Starting a Disc conversion... with a few Q's

I had scoured the net for information and have gotten a lot of good info from the archives here and also from Chuck P but somehow forgot where to post my questions, thus you may see the following posted elsewhere.

Now that I am back in the right spot... I would like to ask the experts here a few questions before I get started with this project and appreciate all feedback you can offer. Thanks in advance.

I am preparing to convert my 66 CJ-6 to disc brakes. I have obtained a set of backing plates/mounting brackets from a 77 K-10 and have priced the new compontents at several local auto parts houses.

1. Should I remove the tack-welded dust shields from the caliper mount/ backing plate? Some have said this reduces unsprung weight and a mud pack area while others indicate a stray rock can ruin calipers etc.

2. The required 1 1/8" thick 5 stud rotors seem to come in a couple of flavors...with 2 bolt or 6 bolt mounting points. Which is correct? The 6 bolt seems to be the one I have reasoned out, but I don't know. The 2 bolt version seems to mount on the steering knuckle from what I gather reading the parts manual at AutoZone. What is the correct year - I have seen 76-77, 77-78 and 76-78 listed as the years equipped. When you say 1 1/8" you are measuring the thickness between the rotor front and rear pad bearing surface - right?

3. I realize that while I have her apart, I should replace any worn front-end parts. What are the typical requirements?... I know the the knuckle gaskets are one, but what other gaskets/rebuild areas should be done while I got grease on my hands? ... Bearings, Knuckles, ball joints/tie rods, steering dampner/gearbox... ???? Where is the best place to find these kits? Anything else?

I'm dealing with a D27A front axel (V6 Buick) and will do the D44 rear in a few weeks. I plan on keeping the stock MC at first and then upgrading to power or at least a dual MC later on depending how tough it is to change the pedels etc..

After I deal with the brakes I will tackle lifts, trans, electrical, etc.
This is a trail toy but it's also not a 'spare no expense' project.

Thanks again
Al

 

1) If you have the backing plates with the tin dust shields, you may as well remove them.

2) The 6 bolt variety is what you want. The 2 bolt should be 7/8" not 1 1/8"

The 1 1/8" measurement is the thickness of the rotor braking surface.

 

Trail Slider,

Ditto! I am very interested in your progress. As you can see by another current thread, I need to replace the seals for my knuckles, at a minimum. I may do a total rebuild of the front end including the disc brake conversion. If you or anyone has a list of part numbers and parts, a copy would be greatly appreciated.

JK

 

Ditto what everyone has said, especially about the dust shield. I've found that they seem to catch small rocks and mud. Mine have been off for years and work just fine. There is a bearing race that spaces the hub out properly when using the drum brake spindles and GM caliper mounts and calipers so you don't have to use a spacer or sand down the pad. I'll try and get the # today. I don't remember the whole # off the top of my head. Nickmil.

Edit:
Ok, the original race # should be 501310 timken. The replacement race is a 501311 race. This will space the bearing hub out enough to center the rotor between the pads properly. If you use a National 8430s seal you are good to go. You won't be able to drive the seal quite all the way in or it will hit the bearing, but will work fine. The rear of mine has been this way for years with no problems (home made full float kit with disc brakes). Let me know if any questions on this. Nickmil.

 

Thanks for all the info guys - I appreciate it. As I progress thru this I will keep a photo notebook and detailed parts list then post it when complete. I'm sure I will have more Q's as this goes on. Gotta collect all the parts first though.

Al

 

All parts can be had from stock for the conversion except the mounting bracket that bolts to the spindle. Bendix cast bracket is oem. I bought my conversion as a kit (Can't remember Vendor). The only downside was that I had to cut the short bumpstop arm off the passenger side to prevent major interference. Calipers are Jeep 78 bendix with keys and funky shoulder allen screw. Note: you must sand the paint off the mating surfaces of rebuilt calpers or it will never seal brake fluid. Rear discs use the brakets Warn makes for the full floater kit. Calipers are S10 metrics as per Warn recs. I don't have the dust shields. I would recommend you switch out the Master to dual disc/disc at the same time. Herm the overdrive guy reproduces a bolt in bracket that will allow you to keep thru the floor pedals.