there with his project but he had an 80s quadrajet for a Pontiac that he threw in the deal.
Now... Chevy and GMC quadrajets have an angled fuel inlet for the passenger side fuel pump and everything else had a straight inlet / filter housing. You can make it work but it put the fuel line against the thermostat housing. This carb I am working on today is manual choke which frees up a lot of clutter and mhas the better fuel inlet for my needs.
20190713_202713 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Something I wasn't expecting was this unique substitute for the needle valve assembly.
20190713_203416 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
I just reused what it had since the kit parts don't work (this is a kit listed for this exact carb from summit based on the tag). Another odd thing When I placed the base gasket on the intake manifold.
In other news I dropped the Transmission out of the jeep again. This time with the transfercase attached. I didn't think to bolt the T-90 to the D-18 before installing into the Jeep now i believe the omix-ada mainshaft is too long and everything is locking up when the transfercase is torqued down. I intend to make some shims between the Transmission and transfercase and move on. From what I can tell the extra material is in the sliding gear mating splines this is forcing 2nd gear into the synchro assembly and mainshaft making it want to be in 3rd and 2nd ratios on the mainshaft while in neutral. The shims will hopefully allow me to dial in on my 2nd gear clearance.
The brakes are waiting on me getting the wheel bearing races seated and I need to order 2calipers 2flex hoses 4 banjo bolts 12 backing plate bolts and organic pads for all of the calipers. I plan to run the single master cylinder this winter to get a feel for the pedal force then adjust the master cylinder bore as needed.
The steering looks like it needs to stay as it is for this season. The needle bearings on the bellcrank are destroyed. I will get some new bearings or have bushings made for the bellcrank but it looks like manual Saginaw is the way to go for me.
the passenger rear wheel is on the jeep! With calipers, a rotor, and pads and everything clears.
I put the driver side flange on without checking the number of backing plate bolts... 3 the flange doesn't want to come back off so I will see abouts renting a puller.
The front still needs calipers and pads. (I need to take the driver side rear caliper in to get banjo bolts and then depending on thread get the front calipers to match. I also need to rent the big socket for the front bearing preload. Then I will mount the hoses and run new brake lines.
The Transmission is on the bench to be pulled apart. It was weird today I had it on the bench bolted to the d-18 and it was bound up then it wasn't after I loosened the input cap so I put the t-case gear on with nut and spun it in all the gears it had a lot of drag in and seemed to have something out of line because when going back and forth on the wrench in gear it would have a bit of slack before dragging so I'm pretty sure it might be a needle bearing issue. Basically It's coming apart... again.
I did get the bellcrank pulled apart and cleaned. Right now tapered bearings seems to be my best option on steering. That should get it down to 1/16 of a steering wheel turn of play.
Serial #'s should be marked on your Qaudrajet. Model # should begin with ' 15..... ' Get a rebuild kit fort that one. Run you about $28 , but it's the only way for " Miles " . . Float levels metering rods , linkages, ect. , all have measurements to adjust to.
After that , I used to rebuild these in my younger days. They were built in my Hometown . Do this right & you'll have one of best off road carbs available , IMO.
I started today with this at 8:40am...
20190722_000300 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Pulled out some stuff that wasn't letting it turn right. (Only left, not the way the engine wants to turn it)
20190727_125814 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Including a broken hard drive magnet, shift tower bolt, 1 too many countershaft needle bearing spacers.
20190727_130419 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Then Bent the ear on the rear washer to lock into the case since that was causing weird feeling when turning the cluster gear when combined with the extra spacer.
20190727_130912 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Fixed a reverse idler shaft that was too tight.
20190727_130041 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Reassembled without losing any needle bearings.
20190727_125833 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20190727_131837 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20190727_132233 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Checked everything worked. Mounted the transfercase and crossmember. Got them all back in the jeep (without a jack and it took darn near 3hrs) then I had the last gasket for the q-jet... so I had to make sure it worked and the Transmission too, so on went the grill and battery and a fuel line. It ran long enough to get to 190deg on the 5th or 6th go. I have some noisy lifters and The carburetor stripped out it's fuel filter housing threads. The weird float thing seems to be stuck but the Transmission and clutch work! Started cleaning up at 8:40pm
Another thing I noticed is I think the oil and filter in this are as old as my kids And the two other cars we have in the driveway.
20190707_081018 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20190719_173902 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
I should change that
You’ll be cruising in no time.
Got a good amount done yesterday, and a little today. Brakes are assembled and tires are on but I could use some ideas for the rear brake hoses from calipers to frame. Fronts were easy peasy rears will need brackets and drilling. In another pay check I will order a $30 bellcrank repair kit. I hate the thing but time and money are getting scarce. In other news I had some material laying around and made some 3/4" crossmember spacers.
20190804_183133 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20190804_183300 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
I would have gotten more done today but it was a humid 87deg and I wasn't making much headway other than getting the clothes sweaty.
Thursday my steering bellcrank rebuild kit arrived, and was immediately installed. I need to tighten the steering box end of the drag link but the steering play is down to about an inch at the parameter of the steering wheel. This was previously about a quarter turn of play. This was a crown kit Very happy with the time to money to improvement there.
Hopefully it will last longer this time if I don't take it swimming.
20190817_002322 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
To follow up on the brakes. I made some brackets... out of 12ga steel that bring the hoses inboard and below the frame just in front of the rear bump stops. Then ran my line across the crossmember that would normally hang a f-134 muffler. Then Friday I found my master cylinder rebuild kit. I feel like I won the lotto there since it was bought around 2005. Put the master cyl together and filled it with fluid. Bled the brakes found one leak at a union on the frame rail to the rear.one wheel had an open bleeder and another had a jammed bleeder. Pumped the brakes and held... and held... then I got tired and put a handle on the pedal against the dash and let it hold.
20190817_002352 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
My drive shafts are in place. The rear is good. The front had a u-joint out on the axle end.
I need to tighten the Transmission cross member and make sure the Transmission is bolted down.
Then I think I can put this jeep back with its tires on the ground for the first time in 4years since the t-90 blew and a front wheel bearing failed taking out the brakes.
I had to call state to ask what the deal was on my historic plates (3-6 week turnaround and it's been since June. Sounds like my application was lost so I will need to drive to the State Capitol and take care of that in person luckily that will be same day service.
Sadly When the wife got home Thursday and found me in the garage, we got in an argument. She kept insisting that I need to get new tires on the Jeep I kept saying that's out of budget. She said I'm no good to her dead and I've spent too much time and money to loose it to some 12yr old bald tires. I asked if I could put the better 2 on the m416 since it's tires are not matching and likely 30years old she said I had to get 4 tires for the jeep.
Anyone have some 7.50-16 tires that look appropriate for a snow plow and service jeep? I have trans trac lts I want to stick with 32" diameter but could use 4 or 6 ply these 8 plus are giant hockey pucks that work great in clay. I intend to enjoy this on road but still have some bite in the snow slush mud and clay. Thank you!
Over the weekend I had an issue with the brakes being locked up.
To recap I rebuilt my single reservoir and plan to order a split reservoir with the same bore or slightly smaller or larger based on feel. Well I didn't pull all of the residual pressure valve out I pulled the gasket and called it good. So since I have these awesome easy access floorboards I was able to swing the pedal arm clear pop the c-clip and let everything fly everywhere. Then clean and reassemble without the residual pressure valve which is in the base of the piston spring. Easy peasy, added the 2lb valve in line between the distribution block and the master cylinder. I don't think I have all the air out yet but dang it doesn't pull left OR right.
Currently it takes one full pump to stop in low range.
If I get all the air out and the pedal gets firmer great I will run a regular CJ5 split reservoir if it doesn't improve I will go with a slightly larger bore master cylinder.
All 4 of my calipers are 2.9" diameter k10 calipers so this might play a part vs the smaller 2.5" bore calipers used with 7/8" thick rotors.
2nd issue of the day is it still overheats and runs on. I think I need to check my timing Mark for tdc. It definitely has an exhaust odor.
With timing set I will see if I can adjust the idle to smell like roses. I do have 02 sensors in the exhaust so that might be handy if my DIY displays still work and are accurate.
Now the biggest issue: I can't figure this out.
With the jeep in reverse I can idle backwards without stress or strain on the engine. When I put my foot down and release the clutch, the jeep will coast about 2ft without any noise then stop abruptly. I nearly lost the hard top. I thought it was my breaks at first but it happens with and without brakes applied. I thought it happened in both high and low reverse. In the forward gears it will cost easily. In neutral I can push the jeep both forward and backward with ease. Brakes seem free of drag. Both axle sides have the shim packs. It might have taken a little more effort to start out in reverse on the first few tries but it is a weird cost then bind and bark tires or spring forward and roll.
A recurring item The Ross box is too close to the exhaust causing it to get harder to turn when the engine is warm. This has always been an issue with the 1st 3.3l v6 and this 4.3 I topped off the steering box and I can only really add a heat shield
Basically today had a lot of data capture. It is frustrating to have the issues but I am getting the time right now to address these. The fall reunion is only 3 weeks away.
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