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Dana 44 Pinion Pre Load

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by tripilio, Jun 29, 2020 at 6:19 PM.

  1. Jun 29, 2020 at 6:19 PM
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

    Miami
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    I finished replacing the pinion bearings on my rear Dana 44 and following the instructions of metalshaper, I set the rotational torque at 15 in/lbs. The spec calls for 10 to 20 so, 15 is the sweet spot. Now, here is the issue: metalshaper instructs to measure the rotational torque without the seal or the oil slinger. As soon as I placed the oil slinger and the seal and torqued to 205 ft/lbs the yoke gets really hard to turn. I suspected the seal lip was too high (the seal is seated as deep as it can go) and it was rubbing against the yoke shield. I then removed the shield, same. Since I have another seal and this one most definitively will come out I decided to do another test: I trimmed with a blade the section of the seal that protrudes up without touching the section of the lips. Re-set the yoke and even at 100 ft/lbs it gets impossible to turn as easy as metalshaper does in the video. Should I had set the rotational torque with the oil slinger? What am I doing wrong? I am at a loss...

    20200628_132621_copy_774x1032.jpg 20200629_174845_copy_1032x774.jpg
     
  2. Jun 30, 2020 at 10:26 AM
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I'm no expert but I do think you should expect the rotational torque to slightly increase with the slinger and seal. Did you tighten to the full 210 ft-lbs without the slinger and seal for your shim-stack-determining measurement?

    If I recall I had the same issue and someone suggested an alternative auto-parts-store part # for a lower-height seal and that helped. I will dig through my records and see if I can find the one I put in.

    Edit - I think it was this one from Yukon: More Information for USA STANDARD GEAR USA30128

    Also - is that a new distorted thread lock nut? I think you typically want to use the old one to set everything until you are literally ready to call it good and walk away, so you may need another new nut when you sort this out. Ask me how I know this...
     
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  3. Jun 30, 2020 at 11:00 AM
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

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    I will open everything up again to see what did I do wrong. :banghead:
     
  4. Jun 30, 2020 at 1:29 PM
    TIm E

    TIm E Member 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
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    Is it a new seal and are you sure it is the correct one? Your pic does not look right. That sharp lip sticking up (tip of arrow) is part of the seal, it looks old or used compared to the center portion.

     
  5. Jun 30, 2020 at 2:58 PM
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

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    It is (was) a new seal. The difference in color is because a little sealant I applied around it. I installed with the spring towards the inside, I believe that is the right way. But I have been wrong before...
     
  6. Jun 30, 2020 at 7:21 PM
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    When you checked preload initially did you have the nut fully torqued? If so then something has changed. On yours is the slinger between the yoke and pinion bearing, between the pinion bearing and shim pack, or between the housing and the seal? I’ve seen Them in any of these places from the factory. It really sounds like the seal body is hitting something but without knowing more hard to say.
    The preload should be checked without the seal as it can change the reading significantly. The slinger should not make a difference one way or another unless it is between the bearing and shims.
     
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  7. Jul 1, 2020 at 11:24 AM
    Michael Wedin

    Michael Wedin New Member

    Sweetwater, TX
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    Had the same problem with that type of pinon seal, the raised area rubs against the dust cover and gets in a bind. It also leaked. Got a new flat seal (just like original) from Debella jeep parts and everything worked beautifully. Was able to torque everything to spec.
     
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  8. Jul 2, 2020 at 8:06 PM
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    So the rotational torque should be exactly the same with/without the seal correct? I just rechecked mine and I’m getting ~40 inch/lbs with the nut torqued. Way too high.
     
  9. Jul 2, 2020 at 11:53 PM
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    NO.
    The seal creates drag which increases preload readings which is why preload is suppose to be checked without the seal installed.
     
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  10. Jul 3, 2020 at 8:48 AM
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

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    Mystery solved! After I finished setting up the pinion preload, that landed slightly over 15 I had to disassemble it to install the oil slinger and the seal. Well, someone (not me, obviously:whistle:) forgot to put back the shims under the front pinion bearing. That's why when I started to apply torque it would lock up. Yesterday I decided to disassemble it completely to investigate and saw the (other people's:sneak:) error. Upon placing the shims back, I got the same rotational torque as before: ~15 in/lb. I then placed the oil slinger and installed a new seal and... what do you know? It can be easyly rotatde by hand and it reads around 27 in/lb! The worst part is that I worked alone, can't blame anybody. :D
     
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  11. Jul 3, 2020 at 10:38 AM
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Glad you solved that one Tripilio!

    Do you think it would be enough to go from 25-40? I set mine at 25 (per Moses Ludel's instructions with new bearings), and I'm also using a somewhat inaccurate needle-style torque wrench because that's all I have access to.
     
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