Static timing, using nothing but a 12v test light

Some will find this useful (points distributors) others interesting but not useful (electronic distributors).

The first step is to move your crankshaft to factory specs, (5 degrees BTDC for a 225 V6). I highlight the timing marks with a whiteout marker. Most move the crank using a socket and ratchet on the crank nut but I find it easiest to put the tranny in the highest gear and rock the Jeep while I watch the timing marks. It doesn’t take any effort to move the Jeep and there is no need to crawl under it as well. If you go beyond the timing mark make sure you go all the way back and come at it again to account for the slack in the timing chain.



Next loosen the lockdown bolt so the distributor moves freely. Remove the cap and the low tension lead from the distributor. Attach a 12v test light tip to the end of the low tension lead and the other end to something hot.

It’s hard to see in the daylight but with the crank in the correct position the test light is on.



Hold the rotor clockwise and rotate the distributor clockwise “just” until the light goes out. That’s it, tighten down the lockdown bolt and your done. Doesn’t get any easier then that.

Hope this helps.

 

Ha!

I used to time my VW ('66 Squareback, not the current one) that way. Shown here: http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswag...3101/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317654846&sr=8-1

 

thanks!

 

Your welcome.

Also, I'd like to thank Chuck (Warloch) for hand delivering to me the vacuum advance canister which I mounted on the distributor. Works great!

 

very cool indeed!!

 

Actually, you don't even need the test light.
You can simply turn the key to the on position.
Pull the coil wire and hold it about 1/4 inch from the block.
Keep the distributor connected and rotate it.
When the coil wire sparks, lock the distributor down.
Recheck to insure your #1 plug wire is under the rotor and your off.

 

When you rotate the distributor, the light should go off?

I have the test light hooked to the battery, and the other end is through the negative wire, unhooked from the coil. When I rotate the distributor and hold the rotor, the test light doesn't even seem to flicker.

Thoughts?

 

With the points closed, the light should be lit. When the points open, the light should go out.
If your light never does turn on with the points closed, you may need a new set of points.

Don

 

thinking about prior experience here, don't stand on a wet slab, with wet hands, highly suggest plastic plug pliers rs made for holding hot wires... I'm sure degraded wires don't play in either...

yeouch

 

With the points closed, the light should be lit. When the points open, the light should go out.
If your light never does turn on with the points closed, you may need a new set of points.

Don
I'm not sure this is correct, if the points are closed, the circuit is grounded, so no power to the light.
It depends on where you hook the other end of the test light to.

 

Figured it out, mostly, and cooked my test light.

 

A buzzer works real good for this. Then you are not trying to look in two different places at once to do your timing.

 

[/QUOTE]Don
I'm not sure this is correct, if the points are closed, the circuit is grounded, so no power to the light.
It depends on where you hook the other end of the test light to.[/QUOTE]

Generally folks will connect one side of the test light to the battery, thus the other lead gets connected to the wire from points to coil. When the points are closed the points provide the path to ground and the light is on.

Don

 

Don
I'm not sure this is correct, if the points are closed, the circuit is grounded, so no power to the light.
It depends on where you hook the other end of the test light to.[/QUOTE]

Generally folks will connect one side of the test light to the battery, thus the other lead gets connected to the wire from points to coil. When the points are closed the points provide the path to ground and the light is on.

Don[/QUOTE]

I normally clip the wire end to a ground, I'm usually testing for power to lights and things like that.

Anyway, when the points are closed the light will turn on or go out however you wire it up, you're still looking for the place where the points make contact.