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dana 18 rebuild question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by zachUSMC, Jul 6, 2010.

  1. Jul 6, 2010
    zachUSMC

    zachUSMC New Member

    Queen City of...
    Joined:
    May 25, 2006
    Messages:
    23
    I took my dana 18 apart ('61 cj5) to clean inspect and replace oil seals/intermediate shaft/bearings etc. The output shaft bearings were in good shape and didn't see the need to replace. Upon reassembly, i put the same shims back under the bearing cap and went to check endplay and the shaft wouldn't turn they are so tight. So I moved the cup out of the case until it would turn and it appears i need more shims. It doesn't make any sense to me b/c everything on the output shaft is the same as it was. The bearings are seated well on the shaft....if anything i would have assumed i needed less shims to get the proper endplay, now it appears i need more? Any suggestions...thanks in advance.
     
  2. Jul 7, 2010
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,530
    Did you install the gasket for the front output housing to case? If no this changes the preload on the bearings or an aftermarket gasket could be a different thickness. Run into it all the time.

    Did you press the output seal(s) in the housing all the way? If no then the dust shield on the yoke could be hitting the seal shell. Learned that the hard way too.

    Edit:

    One other thing, you did remember to install the speedo drive gear on the rear output shaft right? Sounds silly but I didn't install one once when I got distracted while assembling an 18. The speedo drive gear acts as a spacer for the rear output yoke.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2010
  3. Jul 7, 2010
    Wmi68CJ5

    Wmi68CJ5 Let the Sun Shine!

    Twin Lake MI
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2006
    Messages:
    742
    If your front bearing cup cut pushed back in a little too far during inspection/reassembly I am wondering if tightening the outptut housing bolts to spec would not push the cup where it needs to be seated against the front output housing lip thus causing a tight bearing to bearing dimension issue. Maybe a good wrap with a deadblow on the rear output shaft until the front cup is fully seated might do it?
     
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