Rusty's 3" CJ5 lift

Tie rod flip also gets your tie rods up and out of the way of rocks and stuff. The Goferitoffroad site is what I did. They've worked great for me.

 

The easiest and cheapest would be to try spacers between the springs and perch. I think drilling a hole in the knuckles to flip the tie rods weakens the metal. If the shim does not work, then I would try flipping the spring wrap after removing it. Looks like the end opposite the bolt would clear more easily with the combination of the axle shims.

 

x2!!

 

just remove the bolt and cut it flush with the top of the spring.

those clamps are one there to help keep the springs in line and stop the spring from faning out.

the clamp will stay on there for a very long time lost count of how many of them bolts i took out and threw away with the bolts gone you get more droop out of the spring

 

Yes, cut it off ... or send the springs back to Rusty's.

This is quite unimpressive - very poor execution by Rusty's. You'd think they would have fit their springs to a CJ before they offered them for sale.

 

Yes it is!!!!!! They brag on there web site about being in business when these Jeeps were made. So on that stand after 37 they can't figure out how to make a leaf spring clear!!!!!

On the idea of just cutting the spring wraps here are 2 questions....1 I would be getting more travel out of the spring right??? 2 would that travel only be down or would it be up also?? If it goes up more the problem would never be fixed right........ I would just be hitting during travel and not at a stand still.... Maybe I'm looking at this wrong IDK.
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It looks to me like the spring clips are riveted to one of the leaves, then the bolt goes across the top of the clip. If you cut the clip off flush with the top of the top leaf, the u-shaped part of the clip will still be there and will keep the leaves from spreading. The rear clip, by itself, is plenty to keep the leaves from spreading.

Typically the lower leaves have more arc than the top leaf, so the leaf pack will stay together even without the clips. I expect that cutting the clip won't have much effect on the flexibility of the spring - you'd have to bend the spring enough so that the bottom leaves separate from the upper leaves in order to see any effect.

If you worry about such things, you might call or write Rusty's and tell them what you are going to do and why. If you cut the clip off, they could refuse to act on any warranty claim you might have later. Give them the opportunity to make good on the purchase. I'd offer to send the springs back to them at their pre-paid expense.

 

Sorry stupid thought!!! Brains a bit fuzzy today.1 goes up the other goes with it.
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there are lower profile spring alignment clamps on amazon for arould $10. if rusty's wont or cant slove your problem i would put new clamps on and be done with it. i dont like the idea of getting rid of them altogether.
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I would take the bolt off the top. And with big hammer fold the end over and be done.

 

Rusty's has been in business roughly 22 years. They are about 35 miles down the road from me. They are not as big as they like to tout, maybe 6-7 employees total. They are out in the middle of no where. Most people can drive by them and never know they exist, I have bought a few things from them but know seveal guys that won't go near them. They have a nice shop but from what I've heard they can't or don't keep help long, maybe a year or 2.

 

they rape you on shipping too. the web site quoted $159 to ship the same kit that the OP has and $17 shipping for a small $16 spacer. another company quoted $60 shipping for a simular kit.
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Well first off thank you everyone for your help/opinions on this lift. 2ND by no means did I intend to have this post turn into a Rusty's bash.

I have spoke AGAIN to Rusty's about the leaf spring bracket hitting the tie rod and drag link. After a bit of explaining and waiting on hold they told me to cut the current ones off, then they will send me new slim profile clips. Also that they will still honor there warranty with this mod. So I guess when they show up (if they do) Rusty's will have done whats right. I guess.
Now I'm not saying I will ever order from them again. Or that this lift kit is good. I will say I won't recommend them!!

So with all that said when my new tie rod comes in (broke the old one taking it off.) I will finally get the tires back on triple check to make sure I can get out of the garage and take it for a test drive when the temp is above 15 degrees. Oh and take a few pics (so It's real Haha) and post my final opinion on here. Lol. Again thanks everyone.......
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I don't see any wrong with telling the truth. You are just telling what happen. We are here to help each other. You are helping me by warning me and Rusty by showing his shortcoming. That way he can improve his service and gain better business..

 

glad to hear that they took care of the problem. at least rusty's knows that there are clearance issues and hope they will use the low profile clamps from now on. i still think they over charge for shipping.
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Well here's an update with a few pics. Rusty's has yet to send out the new spring wraps!!! Go figure.. It's only been 4 1/2 weeks.. So I decided to go with a tie rod flip. I used the Goferit.com tie rod flip inserts. (check out my Goferit post for details). I ended up gaining 4 1/8" worth of lift from the kit plus my homemade shackles which measure 3 1/2" center to center on the blots (.75" longer than my stock shackles). All in all I'm happy with it. I've only been able to take her out for 10 miles or so, so far. It's cold in Iowa. It actually rides like a caddie compared to the old ride, I was pleasantly surprised... Right now the only few issues I'm having are brake lines are to short, bump stops need extending, and I'm getting some drive line vibration. I think I know all the fixes for these problems but will be making an official HELP post later on. Here are some pictures. The one of me flexing is how I found out the brake lines were to short. Had about 2" of shock left on the passenger side but no more brake line. lol Oh ya 31X10.5X15 X 10 year old tires in the pictures.





Here is the brake line!!!!! HAHA





And here is a before picture. Probably the last time the top will ever be on the Green Machine can't fit in the garage anymore with it on!!!




Thank you everyone for your help/opinions!!

 

I gotta say, I love the way it looks with that lift on it! That being said, it is too bad that there are a lot of other things on top of the cost of the lift that need to be taken into account. Is this normal with most lifts or unique to the rustys lift? I'm saving up to do a yj lift on mine when the time comes but it's really great to see what other people are working with. Keep the pics coming!

 

Well I have no idea if this is unique to Rusty's or not but so far.$540 lift, $49 goferit.com tie rod flip, $190 Rugged Ridge HD tie rod/drag link, and still need brake lines and extended bump stops I think. So ya I'm figuring just short of a $1000 and oh 30 hours in the garage. But hey it looks cool right and how else should ya spent a butt *** cold Iowa winter. Lol
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Woot! Glad you got the issues worked out.

I have the same issue with my garage door. The stringers of the garage are high enough, but the door was meant to clear passenger cars. I expect I will raise the door header. This will require some finagling of the roll-up door - maybe a jackshaft lifter instead of the conventional lifter.