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new fuel pump...bad?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by WRMorrison, Aug 5, 2012.

  1. Aug 10, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    From looking at the pump picture, it looks to me that you should be able to rotate the top 180. There should not be any mechanical connection between the top and bottom. That is if the bolt holes will allow rotation.

    Your second question. You should be able to blow through the pump in the same direction as the arrow but not back against the arrow.
     
  2. Aug 10, 2012
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Take your one gallon can of gas ( you do keep one around for the lawn mower, right?) fill the small cap that covers the spout with gas, pour that down the throat of your carb. You are now primed. Hit the starter, and it should start and run for 5 to 10 seconds which is enough for the pump to start to fill the bowl.
     
  3. Aug 10, 2012
    WRMorrison

    WRMorrison Member

    Mesa, AZ
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    Nope, don't even own one; all rock here...I swore when I left the midwest that I'd never mow again...:p But, I'll put a little gas in the carb and siphon fuel through the lines all the way to the carb and see if that works. I'm also going to take the fuel pump apart (again) and turn the top assembly 180 degrees so that the ports are on the correct side, and blow through it both ways to make sure that the flow direction is correct. And once I'm satisfied that the ports/flow is correct I'll replace all the lines with hard line and clean it up a bit. With any luck, I'll report back that the engine is currently purring in my garage...

    -WRM
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2012
  4. Aug 10, 2012
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Why not leave the pump alone? Mine ran for 50 years with the pump configured just that way with no problems.
    The diaphragm in mine finally gave out (which happens from time to time) and I needed a quick replacement and went to the electronic because it was available and the mechanical one wasn't. That was how it was when the Jeep was first assembled. No need to change that.

    And if you go messing around with the innards, you can make the thing not work at all.
     
  5. Aug 10, 2012
    WRMorrison

    WRMorrison Member

    Mesa, AZ
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    Wait a minute...the pumps were originally made with the flow "backwards?" I thought it was just assembled wrong or something?

    -WRM
     
  6. Aug 11, 2012
    joe51

    joe51 Member

    c. Fla.
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    May 24, 2011
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    Modern rebuilt pumps seem to be JUNK! My neighbor has put FOUR of them on his old Ford Truck in the last couple of weeks and hasn't even moved it out of the driveway! Two never worked at all and the other's died within a few days. I think they just throw them together and never test them and even the ones that do work fail shortly. Probably due to the water and alcohol in modern "gasoline".
     
  7. Aug 11, 2012
    WRMorrison

    WRMorrison Member

    Mesa, AZ
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    Not enough time in the day...

    I got the pump back on...again. Also got some hard line bent from the pump to the carb, and a small piece from the tank to the filter. Now I just have to make the long piece from the filter to the pump. I'm about 90% pleased with the way the lines turned out so far. I wish I could say that these were bent on the first try, but I've got a workbench littered with my first and second tries...lol. The actual bending is easy enough (no kinks), but there was a bit of a learning curve with learning how to measure and mark the bends, and I finally got the hang of double-flaring.

    Here's the line from the pump to the carb:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It also helped that I have a "strategically placed" rust hole in the passenger fender to test the bend angle from the pump:
    [​IMG]

    And here's the short piece I made for the tank-filter:
    [​IMG]

    The biggest help I found when flaring the tube is to make certain that the cut-end of the tube to be flared has a nice chamfer inside and out. I found a second use for one of my reloading tools for this job; works GREAT. Those that reload will recognize this as a case mouth deburring tool, and will put a nice 45° chamfer on the ID and OD.

    https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/Ma...creenlabel=index&productId=3156&route=C11J030
    [​IMG]

    -WRM
     
  8. Aug 11, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    I see you were able to rotate the top of the pump 180*.;)
     
  9. Aug 12, 2012
    WRMorrison

    WRMorrison Member

    Mesa, AZ
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    Yep, and it works great! Got it running tonight!!! :D:D:D It won't idle, and has a few other issues, but at least I know it runs.

    I'll post about my other issues in my other thread tomorrow; I called it quits for tonight...lol.

    -WRM
     
  10. Aug 12, 2012
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Not sure what you mean by "Flow 'Backwards'". They were mounted with the intake of the pump to the front and the carb side of the pump to the rear.
     
  11. Aug 12, 2012
    WRMorrison

    WRMorrison Member

    Mesa, AZ
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    Yes, that's what I was saying. Didn't know that :? It seems odd to me, but then again, I haven't seen one of these engines that's "untouched" from the way it left the factory; maybe it would make more sense to me then. Either way, I rotated mine around to make more sense "to me," and no more issues (for now) with the fuel pump.

    -WRM
     
  12. Aug 12, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    I like your routing better because the pressure side (outlet to carb) is up front and farthest from hot exhaust. The fuel pump does not care which clock position the top is in relation to the bottom. You did good..
     
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