Which is better???

I've found out where some of my wheel wobble was coming from. The PO had left the lock washer out of the left front hub and it was loose as a drunk goose.

He had the washer (notched) that goes behind the lock nut with the three set screws, behind the big lock nut between the nut and the bearing.

Anyway, which is better, two of the regular lock nuts or the lock nut with three set screws (and where can you find these with the 3 set screws)?

 

AFAIK the ring with set screws is part of the Warn auto-locking hub kit. NLA. The factory only supplied the tab washer with the flanges. The tab washer works fine.

 

this is correct. and any other nut wont work with the hub AFAIK

 

So this washer (below) for the larger lock nut, is not needed using the tab washer alone???? Is that what you're saying?

 

No, you need two hex nuts and the tab washer. Nut, tab washer, nut. Tighten the inner nut to get the bearing preload you want. Install the washer. Install the outer nut and tighten. Bend the edge of the washer over one face of the outer nut to lock the nut in place.

 

That's the way I have it now, but it's nut, washer, nut (the one with the set screws) the washer it not big enough to bend over the nut. The washer has holes in it for the set screws.

The PO had it, washer, nut, nut, that's the reason it was loose.

Thanks for the info.

 

you have it correct, so what do you need another washer for:? is yours shot? missing the allen screws? threads stripped out?

 

No, washer is in good shape and the nut has one set screw.

All the parts diagram I've seen shows two washers, (outer bearing, washer nut, washer, nut) I just thought that someone had forgot to put one of them back in, since the PO had them in wrong in the first place, I wasn't sure what all he had messed up..

Thanks for your reply..

 

The picture you posted earlier is of the first washer to be inserted. It should go next to the outer wheel bearing, then a nut, then your lock washer, then your locking nut.

 

Uh, guys, on a front end without the Lock-o-matic hubs (using drive flanges or most any other locking hubs) it goes washer with tab, NOT the bendable one but a narrower one, inner lock nut which adjusts the bearing preload, then the bendable washer, then the outer lock nut which helps keep the inner from coming loose. The bendable washer gets bent over the inside nut and the outside nut.

 

Yes, I should have included the inner tab washer, against the bearing. I only vaguely remember it though.

I have never bent the lock washer over both nuts. To do that, you'd have to bend one location in and another location out. Maybe this is better ... but I've never seen it done that way.

 

This is how mine came apart:

 

Nice Pic! Illustrates what I said perfectly. Thanks for posting that up.

 

Thanks for the pictures Philip-TX !!!

The parts diagram shows a snap ring after the drive flange and then the cap..

Is that right? Does your set up have the snap ring?

If so....Where can I find the snap ring? ..I FOUND IT!

I've found the drive flange, gasket, & cap, online but haven't seen a snap ring.

 

Yes it has the snap ring
Looks like Walcks has for a buck.
http://www.walcks4wd.com/Product/Snap-ring-axle-Spicer/4012

 

The snap ring goes on the end of the axle shaft and prevents the shaft from moving in and out (much) in the flange.

Not a big deal if you leave it out for now. I can look up the part number later - may be easier to find it online that way.

Somebody should have some used flanges and caps for you. Maybe R&P? Or place a WTB ad here and in other forums.

 

Ok, Walcks gives a (WWII era) Jeep PN 649778.

Available lots of places. http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&...=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=267856ed3ee60de5