4" suspension lift?

Anybody running a 4" suspension lift? Happy with it? I'm still bending in the right rear fender with the 33". The springs are sagging and I've decided I'm getting a new lift. I like the idea of one lift doing what I need instead of a 2 1/2" and shackles and body lifts, etc.... I really like the BDS 2 1/2, but the site said it would only clear 31".

Pros and Cons would be great.

Sorry for bringing this up again Sparky, just never got the info I was hoping for in the past.

Thanks guys.

 

I like to know too, I order a 4" lift for 74.

 

I ran a superlift 4" with a shackles (1-1.5") with 35" superswmper TSL/SX. It worked well I only rubbed slightly when crossed up. I now run stock springs with the shackles and have 33" BFG AT's. I rub alittle (rear fenderwell/the tub) when crossed up.

I think 33" tires and 2.5" lift would work good. I am going to 31" tires this weekend and I may take the shackles off depends on how it looks and if need them due to rubbing.

I hope this helps. I bet if you was to go with a 2.5" spring lift -OR- go with a shackle lift the rubbing on the rear fender will go away. If your springs are sagging....the I would definitely go with the spring lift.

Good luck

Tim

 

I don't have that kind of lift, but I've always heard that drive shaft angles would be a problem, especially with larger transmissions such as the T18.

Any thoughts?

Eric.

 

I dropped the transfer case 1/2-1". Don't remember which. I didn't have any vibration and the u-joints seemed to do fine.

 

I have 4" Superlift spirings on my A1 with 33" Goodyear MT/R's. Though I haven't driven it yet (or fully assembled it yet), it really looks like the rear tires are going to do some rubbing when flexed.

 

Is your steering stock, or converted to Sagi?

My opinion - that's the limiting factor. The stock Ross set-up will have a tough time with 4" of lift. Not to mention the rear drive shaft will have a heck of an angle, even with a 3spd.

I'm sure it *can* be done, and that it *has* been done. Me?- I'll stick with nothing more than 3"...

 

I'm using a Skyjacker Soft Ride 4" suspension with 33's on 10" wide rims. I wound up trimming a little sheetmetal off the rear fenders. I then went with about a 2" body lift and I could easily clear 35s. I don't think a 2.5" lift will clear 33s without some rubbing. Rember, when you flex the rear axle, the side you're stuffing moves to the rear as it comes up so usually it's that back corner of the fender that rubs (or folds up). You can kinda see in the photo where I trimmed the back of the fender.

 

By the way, the other Jeep in the picture is running 9.50 x 33" with a 2.5" lift and doesn't rub anything. So, I guess it all depends on the tire/wheel combo.

 

One of the guys I wheel with has a 4" on a CJ6. He runs 35"s. He did some fender trimming due to rub.
If the spring pack is sagging look into a 3" and use the shackles you have.
You can always put a axle snubber on if the rub is to bad.

 

Pat: I remembered we talked about this a while ago. That's just plain wierd. :?

Like I said, I run a 2.5" Pro Comp springs with 1.5" extended shackles, for a total lift of about 3.25". No body lift with 33x12.5 BFG MT's. Only rub I have is the "high" lugs of the front tires on the front spring wraps and minor rubbing on the inside of the rear wheel well.

Transfer case is lowered about 1"+, and the rear axel is shimed by what looks like a 3* shim.

 

Thanks guys.

The trans now is a M21 Muncie, but I gotta SM420 comin', so not really sure how that'll play out with the driveshaft angle.

I forgot to mention it only rubs on the right rear. Maybe if I just replace the springs with the same size lift it'll work. That would be easy if I knew what size lift I've got.

 

Yes, does have the Saginaw.

 

Get a Tom Woods CV shaft.