Dana 18 rebuild, help please.

I am in the process of rebuilding my Dana 18. I am trying to split the high/low section from the main case and cannot get them to come apart. they are hanging up on something. Any instructions would be appreciated.

 

Are you using the Dana 18 rebuild guide?

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCase/Model18TransferCase.html

 

Ok thanks for the link. Found something else interesting.....while pressure washing there was some yellow what appeared to be a paint glob on the side of the case. I tried to grind it off while I was working on the TC. Well its brass........does that mean the TC has been brazed together? Everything appears ok inside gear wise. When I get it completely apart and clean I can shine a light inside and see if I can see a crack.

 

Sounds like a crack or break was brazed up. I'd get it apart and thoroughly cleaned then evaluate it.

 

So I got it apart everything looks ok. I also found another Dana 18 with twin sticks and a good ebrake assembly (mine was gone). I was going to add the twins sticks to mine and the ebrake but this is a 1 1/8" case vs my 1 1/4". Also difference in Trans opening size. So can I change this case out or not?

This case is a Spicer Lipe? (cannot make it out until it gets cleaned) Model 18, has a tag on the top. Kind of different. Anyone know anything about these?

 

Should be a Brown and Lipe case. There was just a thread covering them. Might search on that. If your parts are ok I'd add the twin stick and park brake to yours. A 1 1/8" intermediate case if stock would be the 26 tooth input gear set and yours "should" be the 29 tooth which is better/stronger imho. You can't arbitrarily change the case input size without making other changes. The large hole 1 1/4" intermediate case is better in anyway so if yours is in good shape use it. You "could" have the 1 1/8" case machined to the large hole specs but it's a down grade. Again, I'd take the parts from the small hole case you need and put them on the large hole 1 1/4" case and be happy.

 

I understood that the 1 1/4" case is the one that was brazed. If his 1 1/4" case is cracked, couldn't he use a Dana 20 case? Dana 20s are cheap and plentiful.

 

Yup. You need one with the filler on the side not the back. Also need to make sure it's drilled and tapped for the clutch pivot if needed. If not then some light machining is necessary. According to his thread he said he got it all apart and everything looked ok so that's what I was going by. Maybe I missed something? Wouldn't be the first timeR)

 

timgr is correct. Orginal 1.25 case does have the brazing on it. Nickml your right though I will probably just take the parts off the Brown Lipe and make due. I might search a little more for a good 18 1.25 case. I am sure someone with an older unit would like this BL case, and it came with a T-90a. Herm is getting my rebuild parts together.

 

You can get a machine shop to machine the 1 1/8" case to accept the 1 1/4" shaft. Not really a problem, takes about an hour. Can even make a large hole case if need be. I did that for Jason (neptco19) a year or so ago.

 

Any ideas on how to get the brass bushing out of the output shaft for replacement?

 

Can't remember for sure but I think you can tap the bushing and use a slider hammer to pull it out.

 

Takes a few minutes, but you can also slit it with a loose hacksaw blade. Will pop right out after slitting and you really cant hurt the hardened shaft with the hacksaw blade....still be carefull as you get close.

 

Ok I will try those ideas. Thats the only things I could think of tap it, try and pull it out or try and get behind it and chip it out. I was worried about hurting the shaft but I guess since the new sleeve is going back in it any scratches will get covered up. Cutting sounds like a good way to weaken it and get it out.

 

If the bushing is in a blind hole, an old trick is to fill it almost completely with grease, insert a drift that fits the I.D. of the bushing snugly, and whack it with a hammer---the resulting force will drive the bushing out. May take a couple refills with grease, just keep hitting the drift as the bushing comes out.

Good luck.

 

Hmmm, so does the grease pressure drive it backwards and out onto the drift? I assume by blind hole you mean you cannot get to it from the other end and it is solid.

 

You can do the same thing with thick oil. This is basically hydro-locking. We use this trick at work all the time but most people don't have gage pins to fit specific holes.

 

Ok so now going back in???? Seems to be too big for the hole....its brass so I cannot tap too hard on it. I am going to put it in the freezer for a while see if that old trick gives me enough room.

Any body have any experience with the back in?

Sorry I read that rebuild manual over and over and never saw this little thing being an issue.

 

The problem you are having with the bushing is typical. It is not brass but rather bronze. If you have access to a press that would be best. If not tap it in using a hard piece of wood (oak or something similar)and a hammer.