78 CJ5 build

Now that the weather here in Illinois has finally started to cooperate some, I am starting on my 78 CJ5. I spent most of last fall tearing it down to the tub and I got the tub off yesterday. I will try to post pictures as I go along with my restoration. Here's what I'd like to do now while I try to save up enough money to get a new tub:

1. Inspect and paint axles. Not really sure what to look for as far as the condition of the axles any help would be appreciated.
2. Prep and paint frame with Eastwood rust encapsulator, epoxy primer, and chassis paint.
3. Paint inside of frame with Eastwood interior frame paint.
4. Replace two rear crossmembers as I think they are beyond saving.
5. Prep and paint engine, transmission, and transfer case.
6. Anything else you guys can think of that I should do while the frame is exposed.

Here's what I've found so far:
The good:
1. Frame rails and body mounts are in good shape.
2. The police chief who used to run a four wheel drive shop came by to help me take off the body and told me that the Saginaw manual box feels nice and tight.
3. Shock and spring mounts are good.

The bad:
1. The above mentioned two rear crossmembers are pretty well rusted out around the holes for the body mounts.
2. Previous owner attempted to reinforce the factory hitch by welding a bunch of angle iron to the frame and rear cross member. So it is going to take some grinding to get that off.

The ugly:
1. Frame is full of acorn shells, dang boxed frames!

 

Here are the photos I took today, the tarp is covering the enigne and transmission since it has been raining a lot here lately:






Driver side of crossmember over gas tank showing rust around body mount hole.


Passenger side of crossmember over gas tank showing rust around body mount hole.


Passenger side of rear crossmember showing rust around body mount hole.


Back of frame showing factory hitch and part of the crappy reinforcements.

More to follow!

 

Very interesting , keep us up to date on the build.

 

For the rear I would inspect the wheel bearings and replace if needed, replace all oil seals as well. Do the same for the front along with ball joints. I would take pics of the fuel, brake line and retaining clips before you remove them try to keep them intact for reference when you bend new lines.

What is your intended use for the Jeep after the rebuild?

 

Thanks for the info about what to look for with my axles Chuck. After the rebuild I plan to use the Jeep as my daily driver during the nice months and I'll also be using it for search and rescue operations for the county when neccesary.

 

Update

I pulled the transmission and transfer case today. Not an easy job by yourself (at least not for me). THe instructions in the FSM were for removing the transmission and transfer case from underneath rather than from above with the body off. In hindsight I would have tried to remove the transmission and transfer case from the crossmember/skid plate first rather than getting it all out from between the frame rails as one piece.

No pictures right now since my camera batteries are dead, but I found that the crossmember had been removed before. They must have snapped two of the bolts because there are two small square holes torched in the frame where they put nuts inside the frame for th crossmember bolts that they snapped and drilled. I snapped two off the other side but I'm going to try and drill and tap them rather than what was done before.

 

Here's the holes that they cut to put the nuts inside the frame:



Here's the transmission, transfer case, and skid plate:

 

Small update.

I took the bellhousing and clutch off a few days ago. I took the flywheel and the pilot bushing off today. I've got the exhaust and fuel lines disconnected so now the engine is ready to come out. Went and picked up a shop crane from a buddy so I will probably pull the engine tomorrow. Tonight I'm letting the motor mount bolts soak with PB Blaster snd I will spray some more on tomorrow so hopefully I won't break any bolts. I also sprayed every bolt and screw left in the frame since I don't want to break any off. Three of my four shock nuts are free so I don't think I'll have any trouble with them. Hopefully the spring bolts will be the same. I'll probably take a torch to them if they still won't come loose. I will get some more pictures once the motor's out.

Almost forgot, my buddy also had a brand new NOS Borg-Warner transmission mount for my transmission and the correct alignment tool for the clutch so I'll hopefully have no problems when I go to reassemble it all.

 

When you get ready to replace the rear crossmember there's a guy on the CJ8 forum selling heavy duty versions. They're 3/16" laser cut steel with the exact dimensions and holes of the original, but the original and the typical Omix replacements are super thin gauge sheet metal. These things are beefy! I got one for my Scrambler and it fit like a glove. He's selling them well worth the money, I think $100 plus shipping. Here's his post on CJ8.com: http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21906&highlight=rear+crossmember

 

Thanks Matt. I was going to get the one that Classic Enterprises sells, but if these are as sturdy as you say I will get one of those. I wasn't really impressed about the thin sheetmetal AMC used for the rear crossmember. Now if I could only find a replacement for the one over the gas tank I'd be in good shape. I think I my have to end up trying to repair mine if I can.

 

Well here it is without the engine:



Here's the engine in my garage, I'll be running out to get an engine stand hopefully tonight or tomorrow:



Next step will be taking all the brake and fuel lines off followed by the gas tank and axles, then I'll be ready to prep and paint.

 

Well I went out and bought an engine stand at Harbor Freight. The quality looks OK but I did have to file one small burr out of one of the holes so I could assemble it. I mounted the engine with grade 8 bolts so I should be able to start working on my engine when I get ready to.

 

The weather has been cold again here lately so I decided to tear up something else than the chassis for a while. I took the alternator, air pump, and fan and the brackets off as well as the intake and exhaust manifolds.




Here's the manifolds, I'm going out to get a paint gun tomorrow so hopefully I can get these and the rest of the engine painted. Then I'll also be able to paint my frame, transmission and axles once it warms up again.


Here's the manifold gasket. I think that this is a replacement since the FSM says there's only a gasket on the intake manifold and not both like this one. Fortunately since it had been replaced all of the manifold bolts came out with no trouble and I didn't even have to break out the torch.


I took this picture of the front of the head. The small hole on the left I think originally had a stud that someone broke off. Can anyone confirm this and if so is it replaceable?

 

Yes, there was a bolt there. You'll have to drill it and use an easy-out to remove what's left of the bolt. The previous gasket mechanic broke it and did not replace it. The manifold will leak if you don't fix it.

Broken bolts have been covered a lot in the past here. Take a look through old posts for some suggestions.

It's helpful to put a stud in the most-forward and most-rearward holes. This will make installation of the manifolds much easier. The rest can use bolts.

 

Thats what i thought Tim. The FSM shows a stud in that hold and a bolt in the most rear hole. The bolt was fine but the stud as you can see is broken. I think my local farm and home store sells studs so I guess I will be spending some time with the easy out trying to get it out. Do you think it would be easier to try and drill it on the block or should I take the head out and try to drill it with my drill press so I can get the drill centered better?

 

Well, if you are going to take the head off, your local automotive machine shop will make quick work of the broken bolt. That will certainly be easier.

I have removed a few broken bolts, but I'm reluctant to be authoritative. A search turns up a lot of discussion - http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&q=remove+broken+exhaust+manifold+bolt&fp=158f5021afbf0802

If you use a bolt extractor, do not break it off in the bolt. Breaking the hardened extractor off in the hole you drill is likely the worst possible outcome. Have patience - drill out a little, apply some heat and penetrant, try the easy-out, drill a little more, more heat, etc.

Left-handed bits are helpful.

Don't drill too deep or off-center.

 

That's a pretty stout looking engine stand from HF. Great project, looking forward to seeing more! Good luck with the stud removal, be sure to take pics and post the process, I'm always looking for ideas for when I hit the same problem!

 

Tim I have some left handed bolt extractors somewhere if I can find them. They were my dads. I am going to pull the head off. I figure after 30 years its probably ready for new valve seats, since every other vehicle I had needed them.

benmack1

The engine stand was only $109 on sale. I was pretty impressed with the strength when I put it together. Plus it folds for storage, since as you can see I don't have a whole lot of room in my Jeep garage.

 

If you are going to have work done on the head, I would recommend letting the shop remove the broken bolt. The charge should be modest when combined with the head work.

 

Thanks for the advice Tim I think I will just let them do it.