Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by supertrooper, Oct 15, 2010.
looks great ,,,,but wow that fill plug is way up there and BD is good stuff
That's the kind of flip kit I need to swap too. I did the Rock equipment flip with the tapered sleeves, but they have loosened up over time and abuse. What method was used to weld them in ST?
TIG with er70-s2 filler rod.
Very nice build. I have been using this thread as one of my reference pieces for my CJ.
I did have one question and I apologize for derailing this. I noticed with your clutch, you drilled and bolted one end of the slave cylinder into the transmission side shift post. How is that working? I made a plate, but this looks so clean and simple I am considering it. How deep did you drill into the post?
I think its drilled 1" - 1 1/4" deep 3/8 threads. I still haven't driven the jeep so I dont know how well it will hold up in the long term. Im going to drill and tap the other post and bolt a peice of steel between the posts. I hoping that will be stronger and give more slave cylinder mounting options. Right now the slave cylinder is at its max length.
I drilled into one of the side shift ears on my 3 speed, for my hydraulic slave cylinder. It's held up just fine for many years.
With the heat and waiting for parts it took awhile to get the dana 30 installed. The new tie rod hit the shock at full lock in the factory position and the brake caliper hit the shock when mounted behind the axle. I have some f250 shock towers and ordered some lower tabs to relocate the shocks to the top of the axle. Im also going to relocate the front brake lines so the flexible lines will work with the wider axle. I decided to use ubolt skids from Currie since the warrior skids look like they hang down alot and the curries are only 1 1/2" thick. Now I need to figure out what I want to do for the driveshaft, get a new one made or have a stock one modified. I was worried that the steering box would have to be moved since I set it up with a different axle, pitman arm, and tie rod/draglink. Luck for me the draglink is flat at ride height and clears the tie rod.
part # for inserts from TMR?
Excellent work! This is exactly what I want to do with my CJ-5 someday. I'm in love with the look of your motor.
One thing I'm looking at doing right now is replacing my steering shafts and U joints. Where did you get your parts from? I've been reading about proper U joint phasing, are yours phased correctly, or does it really matter? Hard to tell from the picture.
Cj6/442 - here is the link.
Focker - I got the ujoints, shaft, and 3/4" support heim from speedway motors. I timed the joints like a driveshaft would have the yokes timed.
Time to update this project. I finally pulled the transfer case and transmission to see why the clutch wouldnt work. Turns out i put the friction disk in backwards. I also gave up on the inside the frame headers and exhaust. There just isnt the clearance i would like for the clutch slave cyl, fuel and brake lines etc. So i bought advance adapters fenderwell headers and will be doing a more traditional exhaust system. That also means i need to redo the steering to clear the new headers. When i was mocking up the ford shock towers i notice that the steering box input shaft would hit the tie rod before the bumpstop so i ordered advance adapters steering box mount to move the box up and forward. Since the grill and radiator will need to come out to cut the old mount off ill install a PS cooler infront of the radiator. The original fuel tank sender stopped working right after i installed the tank so that has to get replaced too. Since i can't find a offset flanged 44 thats in my budget im going to order herms full float axles since i have all the other parts for the full float. This jeep has been alot of one step forward and three steps back.
Sorry to hear about your issues, done the clutch bit myself, once. Both my brother and myself have been told that headers on a Dauntless are worthless, you are better off to do a larger 2 into one system using stock manifolds for better torque. As far as your rear axle, I went out and checked, centered flanged housing and no case here, but I do seem to have the shafts, not that it will help you.
Since both of the steering boxes i got from the junk yard leaked and were three bolt boxes i got a reman box from autozone. Its a 4 bolt and 4 turn for a 86 cj7. Today i got the grill/radiator removed along with the steering, fuel lines, brake lines, and wiring for the tail section. Good thing i pulled grill, i found a couple cracks i forgot to fix. I also mounted a derale steering cooler to the grill in front of the radiator. Now i need to run all the lines and wires on the inside the driver side frame rail. The clutch is reinstalled correctly this time and hopefully it will work now.
keep at it ! looks really sweet
any updates on this project? This is one of my favorites....
Thanks, i have been working alot of 6 day weeks for the last few months so i haven't had much free time.
update time. i haven't had much time to work on the jeep in the last few months. i have been ordering parts which seems to be a never ending list of things to buy. i installed an auxiliary fuse block and started rewiring the dash. i cut the hole to mount the radio and im relocating the gauges to the dash since the panel i was using was close to the shifter and would shake a lot with the engine running. i also tacked in a dash crossbar for the roll cage and added some grab handles.
yesterday i finished the rock sliders but im still not sure if i want to add rock rails to them so i haven't painted them yet. they were used on a cj6 and were really rusty but they cleaned up really nice. i welded up the old mounting holes and drilled new ones and spent a couple hours grinding off all the surface rust.
i started putting in a 30 spline limited slip and i have all the parts ready to do a full float conversion.
since the grill and radiator are out i figured it would be a good time to install a steering cooler. its a 2 pass derale.
today i picked up a peice of 1'' dom for a steering box brace and the tabs and heims from ruff stuff showed up today as well. the first time i did the steering shaft i used weldon ujoints to save a few bucks and i couldnt reuse them so i got new stainless joints.
i removed the steering box mount because with the tie rod flip the tie rod was going to hit the box. im going to use a mount from advanced adapters since im to lazy to make another one. i with the new tie rod and the large chevy calipers the shocks would hit if they were on the front or back of the axle so the top was the only place left. the brake lines look short but they clear the tires and shocks both lock 2 lock and up and down
i dropped the gas tank and replaced the sender because with my luck even after bench testing the original before it went in it went bad. mehh that's about it for now, hopefully i can keep the momentum up and get this thing finish.
The steering cooler is not enough big.
If you run with front axle locked it wont be able to cool down the oil. I had the same before going with one the cover all the opening of the grill.
I dont plan on running tires bigger than 33" and this isnt going to be a trail only jeep. The cooler in your pic would be overkill for my application but if i was running hydro assist and 36" tires like you i would have gone bigger. Plus i dont want to block air flow to the radiator.
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