Is a Saginaw box a Saginaw box etc??

Ok, so I've got a good start on collecting the parts needed to do the Saginaw steering swap. I've got a column from and early DJ-5 on the way, the tie rods ordered from Herm and I scored a manual Saginaw box off eBay. The steering box just arrived.

My question is this: Do all of the Saginaw boxes have the same mounting bolt pattern? Mine is from a '72-'86 CJ, manual steering. The mounting plate is still on the box, but it looks like it isn't going to be even close to lining up with the frame on my '2A. Will any of the aftermarket mounting plates like the AA kit or others bolt up, or are they sesigned for the GM-style box?

Also, opinions welcome on the idea of just fabbing up my own bracket to mount the box to the frame. Once I have it boxed, I am planning to put crush-sleeves inside the frame, and bolt my homebrew mount to this. Then possibly put a 4-6" wide flat plate across the top of both front frame horns for strength. Sort of similar to what the late '70s Jeeps had. This might actually double as a future mounting plate for a light-duty electric winch.

Idears, fellas?

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/steering/saginaw/saginaw.shtml

 

A plate between the frame rails is a good idea Steve. I installed one; mine is about 11" deep and consists of 3/8" armor steel It's notched for the power steering lines and has a 2" hole for the box adjustment screw, much like the later plates. My tow hooks are bolted through both this plate and the frame.

I think the use of a plate up front between the rails is an important addition when going to a saginaw box.

Don't ever try to flame cut 3/8" armor steel with an oxy-acetylene torch unless you have alot of time on your hands

 

Thanks for the input Lynn.

Yeah, I looked at the rather lightweight frame rails on the '2A and decided that it was the right thing to do.

Guess the armor-plate just crawled out of the dumpster at werk and followed you home....right?

 

Ok, one more question:

Looking at the shaft coming out of the rear of the Saginaw box, it is splined. Looks like about a 4" shaft, 36 splines. The connecting shaft I have is from a Grand Wagoneer, it has a flat flange on it to use a 'soft' disc coupler to connect to the box. Can I get away with just using a matching flange for the CJ box to mate up to this shaft, or do I *have* to have the $pud shaft from AA to make it work?

What is the actual purpose of the spud shaft? Is it just to make up for a shorter input shaft on some steering boxes?

The only issue I could see if using the disc coupler is that the clearance to the front crossmember might be tight. Hard to tell until I get a mounting bracket and lay it all out....