Right turn signal not working

In those pictures the sockets look like they have been painted. Could be mistaken.
If so, that is your problem.

And are you using LED lights front and rear or just in the rear? If just in the rear, that might be enough to make the flasher work.

 

The sockets have not been painted, just LEDs in the rear.

 

I bought a test light.

I clipped the yellow and white wire together, turn key to on postion, measured 11.9V on one of the pins in the socket, put in a know good 1157A bulb, does not light. With power on and bulb in, I clipped the test light to the negative terminal of the battery and touched the probe to a bare stop on grill, light comes on. Touched the probe to bulb housing, light comes on. Touched the probe to bulb brass, light comes on.

Readng your post, this sounds like no ground between the grille and battery negative (bad ground to the body frame?). Thinking about next move...?

 

The battery negative is connected to chassis of the Jeep, don't you always read continity from the battery negative to any spot on the metal body?

 

The test light being "ON" is telling you the grille is above ground. Temporarily connect a wire from the battery negative and a bare spot on the grille and your front light will come on.

 

In this case where you are using the test light, you are proving that the grille is at a 12v potential above the negative terminal of the battery.
While you are at it, I would connect the test light clip to the negative post of the battery and put the probe on a clean metal spot on the fender with power to the front light as before and see if the test light comes on. If it does then the fender is also above ground (not good).
Then put the test probe on the frame. Anything metal that is not supposed to be battery hot should be considered ground potential.

 

Two things I do not know what above ground means and I temporarily connected a wire from the battery negative and a bare spot on the grille and the front light did not come on (power applied).

Sorry must have posting as you were posting...did not see answer.

 

I have read continity (light on) from the negative terminal to the fender and frame. Not sure what this all means...

 

I think that the term above ground means that, a part is "hot." Meaning that there is some amount of current flowing through that part, be it a grill, fender, or a hot terminal on the ignition switch. It is not a ground or, a grounded part. Grills and fenders should not be hot, should not have current running through them. How about clipping a jumper wire from the light housing to the frame. I'm just curious if the light would light up then.

 

I think you are confusing continuity with a powered element. Just because there is a continuity reading does not mean there should be current running through something. A test light shows that something has current to it. If it has current then it obviously has continuity. But something can have continuity with out having power to it. Cut a piece of wire off the roll. It will have continuity shown on a volt meter but it will not light up a test light because ther is no power to it.

 

My test light (continuity tester) will light up on a piece of wire, I guess the batteries inside the tester send power to the wire to be recived by the other side.

Not sure where to go from here...

 

Ooohhhh. That's a different animal than I am used to. I use a multi meter to test continuity and, an un-powered test light to check if there is current to something. I've never used a tool such as the one you describe.

 

I am using a continuity tester that uses two AAA batteries and has light on it, when you clip the wire end to a metal spoon and touch the handle of the spoon with the probe end, the light comes on. Is the wrong tool for the job?

WC is this the tool I should be using?

 

NO! That is where the confusion

This is what you should be using.

 

This device has no batteries. It has a 12V bulb only and you can screw it apart to change bulb when needed.

 

I feel like an idiot, thanks for your patience, I will get one of those and perform your test again...

 

Don't feel like that, sometime unknowing is a blessing. Makes some people more cautious. Not to worry tho because we will get this worked out and you will have everything back to normal.

 

OK I bought a test light. I read 11.8V in the front light sockets with my multimeter. Tested light socket with test light using same pin that had voltage, test light does not light. Verified test light using battery.

 

Do you have the test light alligator clip to the battery negative or somewhere else?

 

Clipped to a unpainted bolt on the grille.