dauntless,less

Well i finally got the 225 out, I have a 355 to go in. Now its just a waiting game for parts. I did learn that the front clip on a 67 cj only has one main bolt holding the front end up. I have to shorten my radiator inlet by quite a bit to fit the v8 in and fpr a bigger radiator. My question is to anyone that had done or seen a v8 swap, does anyone know what radiator will fit. I will have to fabricate mounts and it will probally have to be wider than the origional. I just havent had time to brouse around salvage yards with a tape measure yet. Thanks for any help

 

I had mine custom built. The shop used Chevy Chevette tanks and put a 3 row "maxi cool" core in it. It's got twice as many fins as a normal radiator. Keeps my 283 nice and cool and cost something like $140. Using a wider radiator won't gain you much, if anything since air can only come in through the grille. My radiator actually sits on the front crossmember. I fabbed up an "L" bracket to hold the top of the radiator to the grille. I wish I had a pic of it... Hold your hand out palm down. Curl your fingers so they point at the floor. The radiator goes under the palm of your hand. Your fingers keep it from falling backwards into the fan. The piece is bolted to whats left of the original radiator inlet right about where your wrist is. I hope that helped...just don't drill holes in your wrist to test the theory. I cut the radiator inlet off just rearward of the front of the fresh air intake for the heater (the big round hole in the side of the inlet). There's only about a 1/2" left of it visible on mine now. I cut mine with a sawsall and just went really slow. I put some U channel trim stuff (the stuff you see on the ends of car doors) on it to cover the cut edge. You'll need to run a short water pump on the Chevy. Just order one for something like a '61 Chevy with a 283 and you should get the right thing. I'm running a 15" fan on the water pump and a 14" electric pusher fan on the front of the radiator (thermostatically controlled). It took some engineering and trial and error, but works good now.

 

I was planning on taking thw whole inlet for the radiator off the front end. I have accass to all sorts of metal and tools I had planned on putting the radiator only about an inch from the grill. I can do this by using angle steel from the frame flat edge facing up to mount the front end too eliminating that one bolt design. I would hav effectively bolted both sides of the front end to the frame.I have a friend that used a cj7 radiator in his willys, but a little bit of it sets behind the headlight buckets(only about an inch. The problem with using one like his is he has a 304 which has water outlet on drivers side and mine is on the passenger side. Thanks for the input, it is something to think about if my plan doesnt come together like I plan.

 

so what will you be asking for the old 225? will it be up for sale?
thanks.
I have a buick 350 that I am throwing in on my cj5. Please keep us informed on how your radiator plans go. Because I will need to do the same thing.
thanks
brendan

 

it is up for sale on the classifeild adds. complete. check it out and let me know if you are interested.

 

We used the Chevette tanks so the water pump inlet was on the right side of the Jeep. I don't know if I'd want the radiator that close to the grille. There's no way you could ever put an electric fan on the front of it if you wanted to. It'll be kinda vulnerable too. I've heard that guys who only run an electric on the engine side of the radiator have cooling problems. A mechanical fan has no choice but to turn. My electric only comes on when I'm sitting in traffic. I don't think you'll even need the radiator that far forward. My engine mounted fan is about 2 inches from the radiator and the distributor clears the firewall by about 2 inches also. That reminds me of another good point...you won't be able to fit the stock GM HEI distributor. You'll need either a points style or an aftermarket. I have an ACCEL "Billetproof." It's fantastic...adjustable everything and it's electronic. Back on track, if you put the radiator that far forward, the bottom of the radiator will be in front of the crossmember and you could have interference problems with lower radiator hose. Again, just some more of my thoughts/experiences. Good luck with the project...it'll be fun when it's all finished

 

I am using a stock hei gm distribuitor with accell coil. I have started a cutout firewall to allow for the clearance. I really like the factory hei with a curve kit for the high perf. motor. They are almost completely problem free and self contained. I know I am sounding like a hard head, just have plans on doing some things a certain way to make my jeep just the way I want it. I will send pics as certain obstacles are overcome so others might be able to use a few of my ideas, or decide to do otherwise without trial and error.Thanks fo rhte advice, I will keep it in mind. Do you have any pics of how the radiator turned out. As for pusher vs. puller fan, I dont think there are any real advantages either way if you only use electric, I will use a pusher on the front and a flex fan from the rear. The pusher will just be for extreme conditions like sand running. Thanks