D30 U-Joint Install

I've been slowly going through my Jeep and doing a little at a time. Now it's time for the U-Joints in the front axle of my '74. I've never done this before and the Haynes manual isn't very helpful with this step. I searched the boards but didn't come up with much. What do I need to do to get the axleshafts out and install the U-joints? Is there anything that I should watch out for or that might give me a problem? I found an older thread about installing the joints in the driveshaft, which I'm assuming is the same, but how do I get to that point? I've been told it's fairly simple but I want to make sure I do it right and don't screw anything up in the process. Could someone please give me instructions or tell me where I can find some? Thanks guys

-Steve

 

Did this the other day when installing the locker in dad's 30 so it is fresh in my memory.

1. Secure Jeep on jackstands and remove front tires.
2. Unbolt brake hardware.
3. Remove hubs. Remove reatining clip and rest of hub.
4.Remove wheel bearing nuts. Buy a socket if you don't already have one. Much easier and safer than hammer and screwdriver.
5.Once you have the nuts off the hub should slide off.
6.Remove 6 nuts that hold on the spindle and backing plate. Use a rubber mallet to tap on spindle to loosen it. Once you have the spindle removed the axle shaft should pull out.
7.Replace u-joints. (Internal clip)
8.Reassemble in reverse order. Repack/replace wheel bearings while you have it apart.

Chilton manual has decent procedure to get the spindle off. Follow the torque specs when tightening the nuts that hold the spindle on.

HTH
Matt

 

Thanks Matt. I'm going to try to get it done sometime this week so your instructions should really help. Appreciate it

-Steve

 

Ditto to what was posted above.

You may have to bend up a little tab on the washer behind the outer wheel bearing nut in order to loosen the second nut. I did not have to do this on my 30, I guess because it never was bent over.

Also I like to put the wheel bearing nuts back onto the spindle in order to give a solid surface to whack on with the mallet. Just something to help prevent damaging the threads from a misplaced blow.

 

Just as a side note coat the mating surfaces of the spindle with anti-seize it will make the process much easier if you ever need to take them off again

 

I also like pre packing the bearing cups with some nice thick grease to help hold the little needle bearings in place. It's a real bummer when they fall on the floor.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Hopefully it'll go smoothly

-Steve

 

I noticed that on the 78 shafts I put in my 73 D30, the outer shaft had a dust shield and a seal that went on it. This sealed up against the back of the spindle. My 73 shafts did not have this seal, only the spindle seal itself.

 

I finally got around to pulling the axles out of the Jeep yesterday. I ended up having to order the 2 1/16" socket from 4wd Hardware to get the spindle nuts off. Someone in the past used the hammer and chisel method and scarred up the nuts. The local auto parts store wanted $7 a nut for the new ones. I think I'll just take a file to the old ones and make them work . The passenger side came apart with no fuss. I used a rubber mallet and a 2x4 to get the spindle off. The driver side is another story. I ended up going the three pound hammer route and pounding the crap out of it for about an hour. It eventually lost the battle, but it was close 8). When I went to remove the U-joints from the axles I tried both the hammer method and the sockets/vise method. There's no telling how long those things have been in there and they didn't want to budge. I even took the previously mentioned 3lb hammer to the bench vise and couldn't get them to move. I don't want to risk bending an ear. If I'm not mistaken there is such a thing as a U-joint press, correct? I called around trying to find someone with such a machine (or that knew what a U-joint was ) and got some really weird responses. No one around here seems to do it. I think I was most disappointed in the local 4wd shop. I asked if they had a press, was put on hold while they asked someone, then they asked me "if it was on one of those knuckle things". I told them they were axles out of a D30 and all I needed were for the joints to be removed. They then asked me what kind of truck (like it really matters), punched it into the computer, and told me $60 a joint. I'm not paying that, but what should I do? I want to get this thing back together within a week or so. Thanks for your help

-Steve

 

I wouldn't pay that shop either, good grief !!!
I assume you did remove the internal c-clips from the u-joint brg caps
maybe a good soaking in penetrating oil and/or a little heat applied
whatever press is used, you do need to support the ears/yoke whille pressing the joint in/out

 

Use a standard hydraulic press... Your local auto parts store and/or machine shop should be able to help you. Removal and replacement of axle bearings is the most common job for a press. Shouldn't cost more than, say, $10 a side - it's an easy job. Just go in person and show them what you need, preferably early in the day and not on the weekend.

If you try the vise and drift again, just support the yoke, don't squish it with the vise.

hth

 

I did remove all of the clips from the inside of the caps. I have the joints soaking in liquid wrench at the moment, so hopefully it'll help. I'm going to see if I can't get someone to do it Monday morning. I have another question - What type of axleshafts came in a '74 D30? Like I said, it's obvious that someone has been inside of them before but I noticed that on the ears of the shaft they're stamped "SPICER". It also had Spicer U-joints. Are these the original axleshafts? I'm pretty sure that Spicer U-joints were OE, but I don't know about the shafts themselves. Thanks

-Steve

 

Spicer is a wholly owned brand of Dana Corp. http://www.spicerchassis.com/history.htm

I'd guess they're original.

 

I'm absorbing all this as the D30 sitting in my garage is eager to be used. $60/joint? What is that, $240/hr posted labor rate? They didn't want to bother with rusty parts so they quoted you a rediculas rate to see if you would bite or go away.

I'm keeping my eyes open for a 3.73 Powerlock for mine. It is a 1979 vintage with the "small" 7/8" rotors and a 2.xx ratio. Joe, do you run 1.25" wheel spacers in the rear to equalize your track?

 

I'm gonna throw my same old answer out here, Why, since the older jeeps are basically the only 4x4 ever built in this country with the front axle track the same as the rear. The 72 thru whatever jeeps always had a wider front track than rear as do Chevy, Ford and Dodge trucks, the narrow track Jeep rear axle never changed width. People say it looks funny, but don't notice it on the 72 and newer Jeeps.

Since I just rebuilt my dana 30 completely 2 weeks ago here is whats in it, you have an inner bearing for the carrier, inner seal, then you have the axle shaft, there is a seal and a dust cover on the inside of the spindle that is on the axle shaft along with a plastic bushing if the axle has disks, then there is a caged needle bearing inside the spindle, then your normal crap for the spindles and then your locking hub. This is what was on my 77 model dana 30 with the 1 1/8" thick disks.

 

Brian there caged needle bearings, meaning there not loose but just like wheelbearings in a metal or plastic cage to contain them.