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Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Big Burro, Dec 10, 2004.

  1. Dec 10, 2004
    Big Burro

    Big Burro New Member

    Corona, California
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Messages:
    16
    I've got two small problems that are annoying me to death.

    First, when I depress the clutch pedal I get a subtle rattling noise. the noise doesn't start until the engine is warmed up and only happens when I depress the clutch all the way in. I can let off about half an inch and it stops. I pulled the tranny, pulled the clutch, everything looks fine. Put it all back together and it's still there.

    Second, how in the world do you eliminate the t-case leak at the rear output shaft? I've change the seal, changed the shaft, still leaking.

    Any input I could get would be beyond great.
     
  2. Dec 10, 2004
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    First, Welcome from Portland, OR!

    On the leak problem, the seal rides on the companion flange or yoke, not he output shaft. Check that carefully for pits in the seal area. It's also common to have the oil leak past the splines on the output shaft that drive the yoke. A little RTV smeared on the splines works wonders for this. Make sure you clean all surfaces with brake cleaner or something similar that will leave no residue. It's also common for the oil to leak past the shims for setting bearing preload. There was a thread on how to solve this. May want to try doing a search on this topic. There were also some part #'s that were helpful for putting TWO output seals on to help eliminate this problem. Also make sure you use some sealer like rtv on the bolt threads that hold the rear output housing on. The oil likes to work past the threads on the bolts and cause a leak also.

    On the rattle problem, does it happen when in gear, in neutral only? Might help to pin point the problem with a little more in-depth info.

    Nickmil.
     
  3. Dec 10, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Re the leak, likely your TC is leaking through the shim pack. Others here have put the shims together with sealant between them (Copper Coat?), though I think that a thick bead of silicon sealer on the outside of the shims makes more sense. I've always done the sealant on a dry, clean transfer case, and let it set before filling with oil.
     
  4. Dec 10, 2004
    Big Burro

    Big Burro New Member

    Corona, California
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Messages:
    16
    I think I'm misunderstanding you nickmil. The yoke attaches to the E-brake housing which is held on to the shaft by a large nut and the seal is behind the E-brake back plate. If you take the E-brake off, remove the two jam nuts on the shaft, you have the seal. I've had it apart a couple times and don't remember having any shims to replace. It's been a few months since I last tore it apart but, unless I've lost a few marbles, I'm pretty sure of the assembly. Also, I replaced the shaft with an oversized shaft from 4 Wheel Parts and that didn't seem to help at all. I've never heard of TWO seals though. I'll have to look into that one.

    The rattle happens whether it's in gear or not. More info is that I replaced the clutch with the center force dual friction and the T/O bearing about a year ago. This noise has just started happening about a month or two ago and I haven't been able to locate it.

    Thanks for all your help. It sounds like you guys are really knowledgable and I do appreciate your input.
     
  5. Dec 10, 2004
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    938
    No mechanic here but wouldn't TO bearing be a possible culprit? I know you said you just replaced it but so did I about 3 months ago and mine's rattling now. Difference is Mine rattles when there's no pressure on the clutch pedal and it stops when I put pressure on it.
     
  6. Dec 10, 2004
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    Burro, there's a double-lipped seal that will help, as long as the seal surface is good.
    National Seal # 473229, same seal front or rear on the D18. And of course, make sure the surface is lubed where it rides, a dry start up on a new seal will ruin it immediately.
     
  7. Dec 10, 2004
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,349
    The shim pack that was mentioned is between the main cast iron housing and the little housing that the speedo cable goes into just in front of the yoke and the parking brake, its what preloads the output shaft bearings.
     
  8. Dec 10, 2004
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
    Messages:
    12,381
    Like Nickmil said about the splines, there's a good chance it's leaking there since they're submerged in oil. I used nonhardening permatex on the splines and made a gasket for under the washer that the nut tightens down on.
     
  9. Dec 10, 2004
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    I don't suppose you've had an assistant help you in pinpointing the rattle? Zeroing down the location would help.

    An idea: loosen the clutch adjusting nut all the way and take the ball off the fork (and any spring on the fork as well). Depress the clutch pedal a few times. That'd at least discriminate between the linkage and inside.
     
  10. Dec 10, 2004
    Big Burro

    Big Burro New Member

    Corona, California
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Messages:
    16
    You guys are outstanding. Lynn, I really appreciate you turning me on to this site. I've been on the 4wd site for a couple years and actually left awhile ago because we all just argued all the time. This is great. I'm going to go get that seal this weekend, I'll let you all know how it goes.

    On the rattle, my Gramdfather (the original owner) has a motto of "drive it till it breaks then you'll know what's wrong" and although I and although I agree with him 99% of the time, I'v egot to go against him on this one. I think I'll get my son out there to listen for it and see if I can't nail down the location.
     
  11. Dec 10, 2004
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Messages:
    822
    See http://members.cox.net/mrobosson/JeepPics/JP027.jpg for my solution to this. The one on the left is one of the originals, the one on the right is mine. When I set up my shim pack, I got lucky as I found a scrap piece of aluminum the thickness I needed. I made my own 1 piece shim, and cut grooves around the oil passage and bearing hole. My thinking was that the copper spray-a-gasket sealer would fill these grooves making it a better seal. I haven't run my transfer yet, (coming up soon though... :D ) but I've had gear oil in it for a month now, with nary a drop underneath. :)

    HTH
     
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