Barn Find!

That thing is cool from every angle! Check the brakes, bearings, lights and steering, change fluids and enjoy it just like it is! Put me on the call list if/when you decide to sell.:driving:

 

Thanks for all the kind words guys!

My plans echo just about exactly all the advice I've seen here. Check out all the important stuff, drivetrain, brakes, steering, electrical and leave the rest alone and just drive it.

I worked on it this weekend. Found several things, the bungee cord holding the Tcase in low range was probably put on during the last trip it took. It woudn't go into Hi Range 2WD at all, so the transfer case is needing a rebuild.

The speedo cable is broken, so that 10130 original miles is not accurate.

The driveline slip joints haven't been greased for so long that the slip joints were frozen. I had real problems getting the drivelines out. They are soaking in solvent now.

The heater was home to some rodent, the heater core is plugged with litter from the critter. It is soaking in the parts cleaner now.

I got the air pump and all the fittings removed. California changed the smog laws a few years back to grandfather all vehicles older the 1976 so I won't need these parts unless the State changes the rules again.

Did I mention the best part? The PO had a clear title, and had up to date non-Op certificates. I stopped at DMV after paying for it, presented the Bill of Sale and the title, an hour later had a current sticker for the plates.

Don

 

Great find! Congrats.

 

nice!

 

Wow! It's almost a duplicate of my '67' including the original color. Mine has changed somewhat over the years, but still very similar. In fact, I gave almost that exact amount for mine in Aug, 1966.

Things change, but sometimes it's eerie how they remain the same.

 

Time for an update after 5 weeks and 2 days. Yesterday I took it out on the street for the first time, felt good for about 5 minutes.

List of things I did to it
Drivetrain:
1) Pulled the engine and gearboxes, pressure washed the engine about 4 times. Pulled the valve covers and oil pan, got a fair amout of sludge cleaned
out of the bottom of the oil pan and around the drain holes in the heads. In checking valve open/close action I found 2 bent push rods. Evidently the PO tried to get it started after sitting for a long time and maybe a couple of stuck valves caused this. Both were intake valves, #2 and #3 I think. I used a vise and a hammer and straight edge to get the push rods straight again. Poured Marvel Mystery oil on the valve stems, and was able to push them open all the way. After putting the push rods back in all the valves open and close fully. Valve sealing checks out OK with the air hose on each cylinder set to TDC compression stroke.

2) I already mentioned the part about the sticky slip joints in the drivelines, started those soaking in solvent. After cleaning out the hardened grease from the slip joint and the u-joints the drive shafts are ready to replace.

3) Separated the Warn OD, slipped right off with no struggle. Soaking in solvent for case cleanup.

4) Separated the D18, set it aside for later rebuild. Removed the parking brake, soaked it in the parts washer then pressure washed it. Looks good
after cleaning the grease out of it. Got the replacement D18 out of the shed and cleaned it up, looks OK after inspecting it, it shifts into all selections.

5) Soaked the T14 in solvent for cleanup and inspection. Looked OK, shifts OK.

6) Reassembled the drivetrain with new gaskets and fresh paint. Filled with gear lube, the only leak appears from the speedometer drive.

7) Cleaned up the bell housing, clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel with the pressure washer. Looks fine, lots of lining life left on the disc. Flywheel and pressure plate look OK. Reassemble the clutch and bellhousing then put the T14/D18/Warn OD back on. Set the drivetrain aside for now.


Chassis:
1) Pressure wash and inspection. Brakes are completely inoperative, MC is empty. Steering is a little loose, Sector shaft bushings on the Ross box are worn. Bellcrank bearings are also a little loose. The steering wheel rim is bent with about 1½" of runout in the rim and horn switch is missing. Ordered sector shaft bushings, bellcrank bushings, steering wheel and horn switch kit from Krages.

2) Disassemble the brake MC, find it is full of some particulate matter in the bore. The bore looks not to bad, minor pitting. The rubber parts are still usable, cleaned it all up in the parts washer using Harbor freight degreasing solution that doesn't attack brake rubber parts like petroleum solvents will. Cleaned up the MC bore with a hone and reassembled and bench bled, set aside for now.

3) Pedal assemblies are frozen with hardened grease, dissasemble and cleaned up. All the moving/pivoting parts on this vehicle that are lubed with
chassis grease have frozen in place with hardened grease, hardened to the point of having to chip it off with a scraper tool. Degreaser solution and the pressure washer won't touch this hardened grease. All the tie rod ends, bellcrank, drag link, the pedal pivots had to be chipped clean. The clutch cable is also frozen, soaked it in the parts cleaner for a couple of days then used the pressure washer to blow out the dissolved debris. The brake pedal was also rubbing the side of the hole in the floor. It looked as though the PO had assembled the pivot bracket backwards. This '70 CJ does not have the cast pivot bracket that I've seen before but is a welded piece that can easily be turned around and installed backwards. I ended up having "adjust" the bends of the brake arm using the press to clear the steering box and bellhousing.

4) Reinstalled the MC and tried to bleed the entire system, couldn't get any fluid out of the wheel cylinder bleeder fittings. Removed one of the rear wheel cylinders and found it packed full of the same particulate matter as the MC had. This stuff was dried and almost as hard as soft concrete. I had to hammer the pistons out of the cylinder, and found them corroded past being useful. I have never seen a brake system that had so much 'stuff' in the cylinders. Replacement wheel cylinders from Kragen Auto for all 4 wheels, new shoes from Autozone, got Nick from S&H 4WD to turn all 4 drums. With the front brake assemblies off, now is the time to clean out the knuckle cavities and make up a batch of knuckle pudding. I bought a $6 electric
blender from Walmart and whipped up a 50/50 mix of 85/140 gear lube and some of the red chassis grease from Valvoline. Looks just like cherry pie filling. Reassemble, got the system bled out and functional brakes!

5) Sector shaft bushings and steering wheel arrived from Krage's. The sector shaft pins are worn some, but I left these alone. Replacement sector shafts for the V6 Ross box seem to be no longer available. Replaced the sector shaft bushings, had some problem getting the ID reamed out to fit the sector shaft. The outer bushing spun in the steering box casting, and I resorted to red Locktight to keep it from turning while I finished the reaming operation. With the sector shaft fitted in the new bushings, the horizontal play is gone and the steering play a little better. Decide to leave the bellcrank bearings alone for now until I road test the Jeep.

6) Reinstall the drivetrain package. With the engine/transmission back on the mounts and the front sheet metal back in place it looks like a Jeep again.

7) Fuel lines issues: PO replaced the tank with the only available steel tank from Omix-Ada. This tank is setup for the earlier fuel gauge sender that uses 6 machine screws to attach instead of the lock ring. The early sender has no pickup and return line fittings. I wanted to retain the return line setup to prevent vapor lock, so I modified the later gauge sender assembly to screw onto the tank and put an inverted flare plug into the fitting in the bottom of the tank.

8) Carburetor from the Carburetor Specialist in Alpharetta GA. http://www.carbspec.com/ Not cheap, but the original carburetor still wouldn't idle after having been rebuilt. It looks like corrosion plugging the idle circuit orifices. Put on the carb, crank the engine until fuel gets up there,
and it fired up and idles!

9) Removed the differential covers from both axles to drain the old gear lube. The front axle didn't look to bad, the rear axle gear oil was black and smelled burnt. The rear axle has some limited slip differential that is not a Powr-Lok, I don't know what it is. I got some pictures of it I'll get posted tomorrow. With the axles both refilled with fresh gear lube, I think it is ready to test drive!


First time out on the street! I took it down the gas station to fill it up, and back to the house. At the first stop sign the engine died. It restarted easy enough but won't idle. I probably should have bought a new fuel filter. The fuel tank sender unit also seems to leak, my modification needs some more work. JB weld is your friend. At 8:00 PM Sunday evening I'm not going to work on it more now, but it did get back home on its own power and stopped in the driveway when I stepped on the brakes.

 

Are these push rods unobtainable?

 

PLEASE rethink running that push-rod.

 

I agree with Patrick-something had to cause those pushrods to bend, and even if everything is freed up now and functioning properly, the first time you put any RPM's to it they'll probably bend again.

 

The Yellow Barn Find rolls again

All,
Well, 6 weeks of evenings and weekends and the yellow Jeep is on the road again!
The most significant money I had to put in it was a complete brake job, followed by installing a fan shroud. I bought one of the shrouds sold by PartsDude4X4, (Don Fletcher in Ione CA). It fits just fine on the 22" wide V6 radiators with the centered top hose connector.

I have not had trouble with the pushrods I straightened. This is one of the sweetest running V6 I have had and I have a few hours of run time on this engine now.

Getting the fuel system cleaned up and replumbed was a job, especially the fuel tank sender. I ended up making one out of two, an early style for the 4 cylinder that had no lines coming out the top and the other a later style for V6 that has the two lines for fuel and return and seals with the lock ring. The Omix-Ada tank has no lock ring retainer, but uses the 6 screw holes like the early style.
I cut the top of the 4 cylinder sender unit to get a ring with the 6 screw holes, and used JB Weld to glue this ring onto the later model sender. Once the JB Weld cured up, I trimmed the excess off the assembly and used some RTV to seal it to the cork gasket on the tank. I tested this the next day by filling the tank to the top of the neck and had no leaks.

Still to do: install a spare tire mounting rack, an electric winch and a new top when the weather starts to change.

Don

 

I am SOOOOO Jealous.

 

Posted via Mobile Device

 

Hi Guys,
Update after 8 weeks, and new pics








Here is a picture of the radiator shroud that partsdude4x4 sell for Jeepsters. It fits the 22" wide radiator for V6 CJ5 just fine.



What kind of differential is this? Is it a TracLoc? This is in the yellow Jeep. I thought it had a Powr-Loc until I pulled the cover to change the gear lube.

Don

 

Open.

 

Eddie,
No, definitely not an open. The shape of the differential case is different, more cylindrical than an open case. There is also resistance to turning one wheel jacked up off the ground, but I can break it loose by hand.
I think its a wornout TracLoc.

Don

 

Nope, definitely Trac-Loc. The Trac-Loc has that cylindrical case, needed for the clutches. The open case is more bullet shaped.

Trac-Loc is right for a flanged 44, AFAIK. I think the Power-Loc ended with the flanged axle.

Also, the two spider gear design is pretty weak, so take it easy with any impact load (no burnouts! )

Replace the clutch plates and run it. Randy's has an article on using home-made tools to replace the clutches.