Warn hub rebuild instructions and stud sizes

I want to completely rebuild my stock 74/75 dana 30 lockout hubs. I have searched around and have not found any instructions on how to tear them down, clean them, and re-assemble them. I know to use white lith and no grease. Also need to know if there is anything that I shouldnt use to clean them. I usually use engine degreaser (purple stuff) in a gallon jug and just shake it till its clean but I have never messed with hubs before.

Can someone tell me what size studs to buy to replace the bolts.

Thanks

Bob

 

I would check with Warn to see if they have anything as far as rebuild/service instructions. In my experience Warn has great customer service and tech support. For studs I think they are 3/8 coarse thread into the hub and whatever you choose on the other end as far as thread count. I usually use fine thread on the outer end if doing studs.

 

Yup, 3/8 nc into the bearing hub. Try and find some studs with a wide shoulder so when installed in the bearing hub the locking hub rides on the shoulder and not the threads. The threaded portion of the bearing hubs are inset so the shoulder of the stud will be down in the hole a bit. Do not use exhaust studs. They are not really strong enough. Get some that are at least grade 5. Lots of debate about grade 5 vs grade 8. I'm not going down that path but if interested do a search as there is quite a bit of info and opinions in previous posts. Hard to help with rebuilding the hubs without knowing which ones you have but you will need snap ring pliers to disassemble. They are easy to disassemble and rebuild. Purple power, castrol super clean, paint thinner all work well for cleaning them and won't damage anything except the seals.


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Good point.

 

Ok so disassemble and soak in purple power. Cool thanks.

 

After you pull off the hub, flip it over and clean all the grease out and there is a snap ring in there that holds the splined gears in the hub. Take that snap ring off and pull the gears out, there is a big spring behind the gears, don't lose it. I have never replaced the parts in the hub, I just cleaned them up, greased them and reinstalled. As suggested above, I would call Warn for replacment parts.

 

Ok so I took the dial assembly off the hub body. The dial assembly has a steel plate that is threaded onto the knob and it has a bunch of small springs that connect the plate to the driver ring. There is a single steel pin that keeps the plate from being rotated and removed from the knob. The hub body had the driver slug which rides in a bearing and was retained by a snap ring. I have removed the snap ring and I have it all soaking in super clean.

I would like to remove the knob from the assembly to clean it, repaint it, and check or replace the O ring. The grease in the bearing is like chocolate pudding so I would bet there was some water intrusion. Can I just pull the pin out to unscrew the plate to release the knob from the assembly? Warn was no help with this. All they offered to do is sell me a rebuild kit and they would not tell me if it included instructions that would answer my question.

 

Should be a roll pin iirc. Remove that and the plate should unthread from the dial then you can resume disassembly.


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Thanks. Thats exactly what I needed to know.

 

Anyone know if the bearing in the hub body comes in the rebuild kit? One of mine is frozen solid. Warn was yet again no help.

 

In my experience, it depends on which "wrong" rebuild kit you end up with.
I got the kit that was supposed to be for my hub part # but it was for two other styles also and only had a few of the parts I needed for mine. I mainly needed the seal that surrounds the knob. It came with a few different sizes of O-rings but none were close enough to work.
It did not come with that plastic bearing ring. Even the gaskets were crap.

Our local 4 wheelers supply had a good dozen or more different WARN rebuild kits on the wall and the one I got had my model # listed and contained the most parts in it I recognized.

 

That is exactly the same hub I have except I do not have that black plastic ring shown in your pic below the stack of gaskets. The only part I actually need is the bearing that is pressed into the bottom of the hub body and I don't see it in your pics so I bet it will not come in their kit. I am going to have to find a new hub body with a good bearing. I can't even pry the rollers out and they are flattened on the side that was facing the drive slug so they must have been frozen for a while. I soaked them overnight in super clean and tried to pry them out with a screwdriver and hammer. They still didn't move.

Time to shop for a lockout body with a good bearing.

Thanks to everyone for the info.

Bob

 

Bob, That black ring is the bearing used on later hubs. The earlier versions had the roller bearings in a steel case like you describe.

One of the issues with finding the correct parts for Warn hubs is because sooooo many revisions were made during production. Even hubs with the same part # may have different bearings, gaskets, even thread pitch on the screws.

 

Can the black plastic bearing replace the old roller bearing setup?

 

I don't think so. Iirc the plastic bearing sits in an area that is tapered or stepped whereas the metal roller bearing presses into a concentric bore.


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I will just locate a replacement one. I try and avoid plastic parts whenever possible so new ones are out of the question.

Thanks

 

The plastic bearing actually hold up very well. Typically better than the metal bearings as long as kept lubed because there arent the rust issues from any moisture that gets trapped in the hub. Really isnt much load on this bearing so the plastic or whatever it is holds up fine.


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