Piffs Rebuild

Haha its not that fast of a build, but thank you. How far are you on your build these days anyhow? I don't recall seeing If you got that engine in?

When I first bought the jeep I was 17 or 16. I am now 22, however for a long time I couldn't work on it. Trying to survive, bills, food, ex-fiance, and college.
This past two years I have been able to throw some parts at it. I was fortunate to get access to a welding shop, and then at home to a mig welder and some good tools.





Anyways, I got good and bad news....
The bad news is I busted my tuxedo parks license plate, and the glass is broken too.... I see my license plate and its like ahhhh. (glass must be bad luck for me windshield, front marker lights, broke my motorcycle tail light, license plate light, haha even my truck has a cracked tail light wasn't me though)

Good news is my jeep now resides in the garage, the garage door busted the license plate light. this makes it allot easier to work on instead of in the rain. Other good news is my transfer case barely marks its territory. After all if it doesn't leak it means I broke something right.

If any one was wondering whats in the transfercase breather its nothing special.

It got bent out of shape probably from me being to lazy to find the wrench big enough...


then you got a lower level

made some brackets that go right behind the belcrank bolt on the frame, for some reason everything is moved to the right 1/2 inch.



all finished up and ready to install, Im thinking next time I have the money I will buy a bench top grinder. Dremels are great tools, however its tedious.


Don't think I posted this one, but this a clutch return spring bracket. I got one more hole to drill then buy a longer bolt.



Went I assembled the transfer case and put the transmission and transfer case back together. I tapped and cleaned torqued everything I even bought another torque wrench a craftsman click style for $40 on sale. Torquing nuts to 170 isn't going to happen with the other one I got. Which only goes to 140.
Added grade 8 bolts to the cross member plus some lock nuts. The other bolts were looking pretty bad, and the nuts kept backing off to much vibration.



Put the bolts in the vice and run a die down them, then clean with a rag. I think I spent a couple of hours doing this. It was well worth it.

with everything together, transfer case shifts beautifully. It is amazing no more sticking, binding single stick linkage.
i'm almost drive-able again: I need to
Install a petronixs kit (should be here friday)
install the carb kit (again friday)
new master cylinder install, and bleed brakes (my old one has new seals but isn't holding pressure, leaking past main seal)
trim and modify transmission cover (I know I shouldn't have to do this but previous owner moved whole thing 1/2 inch over...)
weld bellcrank and re-drill, since I got the master cylinder out I should do this.
install passenger seat.
last and most important: I need to take better pictures, I have a good camera and yeah I use my phone.
I'm hoping this will be it, because I need to drive this for my next college semester. Not to mention I have to show my friend that jeeps are better at off-roading than Toyota trucks . Public transportation doesn't work as early as I need it too for two of the days.
I'm going to love bikini top, and a 40 min drive.

 

I never got the engine back in, between highschool, homework, and what ever i have to do at home, there isn't too much time to work on the jeep, i thought about doing it over winter break but its too cold. i decided today i'm gonna get my 3B running. Good luck with your jeep, it looks great!

 

congrats on getting the jeep running,


got some parts in the mail today, one day early. I love summit racing for that.


that master cylinder has a metal cap, that is so exciting. The plastic caps are the worst....

Made the brackets for the passenger seat the other night,
I'm using 1/4 plate and have a little left, thought I would post some stuff before I go out there.

i'm placing the 1/4plate under seat frame with a hole drill and a 2 inch bolt then drill another hole and tap it and throw a bolt in


lots of test fitting to make sure its right.



I realize as good as the spring clamps are use vice grips it won't move and you end up with one less hole to drill
learned a good trick to clamp a washer that is same size as drill bit, and this will help you get started. I have a hardened nail punch and it doesn't work very well. Even if I hit with BFH..


This is basically what each of the brackets look like when its all said and done, I did however change the design slightly for the front.


after cutting two of these plates with a dremel and having to cut them down again, I realized that the hack saw was faster. (im still shocked by this, cuts straighter too.)
added a little oil, to everything after ruining one drill bit, one tap, tap handle. The tap stuff was cheap, never should of bought it..



This is currently how the brackets sit, I have to cut one down then carefully cut the vinyl. As I said earlyier the front are slightly diffrent being that both holes are tapped, so it is easier to install and there is no nut. I realized after spending over an hour tapping one bolt that I was using my cheap tap. I found my good tap and did all three including holes in a half hour.






I switched to my camera again, and I will try and keep it that way.
Off to finish seat, and install the master cylinder, ignition.

 

Master Cylinder is installed, I have to adjust push rod I don't like how much play in brake pedal. At-least I can lock up the brakes again.

Petronixs ignition install:
Condenser is out, coil disconnected, and even battery. (I found out later battery was dead lol)


haha I never pulled a distributor before sense I was so entertained I provided a picture.


magnet part is installed.
Notch goes to square hole (check)





Carb rebuild, the part number I used out of the FSM was indeed correct
I'm going threw pictures and well I got so into the carb rebuild I forgot to take pictures... sorry


I noticed my choke stopped working, and it is due to over tightening the air cleaner. I took a file to choke plate and works nicely, got a new choke cable that I have to install too.

here is a video, of engine running with bad bad timing. It has sense been timed and runs better still have to tune the carb.


while test driving, my brake pedal wouldn't push down. the jeep did this once before, only when its in parking lots. (thats a good thing )
I realized my body was flexing to the point it was binding the brake pedal.

So to fix it I recall, that jeep used to use tires for body mounts. So the fun begins, jig saw its not the best way to cut tire.... Use a razor blade carefully, works better. I haven't found a good way to drill holes in the tire yet but I did okay.



cut and scribe with sharp metal object




the jeep feels allot better having the hickory blocks taken out, and two bolts and rubber pieces added were the jeep had non.


this is all the pictures I got at the moment, I still have allot to do... like finishing all the stuff I started lol. Got to change out a rubber line, its cracked to far now and it is at point I don't trust. Will try to get a video of jeep running good, might have to have the jeep offroad. Just waiting for recreational area to open up.

side question that I might post up in tech: leaf spring bushing one is shot, I will replace. However do you think this is enough to cause some bad road manners to point I refuse to drive faster than 35. its that or my ross box someone got more play in it when I took of steering wheel. I got 6-8 inches all the sudden after I installed new tie rods. Steering box is only component left in this mess. (I will double check bearings been year or two sense I have.)

 

Do you have the Death Wobble in your steering? Check all the pivot points for slop and wear, also the kingpin bearings and wheel bearings. Also, correct toe-in is very important to eliminating the wobble.

 

I sent you a PM.

 

I will check wheel bearings, and kingpin. I did adjust the ross box that helped allot, still not what it used to be. It will drive down road straight, then when the road gets uneven that is when it gets scary. it will jerk real quick, and I take foot off gas because its going to go the other way and start slowing down tell it behaves again.

I will track down tools to set the toe in better (I think its off by 3 degrees), all of the steering has been rebuilt or replaced except ross box.
pm replied too,





When I was replacing that rubber line today, I jacked up the car and some brake fluid leaked out of my drum I thought it was water and decided to check.
Come to find out the wheel cylinder is leaking, that explains the braking. I thought It was out of adjustment, guess not and the rubber hose was the wrong one.
Tuesday I should get wheel cylinders, and the correct front rubber hose. After this I will address alignment, and try something with my clutch. Making a grinding noise and will check clutch play before I pull the transmission out.

 

For some reason my front brake hose is 6 inches longer than what the factory hose should be. I ended up having a custom hose made which was only 8 dollars more than what flaps wanted, came to $30. When I throw a small lift on the jeep, and switch front axle I will go there for stainless braided hose. (local and affordable )

I checked clutch play, for the noise. I didn't find anything, I pulled the transmission thinking it was input bearing...
When I pulled front and rear bearing out of the t-14 they were just like how I put them in, So I put the transmission back together and will let dry for a couple days. I'm working hard to get rid of leaks 4th time is the charm right. I'm using different stuff, at least I managed to get front and rear outputs not to leak.

as for the noise I'm pretty sure its my pinion bearing in my dana 44, I jacked up the jeep and spun the yoke by hand, then the tires. It sounds like the noise... However, like someone suggested I will put my transmission back in and test without drive shafts before I pull my rear axle apart. I happen to have a set of good used pinion bearings laying on the bench so i'm crossing my fingers that this is the problem.

post isn't complete without a picture right

Crossing fingers for leak free transmission/transfer case, I swear it will be like winning the lotto lol


Once I get this noise taken care of I will go back to addressing the issue to my alignment.

 

Got my transmission in last week, so far no oil leaks. Checked no drive shafts then front drive shaft no noise. I didn't get a chance to test the rear but if there is no noise coming from transmission and transfer case with wheels jacked up on the front... i'm going to assume rear axle.

I picked up a snap on brake wrench to be able to bleed brakes, a power lock for the dana 27...

But...

I found the most amazing deal.
I managed to get a 2.5 inch lift, dana 30 axle, dana 44 axle with 11 inch drums all the way around for $20. It even has shocks too.

I'm going to have to figure out what i'm going to do, I still have to check the front axle for what gear ratio. (crossing fingers)
I checked
1 30 74 DANA 33220 A3D83 41-11 which I believe translates to 3.73

my camera is dead so no pictures will have some soon.


I got the new springs installed, I took a quick drive with only the front driveshaft attached it drives smoother. Must of been how shot my spring bushings were, they were pretty much nonexistant.

 

I decided to spend a few hours and toss the dana 30 under the front of my jeep,

this is what im starting with for the brakes,


I had to pull it apart most of the way before putting it back togeather, just to check some stuff.


Supringsly, I found out that who ever had this axle rebuilt it or something the wheel bearings and such were in really good shape.
I got two brakes hoses waiting for me at the parts store tomorrow,

I Just got seal up the diffrential, and figure out the tie rod situation..

I don't know if any one will know the answer to this question but I got all new tie rods on the dana 27 and going to switch the tie rod ends over.
I believe this will work but i'm not sure about the shorter tie rod on the dana 30? should I use the passenger tie rod assembly on the dana 27 because its shorter?


on a side note: I know I rushed this swap, and one of these days I shall take the axle out again. when I do I will paint it and do a few other things.


2.5 lift and dana 27 axle

2.5 lift and dana 30 axle

 

Nice! Sorry I totally forgot to take pics of the braket I built for this seats but the build is looking great! You might have to help me instal my pertronix when I get it.

 

thanks,
Its fine, it worked out the way I did it because I happened to have the metal and no access to a welder.

the petronix ignition is really easy to install, give me a call or a pm when you get it.

 

spent most of my spring break working on the jeep, I been trying to get it set up to go to the alignment shop, however my brakes disagree...

while trying to figure out the issue, I realized that I had to adjust pedal pushrod to proper length because I switched master cylinders. This should help with bleeding the brakes, but I broke a bleeder on my rear wheel cylinder before I could check it out. Being that I have 10 inch brakes I weighed my decisions and took this as a opportune time to have 11 inch brakes all the way around.

got the backing plates pulled off the donor axle, learned a lot how they work pulling that thing apart.


once again pull out the hub puller, I don't like this thing. I don't have anything big enough to turn that bolt so I have to very carefully step on the wrench and bounce on it to make it work..


this axle has such a weird configuration of shims and stuff to keep oil out of the drum..




checking to see where the holes need to be, and only two holes need to be drilled.
Also, a quick test fit.



To drill the holes I took the thickest shim, which is about 3/16 thick. and bolted it to the back plate so it wouldn't move.



I used a step bit from harbor freight, and very carefully drilled the hole.Then flipped it over drilled the other side and it was even and right size.


looks good to me.






bolted up and ready for the new wheel cylinders, which I found out I had to return because it had a crack in the boot. That is the second one in a week that I got that was defective..



To seperate the old hub from the drum, I put a lug nut on and hit it with the biggest hammer I could find. (which happened to be an axe)


put the drum on to keep rain out. The weather has been off and on all day long.


still got other side to do, and I got to figure out if the new hub has to be pressed on.

Then I shall go for another round of bleeding brakes and will hopefully be able to get the jeep to the alignment shop.

 

got the brakes on everything works great, its so much better. I did replace the mounting hardware to new adjusters and such the picture shows the old stuff on...

I got new leaf spring bushings installed, is such a pain to do... Hack saw with a new blade is a must, and a small torch makes things easy.



I use a shaft out of a t-14 transmission to hit the bushing out while its still on fire, use the big hammer. Everything will come out clean, assuming you heated bushing for the metal insert to slip right out.


hack saw and then cold press chisel..


after I did the front bushing the jeep is a lot more stable still haven't got alignment done.
The shop I went too, wouldn't let me talk to the tech.. Also told me they don't want to do my alignment because I got mismatched tires, they are older.
I understand the older tires thing, but the mismatched tires I think is a lame excuse. You get all the hot rods and muscle cars running mismatched tires...
I got two of the same tires up front and I want front alignment done. I will go somewhere else for alignment after that,I did get my print out of my caster. I didn't like how I had to sit there and keep asking the guy hey what causes my camber to be off in the rear, etc.


I also started tracking down noises, because the shop told me my jeep was too loud...
So, I fixed the exhaust leak, and noticed my water pump was going out.

exhaust leak was a pain, it turned out to be the heat riser lost its bushing and and to drill out a two bolts..




I fixed the heat riser by tapping in a steel spacer that I got at the hardware store, then wired it open with a cotter pin.


I will add more later, like new castor shims, mounted cb, and working on timing chain. I will use my camera, I charged batteries and found it.

 

I had to take a dremel to the spring bolts the one ones at the flaps the head was too big. Also took out the very bottom leave and the front suspension feels better but I will find out when I drive it.

jeep flexed out, I maxed out the jack and measured three inches to go before the tire touches fender.


Timing chain:



I been having nothing but trouble with this timing chain, starts out as simple water pump change. then I had to take timing cover off to get water pump and broke said timing cover. I found out that my timing chain was way over due, and with new timing cover that im still working on will get a oil pump rebuild kit. the coolent intake on intake manifold was pain and broke a bolt and this had to be drilled and tapped...


this coolent passway is really rusty, however looking into the block passageway from the timing cover its clean and spotless. I did have radiator removed at one point so this could of been my doing...

 

Got the timing chain on, however first time it didn't line up.


Got it lined up second time, however I thought I could get the tensioners on but I was wrong.


I pulled the chain on and off about three times before getting it right. Better safe than sorry right.

Oil pump cover of my orginal timing cover, i'm going to clean this one up.




Got the timing cover pin fell out, got it nice and hot and pin in freezer.





More tomorrow, im so close waiting on the eccentric and got to pick up some new bolts and pack the pump full of jelly.

 

This was taken on my first attempt to get out of lakecounty and bring jeep to Sacramento. She was running good except for the fact I loose third gear and temp was jumping up to 240... I turned around I decided it was unacceptable. I did get lots of waves and honks from cars coming other way

Taking picture while driving is difficult I was afraid of droping phone, jeep goes down road nicely. I will get some issues during rough patches of road, but between not having front shocks, alignment slightly off, and ross box that needs to go. I do trust at 65 though, just not on a turn.





Having temps at 240 I decided that the poor pinto radiator wasn't up to par, Got a new mustang radiator from reliable radiator. I was hoping to fix temp issue and issue of loosing third gear. I fixed temp issue with radiator but not loosing third gear.. temp never goes above 205
I had to get radiator re-welded for $40 so I could get a hose on bottom of radiator. Sorry no pictures at this time.






try number one





I will try and get some better pictures but it will be a month,



So if anyone feels like giving a comment on this,


I'm thinking this is to close to exhaust, my original fuel pump had a built in elbow. The new pump is in metric fitting and straight could not find one but I think fuel line heating up could be causing the jeep accelerate fine but once I maintain a speed of 50 for a min carb sputters, I slow down and then down shift then drive for min. All is fine, the temp of engine is 200 degrees. Jeep did 65 to (speed confirmed by friend in another car that I was about to pass), and held it but then carb started sputting started and yeah. took a bit for jeep to catch up again. It only does in third gear, I floored it and first and second refuse to do it.

that fuel line hose is not protected by shield I feel a big difference in heat with hand, I believe I should double check float too.


Any mounting ideas for this fan too?

 

i just mounted one just like that i used flat stock to span the mounting holes in the rad and nuts and bolts on the fans through those flats.

 

Wait wrong forum.

 

I got good laugh on the wrong forum post,

Thanks Sterlclan, I will see about going to hardware store some time and seeing if I can find a bolt that might work.