Pink Picnic JEEP

Too bad about the KH's, saw a 1970 Chevelle pull the lug nuts thru the wheel once, not pretty. Would a late model "bulge type" lug nut take care of it or will it need to be welded up?
In an offhand conversation with a young woman she mentioned that if her Dad gave her a pink car to drive it would still be in the garage. Yellow is my daughter's favorite color. Considering Michigan Yellow. Does anyone have pictures of one? If we put in red seats it would look like the Matchbox #72.

 

Unloading from winter storage. Showing the windshield/hard cover.



Cut in half for easier storage.



Added five inches of front seat legroom. Is it now a DJ5.25?



Factory boxing piece from other postal jeep on the floor.



Tipped up for easier welding.

 

the 5 inches will be nice once its done.

 

Have the cowl and part of the floor mocked up on the extended frame. Got a long legged buddy to try it out today. Said he could drive it that way. Then I had him move the seat all the way back and he couldn't reach the pedals!

 

Still noodling on rear wheel spacers that use the old style tapered axle flanges.
Here is a early direct scale version that a fellow at work drew up on his computer. Half of the hole sizes have changed because now I will be using Holo-Chrome 61060 1/2-20 flat head cap screws instead of Chrysler disc brake wheel studs. 82 degree taper and tapped for threads.



Was planning on getting some 1-1/2" thick slices of 7" diameter 6061 aluminum at the local Metal-by-the-Foot for $22 each. Would have a friend face one side, find the center, transfer the points with a punch and drill pilot holes with a drill press. Then have him bore the center hole out and finish down the opposite face to .900 thick total plus the .355 flange equals 1.250, give or take.
After having some raw aluminum transfercase crossmember spacers corrode horribly on our XJ, I realized why good stuff outdoors gets anodized. I also would like to have the 6061 heat treated to T6 if that is the correct term. The local treaters would do it for $.62 a pound. Sadly they have a $100 minimum charge.
Another friend who is more aligned with "precision as a religion" suggested I make them out of cold-rolled steel. Why not make them out of titanium while we're at it?
Metal-by-the-Foot only has hot rolled steel, at $37 each for the same size which would do away with the anodize/heat treat concern. I realize that cold rolled has a better outside finish and is harder, just think that boring 11 holes in it would cause warpage from the built up stress. Don't really care about the true outside size or finish anyway.
Here is a picture of the cut off tapered axle plates that I plan to incorporate as seen in the above sketch.

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The back side has not been cut down to size yet. Planned to heat the adaptors and freeze these and press them together using nuts on the studs. Then would drill the pilot holes thru from the back side and would then have to drill the 1-1/8" holes thru the face for lugnut clearance. Not looking forward to that. Would you use locking compound or tack weld?
Does anyone have any OBOE (Opinion Based On Experience) comments or suggestions?
Other than buy the spacers machined in China, that look like sidewinder cupholders.
I will post the finish scale drawing when I get them, if anyone is interested.

 

that's what she said
I like the tow pig, neat looking.

 

While digging thru my Dad's stuff that ended up in my garage, came across a old universal chrome buckle seat belt. That got me considering options for ours. Looked on ebay and they have several similar products in two point lap belts in various colors.
We are going to run a 60/40 front bench and would like to have my daughter be able to sit in the middle when she out grows her car seat. Found this website while trolling for answers.
http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/am4point.html
They have the standard lap belts and also a three point with chrome buckles which might be just the answer for all three front positions. They also have special Jeep seat belts with lever style latches. Has anyone used Wesco Performance products? They also may be buying them from someone else, do they look familiar? Less than $200 for all three that would look vintage, and be new & safe as reasonably possible. Sounds like a deal unless I hear otherwise.
My cobb job CJ5 had the snap coupler style floor mounts. That makes sense to me on a vehicle that might get hosed out. Was that the factory stock setup?
As always, thanks.

 

Haven't got much done lately, got another pair of KH 15x8's and an M170 front sway bar(which looks much like a Jeepster type) from some members here.
Thanks fellows!
Did find some old decals to help stoke the old school cool vibe. While the left coast might be the hot bed of Jeeping, was looking for something from the MidWest. I got some NOS Champion decals from the era, a Toledo based company. Were they the original factory supplier for JEEP?

Also found some Western Auto decals (hometown KC company, now defunct). Didn't think much more about Davis tires, until I found this one in the trunk of a junked '64 Galaxie.


Looks a lot like a Gates or Armstrong style tread to me.

A Bias ply Davis Traction Sentry G78-15 made in 1972. Some slight weather checking, but should be fine for an in-town spare. A Google search shows this tire pattern as early as 1963, so it fits my vintage dune buggy theme just fine.
Also have some Stewart-Warner decals, any other suggestions of have-to-have decals from that era?

 

I had a Hurst shifter decal and a Kendall GT1. And everyone had to have a STP sticker.

 

I really have been working on the JEEP, just not enough. Goal is to drive my daughter to her first day of Kindergarten August 17th, not likely. Also a big Labor Day trip planned to the US Natls in Indy.
Looks worse than it is, and probably always will. Mocking up parts to check for interference is dragging me down. That and the heat, and humidity, and digging out the foundation of our house. Would say I am doing it by hand, but do have a shovel.
Here is a photo after checking that the body was lengthened the same as the frame. Got it quite close, now to patch the sides and weld in the floor.

 

I'm still baffelled by that Ramcharger, LOL.....

 

I went to Inland Truck to get the 1410 driveshaft shortened this morning, 23-3/4" total length. Stopped by some junk yards on the way home and found a Datsun 240Z that was pretty much picked over, except the front side marker lights. While I don't really mind the looks of the front factory marker lights on a later model CJ. I hate the fact that most of the replacement fenders are stamped for them, and nearly every fender flare kit is cut out for them (fits 55-85) really? My 1969 DJ had them, somewhat bashed, so I filled in the holes with patches off the cobb job 1969 CJ5 fenders. I also know that we are not a large enough market to make it worth while, just grousing.
Anyway back to the Datsun marker lamp, think they will look pretty good on the hood, they are tapered nearly the same. Will have to make a quick connect if I use the removable hood hinges. Here is a link to eBay to see to what I refer. Also fits 510's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-260-280Z-Front-Side-Marker-Light-1974-1978-OEM-/200650529948?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item2eb7b41c9c

 

Working on it a little at a time. Replacing the spring bushings on the frame brackets. Drug out a tool I made earlier after wiping away the tears from hammering on a stuck shackle bolt and bending the bracket instead. Scale model press that brings the thunder to a small space. If I was to do it over, would make the clearance hole where the ram passes thru bigger. Worked fine on pushing out the stuck bolt, pushing the bushing causes some of the rubber to foul the Acme threads of the jack. I cut enough off of the adjuster post to still be able to use the jack as intended, although somewhat shorter.

 

Where it ended this year before I put it away for winter. Picture makes the paint look nicer than it is, much nicer.
After grinding off too much bondo, I rebeled and didn't use any plastic filler, and it shows.
Brushed on some zinc chromate primer and then Rustoleum Sunburst yellow to get some protection.
Also had to exchange the pinion seal, they sold me one for a Grand Cherokee, not even close to the same.
With some dedication on my part, should be a happening thing next Spring. Maybe 2012 won't be so rainy.
Certainly should be able to take my daughter to the first day of First Grade. As well as pizza and ice cream.

 

Nice! You've come a long way and I like the color.

 

Thanks for the kind words. A NP542 is a huge transmission with an even bigger bellhousing. Here is my attempt at a mechanical bellcrank linkage.



Here is a shot of the outrigger I made to still use the frame mounted pedals.



Feel the pedals are a big part of Early Jeepness, and don't want to crowd the engine compartment with modern upgrades. Also trying to provide room for three across in the front. Since it is more of a street rod than an offroader, think I can get away with the somewhat exposed master cylinder. It is the frame rail from the damaged CJ-5 frame. The passenger side is mostly because I like things to match and to stiffen the splice(s) somewhat. At least provide some warning if they crack. Also to support the rickety tub and side steps



It may not be right, but its mine.

 

Wow. This is excellent!

Love all the builds, jeeps, dodges...

Keep us posted!
D

 

Howdy, these photos are in reference to discussions about drop steering arms, and the M-170 front and rear sway bars. Steering arm is from a late 80's GM midsize with power steering. The splined end fit the Saginaw manual steering box perfectly, without any clocking issue. The tie rod side had to be reamed out to the standard taper size. Needed it to clear the bar, and am quite pleased with the resulting steering angle. Factory Postal JEEP arm was dead flat. Springs are vintage Rancho Freedom Riders, purchased used from a member here.



Also shown is the factory M-170 front swaybar with brackets (green). It originally mounted farther back with the links behind the axle and the shocks in front. Mine has the shocks to the rear from the factory to clear the drag link. The spring plates are the DJ-5 fronts turned front to back using the shock studs for the swaybar links, which are from an XJ Cherokee, blue top bushings, red bottom. I added new shock studs figuring it would have less effect if they weren't perfectly symetrical. The frame brackets that the bar bolts to were sourced from a mid-70's Dodge van front swaybar attachment.
They could be made fairly easy, I was just being lazy. Muffler location is temporary.



This is a shot of the rear sway or anti-sway bar, depending on which way you lean.



It originally mounted behind the axle with the arms pointing forward as seen in an earlier picture. I had it that way and did not like the way it blocked the area behind the axle. I am looking to put a propane tank or tool box in that location. The "W" frame brackets are factory, somewhat bent to match the straight part of the fame instead of stepped. They could be left off for additional pinion clearance if the shocks were not there. The links are the ones from the front bar. Needed to be shorter because I am running 2 thick leaves instead of 13 thin ones.




It is somewhat confusing, so if it is not clear please ask.