I would like some opinions on shackle bushings

I am going to be buying greasable shackles and main eyes for my 74 CJ-6 pretty soon.

I have read everything I can find on what is available for the stock springs and everything is about the same except bushings. I have found there are 3 bushing choices available:

Rubber - This is what the OEM used. It should absorb the n/v/h but will it last at the beach with salt exposure? I don't thing they are intended to be greasable either.

Poly - This seems to be the normal now. I know salt won't bother it but I want the Jeep to drive well (as good as it can on stock springs).

Brass - This seems like it would be strong but how will it deal with n/v/h and salt exposure?

It would seem that the simple answer would be poly but I want to be able to drive the Jeep on the highway (60mph) without it being too loose. Some people have reported that using poly with the stock 1.75" wide springs results in a loose feeling suspension even with stock caster. This isn't a rock crawler and it will see mostly beach and road use so it needs to drive as good as it can. The brass ones are reported to hold up well but leave me with concerns about noise/vibration/harshness especially with the Jeep being light (fiberglass tub, fenders, no cage, aluminum wheels, etc). I don't think I care for the rubber ones.

Whats your opinion and/or experience on these?

Thanks

Bob

 

My experiemce so far..

Rubber: Sux and doesn't last

Poly: Just installed greasable shackle bolts, new shackles and poly bushings. So far after the first ride, the steering seemed to be wandering a bit.. Next step is a front end alignment..

 

I've always preferred OEM style rubber bushings and ran my Jeep on the beaches out here a lot when I was heavy into surf fishing. The bushings lasted a long time so I can't really say whether the salt environment was detrimental to the life of the bushings. I would say the bolts would be more likely to be affected. Grease and rubber bushings don't go together.

 

i have poly bushings on the upper a-arms on my 97 tacoma and they squeak alot. even after regreasing them they are only quiet for a month or two then squeaks start again. all the other bushings are original and look like they are holding up fine.

 

ive got brass with greaseable bolts and love em no more harsh than the old rubber ones were

 

Are those the HD rugged ridge ones with the castle nuts and cotter pins?

 

yup i was concerned that they would be cheesy import junque happy to say they aren't...

 

I am seriously leaning toward the brass. My main concern with poly is too much play with the skinny 1 3/4" wide springs. My concern about the brass is how long it will last on the street.

 

2+ years and two springs later same bushings doing well plenty o street time with as much if not more wheelin...

 

Is there a link to the source for the brass bushings?

 

I've used poly for years. No play if installed correctly and quality parts are used. Easy to replace too. No press needed and no steel to rust in place except the center sleeve. A little silicone lube or antiseize eliminates that problem. I tear up rubber bushings quick. Poly has lasted much longer for me and are easy to replace. Some report squeaking but with all the creaks and squeaks of an early cj I've never heard it in my Jeeps. Now if you had a car that was quiet it would be a different deal.
Can't comment on the bronze bushings but would think poly or rubber would be a softer ride as they have some give where bronze wouldnt.


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http://www.cseoffroad.com/1827016.html

They are unfortunately made in india but not available from anywhere else. Price shown is per shackle. I bought 6 of them and I am going to use the 2 extra for greasable main eyes. The bolts are larger diameter than stock so be prepared to enlarge the holes in the frame mounts and shackle mounts. Not sure of the grade on the bolts as the top of the head was machined flat before it was drilled. They are beefy and I like the way they did the grease channels. The only surprise was that the one plate is threaded so the bolts have to be completely unscrewed. You cant just remove the nut and tap the bolt out but I dont think its an issue. I hope to get my frame stripped down, coated, axles and springs painted, and shackles installed in the next month. I will try and post pics.

 

I like Poly-- rugged & lasts. I grease mine. I've put more than 200,000 miles on poly bushings-- never was concerned about it being tippy. The poly is definitely firmer than the rubber

I think the brass is good for street-only use, but will not allow as much 'flex' as a rubber or poly bushing.

 

On the bushing issue...certainly this topic has been covered; "how do you get 60 year old OEM bushings out!!"
Any tricks? tools? I need need a magic (old guy) trick.

 

Well I'm not an old guy but I have done a buttload of them on Jeeps from the rust belt. For the really bad ones I would set up my c-clamp style ball joint press to put pressure on the bushing and then heat the spring eye with mapp gas torch. As the spring expands the bushing should pop out from the pressure applied by the press. Sometimes you get it all, sometimes the outer metal sleeve stays behind. If the sleeve stays take a hacksaw and pass the blade through the sleeve. Use the saw to cut the sleeve right where the end of the spring eye meets back at the spring. This gives you a small gap to help avoid cutting the spring. Once you cut the sleeve take a punch and bfh and curl the sleeve in on itself. This will break it loose so it will slide out.

 

i used a sawzall and a bi-metal blade... went slow and slit the sleeve 2x and used a punch and a BFH...

drive out the smaller piece and the rest should follow without too much trouble...

install was pretty easy too, grease em up real good and tap the new bushings into the holes...

WOW!

someone is actually looking for info that i already have!!

take your time and watch the cuts... POST PICS!!

 

Where did you find a blade that small for a Sawzall? My metal cutting blades will not fit in the bolt hole.

 

unless i read it wrong, i think you are removing the bushings from the spring mounts right?

if thats the case, then this is the blade i used



if you punch out the inner sleeve, then this will fit right in there... if you cant get the inner sleeve out, i used a 5/64s drill bit to chew up te ribber between the inner/outer sleeve, punched out the inner and went after the outer with this blade...

if youre lucky (like i was) once the drill bit bites in the rubber, you can let the drill bit walk around the outside of the inner sleeve and it will pull the inner sleeve out...

i have also heard that a broken hacksaw blade will fit the sawzall quick release, although i have not tried it... they look to be similar in size

this is the thread i started about it... sorry, no pix though... didnt have my camera...

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?92745-Bushing-Replacement-Hints

 

A regular hack saw will work too, not in the sawzall, I meant actually cutting by hand.

I did that and also used an air chisel and drove it out.