Rust Killer That Acutally Seems To Work...

I've been beating myself up trying to get rid of rust, and I mean BAD rust on things for quite a while...

I have a Small (Bucket Siphon) type sand blaster,
But the silica sand is expensive and if you store it, it draws moisture making it a PAIN to work with.

There are also issue with lung and eye problems with any shot/sand blasting.

I've tried 'Rust Killers' of all descriptions, but this one seems to work without killing myself!

It's 'Permatex' brand, p/n 81775 (RT-8A)
And I got it at the local Sherwin Willams paint store.
Cost is about $9 a pint, but a pint goes a LONG way!

This is my 'Test Pig', a wheel that matches the heavy duty wheels I have on my Jeep.
I wanted a spare, but I didn't know if this one was salvageable until I tried this stuff!

I used an air powered wire brush to remove the scale and the worst of the standing rust, and the paint that wasn't adhered to anything anymore...
(you could do this by hand, but it would be slow!)





Then a coat of the 'Rust Killer'...
Now, this stuff says to use a small container for what you are going to use, you SHOULD NOT dip the brush into the bottle.

They are CORRECT!
If you dip, you will activate the bottle and ruin it!
(ask me how I know that! )



The foam created when I shook the bottle seemed to be a pain in the butt, but it turned out to be MUCH EASER to get the foam forced into small places/crevices in the wheel than the brush could go!

First coat went on REALLY fast and easy!



And I let it dry about 20-30 minutes...



Then applied a second coat, which took a lot less than the first coat, and went on even easier than the first coat!



Once that coat dried, it was REALLY IMPRESSIVE how the rust had been converted to something I can only describe as a 'Coating'...



I used about 1/4 of a bottle on BOTH sides of this wheel, and the coating is HARD AS A ROCK,

Plus, when I wire brushed off the 'Streaks' of bubbles that got away
(really easy to remove if it wasn't in contact with rust)
I found that the rust in the pours and pits in the metal were no longer showing 'Rust' anymore, it was all converted to the hard, black surface you see in the pictures!

I use SELF ETCHING PRIMER before I paint, and I've not had any issues with rust reappearing under this stuff, and all paint stayed where I put it!

THIS IS NOT 'NAVAL JELLY' or any of the other caustic, stinking crap I've tried.
No bad smell, no eating your skin away, actually very present to work with.

Just thought I'd share....

 

cool! Thanks for the tip.

How well does it take a coat of paint over top? Let us know if you find out.

 

Looks similar to some Rustoleum rust converter that I used recently on the brake backing plates.

 

Same stuff I use, takes black Rustoleum rattle can just fine. Hasn't been long enuff to tell how well it seals over time. I've got it on a w/s frame, brake backing plates and some other small parts.

 

Tried the rattle can version, don't have any use for it, just doesn't work NEARLY as well as the bottle stuff...

Been using it 18 months to 2 years, something like that.
Works great for me so far, no 'Pop Up' rust,
And like I said in the writeup, self etching primer/sealer, and the paint goes slick as can be!

The rim in the pictures is a good year old now, and the paint has held up with no rust though spots, so I'm happy with the $1.50 worth of materials and hour I spend on it!

 

I tired it on my windshield. I wire wheeled it down, did some welding repair, and coated it with this stuff. Next day I sanded/wire wheeled it. Most of the metal came out like new. Very shiney. The rusty places had turned black. The black would not eaisly wire wheel off.

I hit it with and etching primmer tonight. I think I'll have to go over it with a glazing compoung to smooth it out. Or a heavy body sanding primmer.

But of all the things I've tried I like this the best so far. I'm impressed.