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Jeep T-18

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by frankhayden, Jan 30, 2011.

  1. frankhayden

    frankhayden New Member

    I picked up a Jeep t-18 this weekend, Its the 4.02 first gear model and out of a 76 CJ. Im planning to install it in my 84 CJ7 in place of the T-5 and would like to keep my dana 300. The tranny has an adapter on it but its for the model 20tc. What are my options, to buy a model 20 TC or spend $492 on an adapter from Novak to bolt up my model 300 ? Thanks for any info.
     
  2. aallison

    aallison 74 cj6, 76 cj5. Has anyone seen my screwdriver?

    I have a jeep T18 out of a 79cj so it's got the 6.32 first. As far as I konw, and I've looked, is you need the adapter from someone.

    If someone knows different, I want to hear it with you........
     
  3. Sparky74cj

    Sparky74cj Member

    I did a 4 speed in a 74 I had. Every "Jeep" 4 speed I went and looked at turned out to be a 4-1.. I found rarely any were 6-1..
    I ended up using a T19 5-1 and loved it!!!!
    You need the adapter! Novak or Advanced have them... You should be able to pedal that D20 adapter for a couple hundred. We have a swap meet coming up soon on your side of the state.
    If you need any input shafts or gears! I have a big box load for T18!
     
  4. roadhog304

    roadhog304 Member

    you could try and find a scout dana 300 to use on the tranny. same bolt pattern as a dana 20 they are scarece but you can find them. then sell your dana 3oo and tranny together to re coop the cost of the scout case. or just buy a dana 20. you will loose a bit of gear ratio but would be alot cheaper than finding an adaptor or scout dana 300
     
  5. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    <not relevant>
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
  6. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    You have a couple of choices if you want to keep your 300. Buy the adapter kit and convert, find a Scout 2 300 IF you can find one in good shape (only used 79 1/2 and 1980).
    If you want the lower first gear and want a wide ratio (6.32-1) find a Ford 2 wheel drive T-18, buy the adapter, and have the best of both worlds. Sell the close ratio CJ t-18 to fund the rest of the project. With drilling and tapping a couple of holes in your bellhousing the Ford T-18 will bolt right up. You will need to change the pilot bushing and possibly the clutch disc, don't remember right now. Regardless which way you go there will be driveshaft and other mods.
     
  7. frankhayden

    frankhayden New Member

    Thanks guys for the great info,, sounds like the best thing to do would be to find a scout 2 dana 300 for a good deal, I will keep me eyes open and I hope you fellas do to,,,,,Thanks again
     
  8. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Re the Scout D300, please realize that 1) the word is out about these and 2) there were very few made. There may be a few still out there that are not in the hands of enthusiasts. If you find one in a salvage vehicle, it will be either very expensive, or you will have to have a unique combination of great resourcefulness and extra good luck. You might find one at a good price right away (unlikely), or you may never find one. Just FYI.

    If you really want to use the close ratio T-18 (the one you have), find a D20 with the right pattern and convert it to better ratios with the Bronco sliding gear (a few hundred dollars) or Tera Gears (ca $700 last I looked). This will give you the bolt pattern you need and as good or better gearing than the Dana 300.

    The Ford T-18 that Nick recommends is another option that can be done at reasonable expense.

    I hope you got the bell with the CR T-18. You'll need it to use that transmission.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2011
  9. Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Or save $70 and buy the AA t-18/d300 adapter for $420 and free shipping through http://www.autopartsdealer.com/
     
  10. Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    If you need a 20 to get it together, I have quite a few of em and I am just off Locust in Bonney Lake.
     
  11. frankhayden

    frankhayden New Member

    The version that I have is this one. "1976 was a crossover year for the Jeep CJ T18, featuring either the 4.02 or 6:32 first gear and no front adapter as previously. Both these and all CJ T18's through 1979 had the shortest of the Jeep input shafts, measuring 7.43" of stickout." from the novak site.. This says no front adapter,, what bell housing do I need?
     
  12. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Maybe Novak knows better, but I believe that the '76 CJs only came with the close ratio T-18; no wide ratio available until 1977. The parts book confirms this.

    Did you get any bellhousing with the transmission? Ideally that's the bellhousing you want. This is not a common bellhousing. If the stick-out is 7.43" as Novak claims, then you need one of the '76-79 bellhousings. The parts book confirms that the '76-79 T-18s all use the same bell.

    I believe this bell is a different depth from the later bellhousing, different from the bell with your T-5. The bell used with the T-150, T-176, SR-4, T-4 and T-5 are all the same casting as I recall, and have the same depth as a Ford bell. These bells have a depth of less then 7" IIRC.

    Nick has more experience with these bells than I do - maybe he can comment.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2011
  13. frankhayden

    frankhayden New Member

    I did not get a bell with it, the bell was still on a ford 302 that had been pulled out and was still there. I belive it is available as he was selling the motor also. Do I need that bell?
     
  14. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    No, I expect if it was connected to a Ford engine, it is a conversion bell from Advance Adapters (maybe). You need the factory bell for an AMC engine.
     
  15. frankhayden

    frankhayden New Member

    Almost seems like I'd be better off going with a T-176 ?
     
  16. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Your Jeep, your choice.

    The close ratio T-18 is a very strong transmission, much stronger than the T-176. The T-176 is lighter and easier shifting than the T-18, and significantly stronger than the T-5. The T-176 shift tops tend to wear out, and cause the shifter to jam. New aftermarket shift tops are available, however.

    I suggest you contact some of the usual sources (R&P, Scottys, J&W, likely others) and ask about availability of the bellhousing for your T-18. The bell PN is 3228248.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2011
  17. frankhayden

    frankhayden New Member

    Would a t-176 bolt up to the bell I have now ?
     
  18. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    If you drill some new holes in the bell, yes.
     
  19. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    The '76-'79 bellhousing has the Jeep T-18 case bolt pattern on it. The depth is the same as the '76-'86 T-150, 176, T-5, etc. bellhousing. The length difference is compensated for by the position of the pilot bushing/bearing. The AMC crank should have two steps in it. One shallow and one deeper inside. If yours doesn't then this transmission won't work for you. You'd need the pilot bushing for the '76-'79 AMC motor with the T-18. It has a smaller pilot and smaller outside diameter of the bushing so it fits deeper in the crank. The Ford conversion with the shorter input shaft uses a larger diameter pilot bushing that is special machined that fits in the outer step in the crank.

    I've been told you can drill the Jeep pattern in your bellhousing but I don't know from first hand experience. We always use Ford cases to make them very easy to bolt up. The T-150/176 bellhousing is a direct bolt up. The T-4/T-5 bellhousing you need to drill and tap a few holes, but the bosses are cast into the bellhousing to do this. Some already have a pilot in the right position as well.
     
  20. obarrett

    obarrett Member

    ive recently picked up a t18a and d300...

    i haven't pulled the trigger on the adapter yet.

    read many of message board post across the web, and i think customer service may slant slightly towards novak.

    you can pick up the AA cheaper than the novak, especially if you go through amazon or the link posted in a previous message.

    from what i have read, the fit and finish on the novak seems to be better, and the novak gives you several clocking options..

    the novak website has a great knowledge base, and i appreciate that.

    with that said, i have never seen either in person, haven't made a decision.
    i like the fact AA is a california company, but i think am leaning towards the novak even though its runs a little pricier.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2011