putting the pieces back together

Does anybody have a list of the step-by-step on assembling a '75 CJ-5 back together. We've documented, photoed, bagged/labeled during the disassemble, the frame and body panels/tub are in the process of being media blasted, and the engine and transmission is in the process of being overhauled. Once we get the frame back, we'll prime and paint, but I just thought it would be a good thing to look at somebody's list of step-by-step in butting the jeep back together...like rewire, set engine, trans, etc. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

I've never seen a list. My steps, after tearing down to the frame, was to rebuild from the bottom up, making sure everything was cleaned/blasted and painted along the way. I'm not done yet, but the axles are complete, and mounted. The engine and trans/driveline is installed. The body is being repaired, once that is done and painted, then it will be mounted, then the exhaust will be done (by somebody else), then the wiring done. Finally all the interior stuff will be done. Short and sweet.

Certain things, like wiring, can't be done before body is complete, unless you like taking it all off again. I'm doing the exhaust toward the end because I want to be sure the pipe's are bent and hung without any other interference.

Hope this helps a little.

 

wouldn't there be a portion of any wiring completed prior to the body being mounted. Don't the brake lines need to be installed prior to mounting the body, as well? Thanks for the help so far.

 

In answer to your question, Yes I suppose you could. It would just mean leaving your wires extra length with no connectors until you put the tub (body) on. At which time you would then determine how long the wires had to be and make all your connections. I made my harness in three pieces. 1-under the hood, 2-interior and 3-back to the rear lights. The three harness can be separated to facilitate removal of the tub. With the tub being on the frame, I was able to determine exactly where the 3 harnesses needed to connect to each other. Not so easy if the body is sitting on saw horses. Unless you just like using a tape measure. Don't forget to take plenty of pics and post them in the Builds and Fabrication section of the forum. We get all giddy when someone post pics around here.

 

thanks

 

You have the right idea. Brake lines are below the body so they would go on before the body...in my bottom up steps...along with the fuel lines. The sequence of events is entirely up to you...I think that you'll see that certain things can't be done before others, or at least not without significant re-work.

Think about how you took it all apart, and it probably goes back in a similar order.

 

reverse order is the way, I know, but part of the really great piece of this forum is the depth of information by qualified folks. I enjoy searching and learning on this forum and probably spend to much time on it. Thanks for the help. I'll post pics soon. By the way, is it true that local auto parts store will be able to order engine parts just as good or better that the shops listed on this site? Also, painting the body prior to installation is a scary thought considering we need to mount it to the frame without scratching.

 

I've used this forum for years now and find it invaluable to my rebuild too. Certainly your local auto parts store probably has access to name brand/high quality parts. Depending on what it is you are trying to purchase, e.g. the balljoints for a standard rebuild people usually recommend either MOOG or SPICER brand, and not the store brand because it is an item that takes a lot of stress. Other parts, maybe not so much. I think the Jeep specialty shops have their own niche for Jeep parts that are more difficult to find, like an Dana 30 axle dust shield for instance.

I've got 2 teenage sons, plus a son-in-law that are all big enough to help me muscle the body down gently to the frame after painting. Gotta get those boys in the weight room!

 

I painted mine in pieces to insure complete coverage. Easier to get OVER-UNDER-INSIDE of every area. Since I am an old fart and no help, I found it easier to handle in pieces. Slow and easy and no scratches.

 

I've been told that final bodywork and painting should be done with the body bolted down to the frame. This way the final stresses are on the body.

If not, funny things can happen to a freshly painted body, when it's bolted down later, especially if Bondo is used.

I have no evidence of this, just hearsay...but it seems to make sense...

Any thoughts on this?

Rich

 

Thanks for the help. I'm working with my three boys on this, too...when I can get them to focus on it long enough. It's been a lot of fun so far.

 

I've never done body work before, however, since I've installed new panels and what not, I can't imagine that doing body work like Bondo or paint off the frame will make a difference. It's a solid steel body that doesn't really flex enough to make a big difference...in my inexperienced opinion.

 

I always put parts(fenders quarters etc)with the frame on the tires and on the ground it helps with stress cracks Ive got 15 years as a certified master autobody tech but run equipment now.....way better for the lungs.....

 

If you still want "a List", then this is how I put CJs together. This assumes that all components are competed and ready for install (like axles as a unit, transmission, rebuilt or painted,etc.)This is in no way COMPLETE, just the basics

1. Frame on floor upside down, install all brackets (hangers, PS mounts, bump stops, belly pan, swaybar, etc)
2. Flip frame and place on jackstands, install springs at main eye only with springs hanging down. Slid in axles and raise up enough to install shackels. Lower axles, center up, and install U bolts/spring plates/ shocks, etc.
3. Install wheels to make a rolling chassis. Install all fuel and brake lines. Install gas tank and exhaust if it is still bolted together. If not, it can wait. Also install engine mounts and shock towers (if 82 to 86).
4. On the floor, bolt up flywheel/clutch/trans/and trans mount all together as a unit to the engine with its mounts. It is much easier to line it all up while out of the jeep and with you above/beside it and not under it trying to hold it up. Wait on the t case. Leave shift lever off the transmission for now.
5.Lower engine onto frame and line up the 3 mounts. With t case in gear, install it as you rotate the rear yoke to find the spline engagement vs the mounting studs. Install front and rear driveshafts.
6.Install the rear wiring harness under the tub into its clips. With body mounts places, install tub. install tub bolts loosely, about half way only. For the front clip, install and allign the hood first to the tub. The gap from one side to the other should be straight and even, about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Next, center the grill (with radiator installed) under the hoods front curve. If the grills bottom mount doesn't center up on the frame mount, shift tub to compensate. check rear of tub against the rear crossmember for allignment as well. Install fenders and check gap under the hood vs the height of the fender relative to the tub. I only install two bolts per body part till all is lined up. Then tighten all bolts and install all fender supports. Upper windshield hinges are best installed at this time as there are nuts behind the dash. Make them straight and even vs the top of the tub cowl. The WS frame has floating nuts for adjustment, OR the hinges can be the adjustment point. Be careful as the door will need adjusting too at it too uses floating nut plates.
7. Install roll bar and tailgate/hardware. Install parking brake cables etc. ..and shifter levers, gas filler, etc. Install the pedal unit, but wait on the upper plate as the wire harness goes above it. Install the heater box and the upper air box now. wait on the cables. With dash face down on a padded surface, install all gauges and wiring. install and speakers and glove box. Install dash as the main harness goes above pedal unit (behind the dash/pedal plate). Again, i only use a bolt at each end incase I need to get behind it again. Install all remaining cables, vents, ducts, etc. Protect dash with a cloth as you slide the steering collumn through.
8. The rest is basic stuff like seats/seat brackets, doors, top. you get the idea.

 

Thanks so much. This is exactly what I've been looking for. By the way, what type of body bolts and wiring harness did you use? Does length of body bolts vary depending on what height lift kit you have? Thanks again.

 

I always use OEM wiring harness or buy a good (uncut) used one. I know they are old, but I haven't seen an aftermarket one with truely the correct plugs and length or placement of wires.
While the factory had the tub and front clip together first, then painted, and placed on the frame. I prefer having the panels painted seperately as paint will cover the mating edges, inside corners, and underside areas. Just have a few helping hands lower the tub and be careful and take your time on the front clip. On an older Jeep such as the CJ, I would go so far as to do a mock up prepaint OR at least make sure every bolt hole is clean and has good threads for the assembly. You don't want to be drilling holes or bending/tweeking freshly painted parts.
For bolts, once again, I use the OEM grade 5 or better flanged nuts and flanged bolts. Even as early as the 75 CJ, they used torx bolts in the hinges. Body mounts are standard, but watch the body bushing kits for these older Jeeps as the aftermarket "kits" are really lacking in terms of quality. Sometimes I modify the later YJ/TJ body bushings to go in earlier applications. The length of these bolts are determined by the body mount size or IF your using a body lift kit OR taller bushings. I personlly don't like body lifts more than one inch. Are you going back to stock or built up for trail with this build? If stock or street use, I would go with a combo of rubber and poly bushings. Rubber on the body, main eye, and motor mounts and poly on the transmission, shackle, and swaybar (if you have one). I know my 75 CJ-6 doesn't and will will add one later.

 

Thanks again. Just to make sure I understand about the body mounts. Say I want to use the Totally Stainless Fastner Kit, #62112 from Krage withn 458 pcs along with the Totally Stainless Body Washer Kit, #64270, with 8 pcs.; and the Prothane Body Mount Kit, #1-109 with 18 pcs. I'd like to consider a body mount lift of 2" or so. Can I use the bolts from the Fastner Kit or do I need longer bolts? To confuse the situation even more, when we purchased the jeep, the previous owner told us that it had a 4" lift. At the time, I didn't know enough to inquire about asking if it was a body or suspension lift. So now, I'm still trying to figure out if I have a suspension lift on the existing frame and suspension. Everything except the leaf springs, shocks, axles, and tires are off the frame at this point as we plan on getting the frame media blasted soon. We plan on leaving these parts on the frame and covering them as necessary during the blasting. Is there a way to tell if there is a suspension lift when I look at the set up as I've described? Also, if we determine that there is a suspension lift, I can assume that we'll just go with the standard Totally Stainless Fastner Kit as I've listed above? Sorry for the long winded reply. I guess I should just call the previous owner and ask him what type of lift was on the Jeep, duh. Thanks

 

Recommendations:

- Install brake lines and TWO metal fuel lines onto the frame before the body that run from the front to the rear. Cap the one of the fuel lines on each end. If you ever switch to FI, you'll thank me that now you do not need to add a fuel return line.

- Prep, bead blast, prime, and paint everything correctly. I rattlecanned a few things, and they look rattlecanned. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.

- If you are going fiberglass, do ONE ground mounting point in the rear, middle, and front of the Jeep. Otherwise, you'll have a bunch of little pigtail grounds going to the frame in multiple places. Once again, it's easier to make ground mounting points with the body off!

- Make certain you engine rear seal, and all your tranny and xfer case seals are good BEFORE putting the tub on. I have a small leak somewhere that I will end up pulling the body to diagnose and fix.

- Some things need to be done before others. I had the main tub bolted down, and PLANNED on starting the Jeep for the 1st time that day. BUT, I needed the battery hooked up. Before I could hook up the battery, I needed a battery tray installed. Before I could install the battery tray, I needed to know where it went so it wouldnt interfere with the heater. Therefore, I needed the heater installed so I knew where the batt tray went. Before I could install the heater, I needed to modify the back of it. Before I could bolt in the heater, I needed to know where it went on the inside of the firewall, so I needed the fresh air intake duct hooked up. Before I could do all that, I needed the fresh air intake bolted in. Of course, that means I needed a hole cut in the cowl, as well as screws and a fresh air intake grate.

SO, in summary, in order to start a Jeep, you need to cut a hole in the cowl, to mount the fresh air intake, to hook up the air intake duct, to know where the heater goes, so you know what to cut off the backside of the heater, so you know where the battery tray goes, so you can set the battery on it, so you can crank your Jeep over..