T150 Rebuild, who has most complete kit?

dont want to hijack the thread, but since we re on the topic... my T150 is in the beginning stages of a rebuild...

i have it apart and all the pieces in order of removal... now for the $150 questioon... who has the MOST COMPLETE rebuild kit?

i ll pay the extra $$ for the better (more complete) kit available... specifically, the reverse/1st synchro inserts (i have only been able to find 2 of the 3 during the teardown)... im thinking the 3rd may be in the TC or something... will look before reassy...

i want to make sure i get the best kit for the $ (with ALL of the little parts/pieces etc)

thanks!!

 

Re: T15 rebuild

Well, rebuild "kits" will always contain 1) a small parts kit (seals, thrust washers, snap rings, loose bearings, etc.) and 2) blocking rings (the main wear item). From there most builders add the front and rear main bearings. If you need more parts than that, they are added on an "as needed" basis.

The T-150 is a Ford transmission, and parts should be dead easy to come by. I presume you mean the little spring-loaded shoe that goes into the synchro hub. That's not a wear item and not normally replaced, so it would not come in any of the kits you could buy. You can probably buy the whole synchro hub if you need to. Try Herm or Parts Mike or maybe "The Gear Box."

Just a word to the wise - use "hijack" and you're likely to trigger action by the mods. It would be perfectly fine to start a new thread with this question, and avoid action by the mods. Plus you'd be helping other Jeepers that search later with a question like yours - now the reply is buried in a thread about the T-15.

 

Re: T15 rebuild

timgr... i didnt think of that... sorry... going by your response, it looks like i may need to talk to someone at one of the places you mentioned, and look into a whole new synchro hub (maybe its 3rd gear?) as it jumps out of 3rd when de-accelerating as in heading for a stop...

i ll look into the other places... and thanks for the heads up!

 

Partsmike is well known for their T18 knowledge and very helpful on the phone. I imagine they also know the T150 pretty well. Be sure to post up how it worked out, my spare trans is a T150 also in need of a rebuild.

 

will do Norm!

i HAVE dropped and rebuilt and reinstalled a wrangler trans in right at 8 hours... of course i was getting PAID to do it AND i had a lift, but this one is out and already in pieces...

i looked at parts mike and have an email into novak (no reply as of yet... want to get shift forks too)

but i ll make sure to post pix and commentary

:easy rider: have a great day everyone!

 

**UPDATE**

Ordered the Master Rebuild Kit from Novak today... hopefully it will have everything in it that i need... will let yall know how it goes after brown santa shows up...

hope to drag the tranny progress out into the light so i can get a few pix this weekend too... have a friends cherokee to work on as well

 

i think about this kit also, please let me know.
thx

gerald

 

will do Gerald!

 

Brown Santa came today bearing a novak stamped box... i opened it and will post pix this weekend of the kit

im still thinking i may need to get a syncro assy (hub) for it... mines kinda chewed up... will let you know how it goes!

 

heres a question...

when assembling the tranny, i m going to use vaseline instead of grease to hold all the fiddlies... but what should i use for the final lube/oil?

any suggestions? i usually use 90wt gear dope, but since this is all new... maybe something else is better?

 

90wt is all I've ever used. You could go synthetic if you want something fancier. I used this in my VW http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=133&pcid=4 and if I notice any difference, it shifts harder cold now than it did with the factory lube.

There was some discussion recently that you want GL-4 not GL-5 for these transmissions. Supposedly there is a difference in how much EP additives (potentially) containing sulfur compounds. "Sulfur containing EP additives can cause corrosion problems in gears with parts made of bronze, brass and other copper alloys when high temperature environment is encountered." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extreme_pressure_additive This article addresses the question directly, and states that GL-5 from major suppliers will be ok. http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/gear_lube.htm

 

cool.... thanks timgr!

 

Napa sells a GL4 85-90...I think it's around $35 for a 4 quart jug.

I put GL5 85-90 in the T-18 rebuild, it seems okay but maybe a tad hard to shift to third, but I don't have anything in which to compare. Thought I'd try the Napa stuff next spring during all my regular fluid changes/fills.

 

good deal... i just didnt know if there was a NEED for royal purple or some other whoopiteedoo oil...

guess i ll go with the straight 90wt...

PLAN to start the re-assemble this weekend, but we ll have to see how that goes... mom wants to get her herra did mehh

i have some pix and i need to get a boot (for the fork/BH) but other than that i think im good... will make a longer follow up post later... its been one of THOSE weeks

 

I'd recommend 85-90 or 90w no synthetic. GL-4 if you can get it. Synthetic can cause shifting issues on older transmissions with brass/bronze blocking rings. Been there done that got the t-shirt.


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OK... heres my review and answer to the kit question...

The kit that i got was from a parts place that offers a set of 'exclusive rebuild directions'... which is nothing more than the xerox copy of the TSM pages for the T-150...

it came packaged well and was organized with its fiddly parts bagged together, and gaskets/oil seals included
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including seals and springs and stuff...

one of the fiddly parts that i NEEDED that was NOT included was the 1st/Reverse insert... i thought i had lost it and had to order them from someone else and they were a good price at .99 ea...
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the re-assembly was pretty easy with the directions provided, even though i had to go get a bearing splitter to get the rear bearing/adapter off in order to get the mainshaft back in... i got my splitter at HF for $40 and it comes with 2 heads and several stand offs for different depths... the bearing came off in a snap (no pun intended)

Re-assmbly was straightforward and the use of vaseline worked great to keep the fiddlies in place...

my shift forks were new, so i didnt need those and after lubing all the internals and playing with it (to learn how it REALLY works) i dry fitted the shifter... after a couple tries, i got it in and back out for final assembly...

some black beauty sealant on the gaskets and replace the bolts and i was off and running and heres the final product...
[/IMG]

i DO need to get the shift fork boot, but i will order that in a day or 2 as mine is ripped up... and i ended up going with the off-the-shelf 90wt from NAPA
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MY suggestion would to be get the less expensive kit from the OTHER place and save the $40 for the 'exclusive' instructions... use the TSM that you probably already have on hand...

all in all it was a good experience and it REALLY helped me with my confidence in building something that most consider to be pretty daunting..

thanks for the advice peoples...

i ll use the left overs for my next one (in my lovely brides JEEP)

 

The synchronizer inserts are not normally included in a rebuild kit. The exception to that is a T-90 kit frequently does because they are stamped steel and known to break. On most transmissions the inserts are considered hard parts, like gears.
Looks nice!


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Looks like the same fancy partitioned cardboard box I got from Novak with my T15 kit. I agree that their instructions are no more than the tsm pages. I also got a d20 kit from them and it was no more than the Crown brand stuff packaged up. The t15 kit may be the same Crown parts for all I know...just emptied out of the plastic packages so we won't know.

 

i didnt want to drop names.. to protect the innocent... they roped me in with the 'exclusive instructions' tag line...

thought i would put it out there in an effort to save some others some $$

either way... its finished and it WORKS!! i ran thru all the gears several times and spun the shafts by hand... i think im gonna be fine

:easy rider:

 

For that..I thank you...