Buick Evenfire 231 V6

Hey all,

I just picked up a unfinished project. Its a 66 CJ5. The previous owner started to put in a Buick V6 (carborated) the motor is all in but it is not wired. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor?

Thanks for the help

 

Most people make it up on their own. Even the Dauntless wiring on the '71 I scrapped seemed excessive.

This is the way I look at it and I may be missing something or over simplifying. My 4-cyl has just basic automotive wiring that has been around for 100 years (except modern alternator ).

1. Basic ignition circuit (incl. coil/ballast)
2. optional electric choke provision (hand choke just fine)
3. basic GM 1-wire alternator
4. electric temp gage

The most confusing is the science of a ballast resistor. Read up on that and you will learn how the basic ignition circuit appears.

Ar you sure you have an even fire? We recently have had a discussion on flywheel balance problems using a 225 unit on a 231.

 

Im pretty sure its an evenfire it came from a 84 Regal. I picked up the jeep for $500 the motor was just rebuilt and put in but not wired a friend needed to get rid of it quick so I thought Id pick it up as a little project. I figure that that would probably the best way to wire it but was just wondering

 

If your engine is a stock 84 model year engine, it should already have an electronic ignition and wouldn't need a ballast resistor. They're only need with points type ignition systems.

 

Im runnin a 85, non turbo carbed 231.... I ran a a wire to teh coil thats hot when key is on only. coil has a built in resistor so there is no need for one. Carb should have some electricals on it, but thats only for warming purposes ( liek glow plugs on a deisel) I didnt hook ANY wires up except the hot wire tot eh coil, the alt wires and starter wires. For all the guages I went to mechanical. Its really that simple simple to hook, treat it like its a older small block chevy... you can start them babies up almost sittin on the floor... infact I started mine up on a bolted down engine stand.

 

I believe it does have an electronic ignition??? Can you give me a breakdown of where the wires from the distributor hook up too?

 

1984 --Hmmm, That distributor is useless unless you run the ECM <computer>. (look for no vac advance diaphram). The carb may also need to go due to the electronic M/C solenoid Rochester.

However, You can keep it all and run the ECM. I assume you don't have the harness so this will be way more headaches for a beginner level electrical guy. I use to be cerified in GM electronics many moons ago but still feel comfortable with a rats nest ECM harness laying in the driveway --tracing and labeling circuits. Voltage in and voltage out --nothing complicated (over simplified I know).

Give us a quick inventory of everything you have and we can guide you in some direction according to your abilities.

mruta: any issues with the EGR on a 1984 if he goes non-ECM?

 

I dont have it here to look at it so Im not positive that it is that distributor probably not. I am going to go pick it up this weekend but was just trying to get a game plan on where to start and to get some info. Im just trying to get a idea of what wires go were to make my own harness and get it started. The other problem is that it has a chevy tilt column in it but the ignition was stripped out and all the wires were pulled out of the bottom of the column. I think that I might just run a couple toggles and a start button for now. Or a keyed ignition in the dash(probably easier) What do you guys suggest?

 

thats what I was leaning towards for the security any way that you could scan that wiring diagram and email it to me?

 

You have an instant message

Thanks

 

You can run the ecm distrib, and carb. Mines all still there with only the coil power hooked up. You may experiance rough idle and thats about all. The electro stuff on the carb, and distrib are for timing advancement. My 231 has ran for 2 years, without any of it hooked up... Youll notice it idling like it has a mild cam in it, and maybe some hard starting in the winter time. More often than not, it starts with no troubles.

 

Interesting, I didn't think an electric carb would run on its own. I know my '81 Cutlass had an M/C Solenoid (Mixture/Control) I guess unplugged it would run on a default. Same with the distributor... it appears to function without ECM input but I imagine that only controls advance/retard off the Knock sensor and maybe retards slightly for cold start-up.

IIWM, I would find an old 2bbl and an EF HEI. Less to figure out on you own

 

I finally bought a vacum advanced distrib from ebay and ran it for a while with stock carb. People tell me I cant unhook the stuff rom my carba nd distrib on my 2.8 bronco II as well... without going to duraspark ignition... mines never bene hooked up, and I have less troubles than the rigs with it hooked up.

Now, I had an 86 nissan carb, and without the wires hooked up it wouldnt idle.... but Ive ha dno troubles with that on the 3.8... a little more advancement on the distrib and its fine... but as you say... older 2bbl and ef hei the way to go to solve it all.


Anyone know if a 225, carb and distrib will work on the evenfire 231?

 

No to the distributor, since you'd be going oddfire to evenfire and the carb probably won't fit the mounting pattern. If it could be bolted up, then it should work fine. Later evenfires used Dualjet carbs rather than 2Gs.