new leaking proportioning valve

Hi guys. I searched the forum and couldn't find exactly the answer. Long story short. Just finished frame up restoration on my 75 cj-5. Has discs on the D30 from an 83 I did before the restriginal drums on the back. Grabbed the proportioning valve from an 83 at the time also, which leaked from the valve the entire time I made the changeover. (small rubber cover on the front where the pin protrudes). Ordered a new one from Morris in April of last year to install durring the build. Of course builds take time and only finished installing and road testing about a month ago. The new valve weeps in the same exact place and I think is letting air in! I Have to bleed the brakes every couple of days of use and cant find any oither leaks. Made all new lines and reman MC during the build so nothing else I can see. My rear breaks also lock up way before the front. However I can lock up the fronts first by going backwards and slamming them on, so the rear locking is mostly due to weight shift and not to far off I think.
Finally my questions!
#1.Anyone else get a bad valve from morris? I doubt they will return or replace now due to the time lapse, although I haven't called them yet.
#2 Since I may need an adjustable valve anyway I read some posts where guys have hooked up the fronts directly from the MC and used just the adjustable aftermarket valve for the rears. And others who spliced one in to the rear line off the MC. And others who spliced behind the outlet to the rears from the proportioning valve. Which is the best. Any opinions since brakes are a pain and I want to do it right only one more time.

 

I'm one of the guys that run a line directly from the front chamber of the master cylinder to my front discs and used an adjustable valve plumbed into the rear line going to the rear drums. I fought the same fight your having, the rears would lock up before the fronts even with the adjustable valve turned to it's lowest setting. I tried a bone yard prop valve and even ordered a new one from Master Brake with the same results. Out of frustration I ditched the prop valve and ran direct lines with the adjustable valve in the rear and problem solved. I have since switched to rear disc with the same brake line set up and they work better yet.

 

Thank You for the input. It's allways a pain to redue something, especially brakes, but at least now I know what should work. Thanks again.