Opinions on possible limited slip situation

Looking for any opinions about a problem I'm having with the D44 in my 73 CJ. I just completed the re-build on the CJ which included a gear ratio change and the installation of an Auburn limited slip. When I push or drive forward it seems like the brakes are dragging . Everything seems free when going in the reverse direction, but when powering forward slowly and the clutch is thrown, it will slow down like the brakes are being applied a little. At that point if I get out and try pushing, it has the same effect as if the brakes are partially applied. I adjusted the brakes to be fully retracted, so I know they're not dragging.
Just looking to see if anyone else has experienced this siutuation and what can be done, except for tearing it all apart again.
I was hoping to have it on the road this spring after a three year rebuild, but this could set me back quite a while until my ambition level returns. Pretty discouraging to say the least.:?:?

Thanks for any insight,
Rick

 

Is it in 4wd? If it is and you have different ratios then it could be driveline binding.

Oh and when you put lube in the rear diff, did you put in the friction modifier?

 

The ratios front and rear are 4:11. I added the friction modifier that Auburn included along with the diff lube. This is in 2WD, I haven't tried 4WD at this point. The front hubs are unlocked as well. I think the front is pretty well out of the equation.

 

I even noticed in in the garage, when it was just the frame with running gear installed, that it did the same thing If you try to push it forward it will start dragging after about a 6 inch travel. If it is just binding some because it's new, can I assume that using it around the yard slowly will solve the problem? I'm not trying to put anyone on the spot, just trying to get reasonable solutions. I REALLY don't want to have to rip into it for nothing.
All suggestions welcome!!

 

Unless he has two hugely different diameter tires on the rear (which I doubt, but is worth mentioning)...

 

Unfortunately all the tires are the same size. I wouldn't mind driving with it to loosen it up, if that would help. The part that made me think it was related to the limited slip is the fact that when I try to push it forward I get resistance, but not in reverse. It's like the clutches are grabbing. I wouldn't think the set-up on the gears would cause this effect when only moving 4 to 6 inches in the forward direction.
I'm going to try jacking both rear wheels off the ground on Monday and see if I can feel the binding when I turn the driveshaft by hand in the forward direction. I don't know if that's actually duplicating the conditions, since the both wheels will have no resistance. I'll give it a try anyway, to try and isolate the problem.
I'm hoping that it's just a tight situation that would work itself out without destroying something first.

 

Sounds to me like a warped ring gear, bent pinion, dented dust cover, or bad u-joint sorta issue. The limited slip shouldn't have anything to do with it. Does it still do it with the driveshaft disconnected? Did you setup the gears or someone else? Where they used? Is it possible the side bearings were not sitted all the way? Does it only do it after 6 inches or does it bind in the same place rotation wise? Mark the yoke and see if there is a clocking pattern to the binding.

 

I reread your description about it not doing it in reverse. Is it possible there is too much clearance in the pinion bearing causing it to bury further in the ring gear going forward?

 

The gears are new, I did the set-up and I haven't tried it with the driveshaft disconnected yet. I can try that when I lift the rear on Monday, as well as marking the rotation. From what I remember, when it binds, I can move the vehicle slightly back to release it and sometimes get it to go forward without binding for a longer travel.
When I did the set-up, I was able to get all the correct tooth patterns in the marking grease, but maybe that's not really telling me the whole story. I was going along with the idea that if the patterns came out OK that the set-up was fine. This thinking could be completely wrong and it could be that I messed up the gear install. I don't have a problem admitting that, I just am trying to find an easier to swallow answer to the problem. If it's going to require a complete teardown again, it'll have to wait until next fall as I don't have the time now.
I know it's hard to determine the actual solution with what I've given for info here, but any of these suggestions offer me some hope for a quick and dirty fix (if there is one).
After three years of working on the CJ, I'd like to finally get to use it.

 

what size and make up of tire (radial or bias) are you using? if you are using a big bias tire check the tire pressure bias tires can have major differances in tire pressure and and not look it. I found this out the hard way. Had all kind of proplems untill I checked TP found the RS 30psi LS 10psi filled the tire and all was well . I know you said it doesn t do it in revers but how far are you moving it ? It might be just enough to unload if you went father in R in might do the same thing. I would definatlly be leaning toward a bent housing instead of wrong set up. If TP is right and housing looks straight drive it and see what happens .

 

Sounding a lot like this. Couldn't be the LS, even welding the spiders won't cause this when going straight. Did you set it up initially w/ a dial or just try to count on the pattern? Pushing in reverse (no torque on pinion) will tend to push the pinion away from the ring gear and pushing forward will tend to draw it in. When you pull the driveshaft check the runout of the pinion. If there's any noticeable back and forth movement you've found your problem.:v6:

 

Well I'll definitely check out all the suggestions I've been given and I'd like to thank all those that offered help.
Thanks,
Rick

 

If you do have a lot of pinion runout (back & forth), recheck the tightness of the pinion nut. It might be as simple as a false reading when you torqued it down.

 

Yep, that is one that came to my mind. Total play for the pinion shaft is critical.

Also, do you have e-brake on the rear drums??? They will cause the same situation if not adjusted correctly.

 

That's exactly what was happening. After driving it around for a while, it started acting normal. I can now move it forward without any drag at all. It just took about 1 mile of activity to rectify the problem. Never having had a LSD before, I didn't know what to expect. Just started to work properly today.

Thanks to all those that chimed in with suggestions, you guys saved me a lot of unnecessary work!!!
Rick

 

I installed a brand new Auburn when I changed gear ratios in my CJ-5 4 or so years ago. I never pushed the Jeep around by hand before running it so I don't know if there was a problem like you describe. One thing I do know is that for the first couple miles, I could feel that the LS was tight going around turns especially if there was loose gravel on the road. Once all the oil gets distributed in the unit, it smoothens out. The Auburn seems to perform very well compared to the old TracLok.

 

The reason I was pushing it by hand is it was only a rolling chassis in the garage. My original thoughts were that it was a dragging brake and didn't give it another thought until I had it running. Then I could feel it stop a little faster than just free rolling when I got off the gas, that's when I started pushing it again to check for binding.
As you said, like in your case, after driving it cautiously for a short distance it started operating properly.

 

From reading your symptoms, it sounds like maybe your brakes needed to settle in with a little drive and full stopping actuation and some revrese with full stopping actuation.

The binding forward and releasing in reverse made me think that it was the servo action of the shoes.

Glad its resolved itself