1972 CJ-5 Almost Restoration

a little crooked in the original condition? Looks off center in the rear.

 

I'll award GreenGhost the winning post - was ever so close. hellokitty

It seems I have the sensors swapped. So not 2 reverse light switches, but the reverse switch is in the wrong location. Would have been fun tracking down that electrical problem...

 

So what are those two sensors for? Do they both work together to trigger the reverse lights?

 

The one on the right in the photo is suppose to be on the left. That one is a Transmission Control Spark sensor thing. I'm still working to what it's for. But if I understand correctly it (advanced?) the spark in high gears? May have the very wrong. But the goal was to help lower emissions.

The sensor on the left in the photo is suppose to be on the right. And that one is for the reverse indicator lights.

 

It does a little in the photos. But the transmission mount lines right up with the x-member. But now that you point that out, I'll be getting out the measuring implements this weekend to double check... My paranoia knows no bounds.

 

I think I hadn't had enough coffee when I responded this a.m. It does look like the camera angle now that I see again.

 

To late, my obsessive personality has griped on to this and won't let go. mehh

It's not your fault. I think I opened and re-checked the torque on the bottom end 3 or 4 times over the course of two weeks...

 

It's not that I don't believe that. It actually makes some sense. But I'm not sure I would want to be the engineer that had to explain it to upper management.

I wonder if I can use the same excuse when it comes to the alignment of the hood of front fenders. "They are suppose to have a larger gap on that side. It helps channel airflow through the engine compartment".

 

The right tool makes all the difference. Thanks again for the recommendation Warloch.



With the new tool in hand I spent the weekend bending up brake and fuel lies. Still need to flare the lines, but with luck that should go well. Now, on to the pictures…


Fuel feed

Over the top of the block to the pump, then back up to the filter. I'm not 100% happy with the fuel feed line. I may remove the hose portion and run the hard line directly to the pump. That should allow me to get the loop higher, and lower the risk of it getting hit and snapping.




My plan is to run a hard line across the firewall that will attach to the file line across the block with a short hoes. Keeping the lines isolated between the engine, tub and frame.

Fuel line from the tank forward






Brake lines


Going to the rear end


Rear Line


Forward to the front lines


Front right


Front Left




With the new bending tool, the lines weren't to difficult to construct. Although I still managed to bugger it up a couple of times. The short distance multiple bend sections are the most difficult. But going slow I think I managed to get them to a point that I'm happy.

Still having a couple of issues with some of the mounts. 2 mounts on the front line, and 2 on the rear attach with Lag Bolts, and the frame is boxed at that part, as is the x-member the rear line is mounted to. I picked up a couple of stainless steel ones at the local hardware store, but the threads do not continue all the way to the bolt head. So I can't get them to seat flush with the clamp. Going to look around and see if I can find one that has threads running all the way to the head.

 

awsome job my man!!! One little thing though...that hard line going from the tank...do you think it would be a better idea to run soft line up to the passenger side frame rail instead of the solid? That way you can remove the tank easier if needed. As of the picture, it looks like you would have to try and squeeze in between the tank and tub to remove your clamp, finagle the small piece of rubber back then drop the tank. i could be mistake from the picture but i have personally learned from my build that other people see things that I dont lol.

 

Thats a good point.. mehh

My thinking was to minimize the length of soft fuel line, but still prove isolation between components. I.e.. tank to frame, frame to firewall, firewall to engine. Now I will be the first to admit that the thought of having to tear back into this thing at a later date never crossed my mind. I'm also not sure that I want to acknowledge that possibility by building in ways to facilitate it. Kind of feels like inviting karma - but then not doing it now kind of does that sam thing.... Dam! :?

On the plus side, the clamp is healed in place with a bolt. So I at least have easy access to one side of it. But I would need to work out how to get to the to the other side.

 

As warlock said, I actually pulled my fuel tank during my build, flushed it out and a new sending unit and all...now I have to pull it back out because my fuel looks like black silt and the tank has cracks forming as we speak. OOOOO! Just had a thought...what IF you used braided fuel line from the pass. frame rail to the sending unit...that way its more durable then the rubber AND looks cool as well. Will also give you the line flex you will need.

 

I know you're right. I think I'm just a little to happy with how clean it looks, and not thinking long term maintenance, etc...

My initial concern was the fuel line holding up over time. It seems all the hoses on my old YJ needed to be replaced every 2 years or so from rot. Ethanol doesn't help ether. But then again 4 inches or 3 feet of hose, it will still need to be replaced just as frequently. I wonder if the braided line holds up longer? I suspect the braiding helps with chafing, but what about dry rot and ethanol weakening?

It would look pretty slick. :?

 

Im not too sure about the internal difference between the two. My jeep has hard line from the pump to the last cross member then has soft line going from the frame to the tank. Had the jeep for almost 6 years when I started the build and when the tank was pulled, the line looked almost new...minus all the mud caked to it. I think a good, quality braided line will be a good choice since the outside will be protected from abrasion and the like. Im bored so i will see what I can look up.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-AN-Braide...ts&hash=item19bbc5bdd5&vxp=mtr#ht_3437wt_1110

Found this. Never priced braided line before and this seems to be some good shhhhhhhhh...stuff.

EDIT: Upon some more searching, I have not found anything that says anything about the internal structure of the line. I beleive the line in the link above has steel braid inside the line then the braided outter which may help with interal strength and they say they run all fuels including alcohol and such without issue.

 

Just read your whole thread, amazing progress. I absolutely love the pictures of the brake lines

 

It does… Just not sure I need to go that far….

Thanks piffey263. If you like the brake lines, check out the flares.

I think this may be rapidly approaching overkill for me. Between the K.I.S.S. philosophy and the "Its not a Ferrari, its not a Ferrari, its not a Ferrari" mantra. I'm going to air on simplicity and run the standard 5/16 fuel hoes. I'm thinking of cutting the hard line just after the 1st bracket and bending it at 45deg towards the fuel out on the tank. Then using a foot or so of soft line. That should give me a hard line that won't rattle against the frame, and sufficient soft line that I can drop the tank.




Flared all the brake lines this weekend. And spent the remaining time blasting the inside of the tub. Almost ready to prime and paint the inside.