225 ticking noise HELP & parts supplier

Motor has a ticking noise like a excess valve clearance, however it is has a different tone and with the old hose to ear trick it is loudest right behind the distributor base at front of intake and top of water pump area. Removed both covers and ran it, found #1 intake rocker not moving as much as others. Noise is no louder and no excess lash. I did notice most push rods rotate when motor running, some A LOT, and a couple do not rotate by themselves but will with fingers. Seems like collapsed lifter which I really do not think is cause of noise. Runs and idles good. Has HEI. Compression is 135 to 145. History - motor came in cj2a we bought 10 years ago. I tried back then to id the year oer this site, however no luck. Looks like it has never been apart. The heads have the 1/4 npt hole at each exhaust port. We have probably put 5000 to 10000 miles on it - 50/50 on/off road. Never any hi rpms although ran it 3 qts low on oil - oops - no leaks but apparently uses some - no blue out tailpipe. Motor has always had this noise but it is getting louder.
Any ideas? (timing chain, fuel pump)
Help on year?
Where can I get good stock engine parts? (cam, lifters)
Tempted to just run it, was planning to do a 4.3l, but love this motors lugging ability and simplicity - first problem since owned it.
If collapsed lifter any thoughts if more damage running it for a few more trail rides?
Anyone got a good motor near Denver?

 

Noise does get quieter off idle, not sure if 100% gone away. IF this is what is happening, do you suggest not runnig it anymore? I have seen a little bit about a double roller timing chain, is this the best route and does it eliminate the tensioner?

Wish I had the AA tapered brg kit.
Thanks for the help, appreciate it. It is a bummer because I have only had the jeep back on the road for 2 months after a 2 year renovation.

 

I have had to swap out a lot of lifters in 225s after they have sat awhile. Pretty easy job to do. Also these motors can make some interesting ticking from exhaust leaks that you would swear are internal noises but they aren't.

 

My '66 had the same noise. I replaced the timing chain and gears with Comp Cams timing set. No more noise.

 

This should be emphasized! I've found this to be the case as well.

 

Exhaust leaks usually get louder on acceleration and go away on decceleration. You can locate them with an automotive stethoscope.

I'd suspect the timing chain - check how much rotational slop your distributor has. On some cars you can look in through the fuel pump hole and see how much slack the chain has. If the original nylon gear is still there, it could shed teeth at any time. I don't think the 225 is an interference engine*, but if you jump time you'll be stranded.

*For some engines, the valves will interfere with the pistons if the cam timing is upset.

 

This. I had a pretty good ticking at idle coming from the front of the engine like you describe. I thought nothing of it since the engine seemed to idle and run good. However once I pulled the timing cover to replace the chain I could see where the ticking was coming from. The chain was very loose (could almost remove it by hand) and had been rubbing on the timing cover. I replaced the chain and I now have a quiet mostly tick free engine. Good luck!!

 

My ticking noise after changing the timing chain & gears, lifter's, checking for exhaust leaks, ended up being a spun rod bearing. Just hope this is not the case for you.

 

WOW, I am amazed at all the response. I thank all of you. I am going to inspect timing chain saturday. Does sound similar to exhaust but do not believe it is.

confused on tensioner stuff i read - use double roller and you can elimate the tensioner - really? why if use double roller? what if i get a standard timing chain/gear set from napa or rock auto, can i eliminate the tensioner or should i try to keep tensioner? I have always thought double rollers stretch more.

Also I have read in a couple places the lifters are mechanical (that to me means solid, not hydraulic) are they? I gotta believe they are hydraulic because how would you set lash if they are mechanical?

 

The 225 is hydraulic on lifters. If you replace the push-rods you have to make sure the length is the same as the old ones due no adjustment capability. You can however install shims under the rocker pedestals if your new push-rods are longer.

 

The tensioners get eliminated only when using a double roller timing chain. I replaced mine with an Edelbrock after reading mostly great reviews. A stock type replacement chain will come with new tensioners that must be used. A stock replacement is going to be cheaper as well.

 

Before


After


My tensioner showed little wear. I reused it and the rub block. It's tight with new chain and sprockets. $30 from Comp Cams.

 

Not necessarily true. Depends on the manufacturer of the timing gear/chain set.
I first used the Edelbrock double row timing set. Used them for years with great results on other applications. Didn't last 40,000 miles on my 231.
Replaced with a single row Cloyes high end set (yes they have different quality levels) with steel gears and it did not use the the tensioners. Been in there around 15-18 or so years with no issues. YMMV etc., etc.

 

eddiememphis, nice pics. My chain hadmuch more slop that the one you show and it had skiipped one tooth. Still started, idled and ran good.

nickmil, thanks for some clarification.

Took 4 hours to get it out and all cleaned up. My cover was stuck on there. Ordered new timing set and water pump via Napa. Going to reuse the tensioner, only had slight wear. Thanks again for everyones input. I figure I will be rebuilding it or doing cam and lifters in couple years. Or I may do a 4.3l.