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timing every where when above idle????

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by USMC-Ordie, Dec 16, 2004.

  1. Dec 16, 2004
    USMC-Ordie

    USMC-Ordie New Member

    Yuma Arizona
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2004
    Messages:
    46
    I have the jeep running and have a new coil, points, condenser, plugs and wires. It idles fine and is at 6 degrees BTDC but when I depress the accelerator the timing mark jumps all over the place and I can get no steady indication and if I take it out on the road there is no power. Is this electrical Or induction? It has a new Carb as well. Also I bought a aftermarket tach that is switchable between 4, 6, or 8 Cyls and it is not indicating correctly (way high). Is there a special tach for this motor?
     
    USMC-Ordie, Dec 16, 2004
    #1
  2. Dec 16, 2004
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    9,221
    You have the vacuum advance plugged when trying to set the timing?

    Perhaps the weights are sticking?

    Tack needs to be set to 6 cylinder that's all.

    You tell us, does it have points or HEI?
     
    sparky, Dec 16, 2004
    #2
  3. Dec 16, 2004
    USMC-Ordie

    USMC-Ordie New Member

    Yuma Arizona
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2004
    Messages:
    46
    it has points and the vacuum advance is plugged off. Is there a HEI conversion?
     
    USMC-Ordie, Dec 16, 2004
    #3
  4. Dec 16, 2004
    USMC-Ordie

    USMC-Ordie New Member

    Yuma Arizona
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    Aug 20, 2004
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    oops its a 66 with an oddfire
     
    USMC-Ordie, Dec 16, 2004
    #4
  5. Dec 16, 2004
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    9,221
    Yes, just type HEI in the search. As much as you need to know about the conversion. R)
     
    sparky, Dec 16, 2004
    #5
  6. Dec 16, 2004
    m38willys

    m38willys Jeep Vice 2024 Sponsor

    Green Cove...
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2002
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    690
    Lots of play in the distributor shaft will cause that eratic reading as well.
     
    m38willys, Dec 16, 2004
    #6
  7. Dec 16, 2004
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    Could also be timing chain!!
     
    Mcruff, Dec 16, 2004
    #7
  8. Dec 17, 2004
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    3,437
    Yep if the timing gears are original, aluminum with nylon teeth, many of those teeth end up in the oil pan, sometimes clogging the screen...

    I'd check the timing gears/chain and replace them if original. Then do the HEI or at least replace the points with a Pertronix conversion if you have the Delco-window distributor. Pertronix Ignitor p/n 1165.
     
    lynn, Dec 17, 2004
    #8
  9. Dec 17, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    I'm with Lynn. GM engines of this era were all prone to slipping a tooth or three when the timing chain/gears get worn. The engine will run and idle decently, but have no power. Remember, the cam drives the distributor, so once the timing chain slips, everything goes out the window!
     
    w3srl, Dec 17, 2004
    #9
  10. Dec 17, 2004
    iamgeer

    iamgeer Member

    Calgary,...
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2004
    Messages:
    226
    I had this happen a little while ago and it turned out to be bad points. The points were new, but got fried by a bad voltage regulator. I changed both and everything went back to normal.

    Karl
     
    iamgeer, Dec 17, 2004
    #10
  11. Dec 17, 2004
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2003
    Messages:
    2,084
    any vacuum leaks?
     
    66cj5, Dec 17, 2004
    #11
  12. Dec 17, 2004
    USMC-Ordie

    USMC-Ordie New Member

    Yuma Arizona
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2004
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    46
    We think we fixed the problem. I had a wire coming from the ignition switch (starter post) to the positive terminal on the coil. We removed this wire and it works. I have been told that this wire is supposed to be attached to the coil or that there should be 2 wires that go to the positive terminal on the coil. My voltages readings are as follows:

    With wire installed to coil I was getting 12 volts to the ballast resistor going in and only 1.8 - 2.0 volts coming out. The voltage read the same (1.8 - 2.0) at the coil. Without this wire I am now getting 12 volts going into the ballast resistor and 8.5 - 9.3 coming out. Can anyone tell me if this is right or is there something else wired wrong somewhere???
     
    USMC-Ordie, Dec 17, 2004
    #12
  13. Dec 17, 2004
    USMC-Ordie

    USMC-Ordie New Member

    Yuma Arizona
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    Aug 20, 2004
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    46
    Was a small one at the carb but we fixed that issue...
     
    USMC-Ordie, Dec 17, 2004
    #13
  14. Dec 17, 2004
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    855
    Your second reading at the ballast resistor is correct (somewhere around 9 volts).
     
    53Flattie, Dec 17, 2004
    #14
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