Rust Repair

I recently have dismantled my commando, and have it lying around on the garage floor. I have taken on the ENORMOUS task of rust repair. I have taken everything to get media blasted. Most everything has come back really nice except... the windshield frame. I knew I would have some work to do around the defrost vents but when I got it back there are many (more than 20) pin holes where it rusted through. The holes are smaller than a pencil eraser. Here is what I need to know.

1. Since I have had it sandblasted to bare metal could I simply use body filler on the holes? (I can already hear many of you groaning already) I don't know if I have stopped the rust with sandblasting or simply put it on hold. If I need to weld all these holes I might as well look for a clean one.

Which leads me to ...

2. Are all the windshield frames the same? I think they are all the same from 67 - 73, right? Mine is a convertible, does that matter? I have all the hardware, is the base frame the same?

Thanks for the help.

 

1-Here's the thing, you may have got all the rust off the outside, it's the rust on the inside that will give you grief down the road. Of course that may not happen for quite a few years so it's really a judgment call on your part how to proceed.
2-The windshield frame from a 72/73 will work on a Jeepster, just the defroster vent holes are larger on a Bullnose so that's not an issue. However, always a however, Vert frames are slightly different. The holes for the header on a vert don't line up with the holes on a non vert frame. You could for all practical purposes redrill the holes in the header to line up with the holes in a non vert frame, if you were really stuck.

 

My opinion, from what little I know of this stuff, you've got to weld it. Filler needs to be sealed from both sides, or else it will soak up humidity and the bondo surface in contact with steel will rust. Then the bondo lets go and falls out. If you want, you can weld up the holes and bondo over the welds to smooth it out. The solid steel and the top coat will seal the bondo.

If you really don't want to weld, I think that filling the holes with epoxy (ie JB Weld, LabMetal, Mighty Putty) is a much better solution. BTW Mighty Putty is just a popularization of commercial epoxy putty... should be available from places like MSC, McMaster-Carr and so forth.

<edit> Also, the fiberglass-filled body putties are waterproof, so you could use that. Would probably be easier to work with than epoxy.

If you want some expert opinions, post on the autobody101 forums. Lots of very skilled paint&body guys on there.

 

post up over on the JCCA....there might be somebody close to you with a good complete frame for a vert or at least be able to point you in the right direction

 

I converted a standard windshield frame for my 68 convertible. You need to drill new holes for the header to bolt in to. You need to have threaded holes for the header bolts. Sheet metal screws just didn't cut it in my opinion. I used threaded nut inserts that you put in with a special tool that looks sort of like a pop rivet gun.

I would try cutting out the metal and welding in a replacement piece first. If you can't do this yourself you could drop the windshield frame off at a body shop and they could do it for you. One of the guys in the shop might like to make a little money on the side.

Nick

 

So this weekend I was watching those Saturday mechanic car repair shows, and they had the same problem. They busted out the Silicon bronze filler rod. Bronze melts at a lower temperature than steel, therefore less burn through and less distortion. Has anyone used Silicon Bronze? Any opinions? One problem is, it is pricey $20 a pound, I got a new windshield frame for $40. I do have other areas that this is cost/time effective. I will try it and share my results.

Also a question for Nickwarchol the frame I got was not a convertible frame and came to the same conclusion. I need to attach the header to the frame I thought I would try sheet metal screws because I could not come up with a good way to install a captive nut. Does this look like what you used ?
http://www.avkfasteners.com/products.AK.php
Does this look like the tool you used to install them?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200308963_200308963&issearch=55868

 

I used bronze and an acetylene torch years ago on my GPW. I warped every panel.
You have to be careful about heating up a panel for welding or even melting lead because without practice you will distort it.
For rust try to go with the process of cutting it out, welding in new, smoothing with a flapper disc and final smoothing with a small amount of bondo if needed.
Also when you have all of your welding done, flow some primer or POR15 into all of the seams then after it dries get your final sandblasting done. That way you have some protection in the areas that will never see paint.
Prime/surface with epoxy primer and use the paint of your choice.

 

I order the bronze as wire for a MIG. I was told by the welding supply the Argon/CO2 mix will work fine. I have no idea how this will work or if I am in over my head. The holes I have are all over the windshield frame, so I got a new one and the old one will be used for practicing. The tailgate has a couple of pinholes all located in a small area also some in the cargo area. I will try and get some before and after pics. Thanks for everyone’s two cents.

 

Interesting, you'll have to keep us up dated on this. Have used bronze filler for years, learned a lot from my dad and a couple of old body guys. Never heard of bronze Mig wire so of course had to go checking for info on the web. Found THIS, has some good info. I'll probably stick with with oxy/acetylene brazing and plain old Mig but hey, I'm always open to new ideas .
That tool and the inserts you linked to are what you'd be looking for, much preferred to sheet metal screws to attach the header. Bought one of those last year at HF, haven't had the chance to use it yet although I did use my buddies when I was installing the roof on my Half Cab. Jeep used those inserts in the body just behind the door openings where the hard top and the half cab tops bolt on.

 

I ran into this on my 68' just this winter....bother of the sides down near the edge of the dash had rot. Cut the perforation back to metal that's at least "credit card" thick and then turn your MIG welder down low, low, low, low and spot weld very, very slowly. You will burn through at spots...just be careful. Grind down and bondo makes a nice aluminum filler material that you can buy at AutoZone or anywhere..it's expensive but hard as a rock and a b!tch to smooth down and sand so use it very nicely. This is what I did and it worked well. If you can lead and feel confident with heat application....that's another good way to go. Once the metal's been perforated by sandblasting...you really have to cut back all the perforation...you'll just burn right through that in a heartbeat.. My tailgate was swiss-cheesed everywhere at the bottom.

 

I got to the garage today and tried the Silicon Bronze MIG wire. I ordered wire from a local welding supply and paid $42 and change for 2 lbs of 0.023. (Later I found it online cheaper) I have a Lincoln 115v MIG using 75/25 Argon/Co2 mix and ran it at about 22 psi. I had the voltage set on the lowest setting and the feed set at 2.5-3. Here is what I ended up with.

Before


After

I was happy with the results. I got a rust free windshield frame for $2 less than I paid for the wire. I don’t think it is a viable option for filling my Swiss cheese frame. But I will definitely use it on my dash and tailgate.

 

Looks good, may have to see if I can find some of that.