Axle Questions

I have a 59 CJ5 that i need to rebuild both axles. What is the best source to get a master rebuild kit from? Keep in mind I am trying to pinch all the pennys I can. This jeep is all stock.

 

What do you mean by rebuild? Setting up axle gears is beyond the capability of most everyone but the pros.

If your axles are broken, you're better off to find some complete used replacements. Axles for a '59 are not in high demand, and should be fairly inexpensive.

 

am looking for a kit that includes all bearings and races, plus all seals along with the shim packs. Nothing is "broke" and none of the bearings are out yet, but someone has removed the drain plugs on both axels and the insides looks like it has been along time since they last saw oil in them.

 

You probably don't need to do a full rebuild, which requires complete disassembly. On the front axle, replace the output seal, king pins, wheel bearings, and knuckle seals. On the rear axle, you may not need to do anything but you could replace the outer axle bearings and seals if you want to. All of those parts are readily available at any of the standard suppliers.

The complete rebuild kits are pricey as they include new gears and everything but, as timgr said, a complete rebuild is quite involved. Check out my blog (see signature line) for details on the front axle seals, bearings, and king pins.

 

i got the kingpin bearings and races from napa. the axle shaft u-joints and wheel bearings can be found at any auto parts store. the front knuckle seals and pinion seals can be found at any of the jeep parts suppliers. both of the diffs on my axles were in very good shape so i dont know where parts are available.

 

I can't offer any advice on parts, but I can sympathize with your situation.

I've got an offset D44 rear axle (operational, as far as I know - never drove it, though) and the case, carrier, ring and pinion (ring and pinion are junk) for a front D27 that I got as extra parts in a deal - both have 5.38 gears from what I was told. I haven't looked inside the D44, but it looks to still be in good, operable shape - the D27's pinion came loose and went further into the diff. than it was supposed to, and kinda chewed up some gear teeth, etc., but a few of those parts might still be good. I was thinking about keeping them just in case I wanted them for some kind of Jeep-ish project buggy, but PM me if you're interested.

 

And what do you know! You're from western MO - where at, exactly?

 

Call Randy's Ring and Pinion ( 1-800-292-1031) unless there is someone closer to you. That said, if you plan on replacing the carrier bearings, you'd be better off having a shop do the work. A proper bearing puller will run you several hundred dollars and you would need at least a 12 ton press to install the new bearings. Add to that a good dial indicator to check backlash...........Or you can just replace the seals, put oil in the axles and run it. Change the oil after a few hundred miles and drive it until something breaks. On the front axle the kingpins are easy to replace as well as the knuckle seal. The inner axle seals can be difficult without the proper tools (but not impossible) and you'll have to remove the carrier to get at them. That's not a big deal in itself and you don't need any special tools except the seal install tool. I made my own.

 

Alex, nice to hear from someone else from Missouri. I live just East of Nevada. I think I will pull the rear end out of it and see just what the thing needs. It drives fine but I know something will break if I keep driving it.

 

Not necessarily, those things are tougher than you think. If you put oil in them and drive it without hearing any odd noises and do not have any leaks then change the oil after a few hundred miles and check for metal. No metal, no noises, and no leaks and you are golden.

 

:iagree:

 

Really! I was just in Nevada about a month ago. My girlfriend's going to college there in a couple years - we'll have to get together sometime.

While I don't have much hands-on experience with diffs., I agree with the others. If there's nothing except a little rust/dirt noticeably wrong with them, a few small parts, a fluid change (or two, as noted by the others) and a good inspection may be all they need. I think one or both would start making noise and giving other warning signs a while before they went out - if they did at all - so you'd have warning and could act accordingly.