Pulled the engine this weekend.

So, I pulled the engine in my Jeep the past weekend, I plan on pulling everything apart and cleaning everything as well as replacing all the seals and gaskettes, and for painting

If I can help it I don't want to take it to a machine shop so I plan on doing everything myself. I am looking for some advice on what I should look for and what special tools I need to accomplish this. I also want to replace the cam bearings and I have no idea on how to do this, though I do have a Chiltons and Haynes book.

BTW it iis a 258.

 

First you want to get a Factory service manual.
The chiltons and Haynes don't seem to have all the right info.
Check www.thejeep.com for the manual.
You could do the cam bearings with the correct driver $$, a machine shop do it for like 25.
andrew

 

Machine work requires some specialty tools. While you can purchase the tools, unless you are going to do this a number of times It really wouldn't be worth it. You can do much of the work such as disassembly, cleaning the parts and reassembly to save some money. You mentioned replacing the cam bearings, there is a specialty tool called a cam bearing knocker. I have seen them listed at Summit Racing for around $75. I don' recall what the machine shop charges but that is a specialty tool with really only 1 purpose. You need a set of precision micrometers to measure the bore to determine if the block has been previously bored or if it is worn and now needs boring. In my case there was no charge for the machinist doing this. Each process in reconditioning the block, heads and crank requires specialty tools ind years of training to use properly.
I think it is great you want to do it yourself but I feel the machine work is best left to a professional machinist. JMO

 

Hmm. What was your oil pressure before you removed the engine? Compression? Why do you think this work is needed? Do you want to just seal leaks or is there something obvious wrong with the engine?

Need a lot more info.

I would not expect a 258 to need new cam bearings unless the OP were really low. If I wanted to "freshen up" one of these engines, I'd replace the rings and rod bearings and have the cylinder head rebuilt (valve grind, knurl valve guides or install valve guide inserts, new parts as needed). 258s are very durable, and I would not expect the engine to need a lot of machining.

 

I have acess to alot of special tools from the base hobby shop, between them and rental tools, and harbour frieght I think I should be okay. If it come to the point where the motor need alot of work I will porbally be finding a used v8 and then having them build that one up, if I am gunna pay for a complete rebuild I might as well do it on something I want alot more than the 258. At this tiem I dont plan on boreing the motor, just replacing rings and re honing the cylinders, and I can get a honig bit for 20 bucks.

 

The reason I am replacing the cam bearing is that I ran it out of oil while driving home one day and instead of stopping and filling it up I drove the last 3 or 4 miles home, and for the Oil Pressure, I have no idea, that gauge has not worked since I bought it. I also never did a compression check before pulling it, i had to put the jeep in storage for a while, so I figgered I would just go ahead and do all this.

Also how much is it usually for a head rebuild?

 

Reputable shops should have a price list. Check out a few shops in your area, and ask your buds for recommendations. The basic valve job will be comparatively inexpensive ($100?), but you'll probably need several extra services.

Look here for a much better description: http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Builde...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1249413920&sr=1-1

 

I think that to do both heads on my 360 was a combined $300 (~$150 each?).

 

An inline 6 will be more than half the cost of a V8. Much of the cost is in the setup, so you get a price that's more for a V8 than a 6 than a 4, but not in proportion to the number of cylinders or the number of heads. A lot depends on the condition of the heads, how many valves you need (if any), and whether you choose valve guide inserts (less cheap) or knurling (more cheap).

Head machining can get expensive if you need crack repair or go-fast stuff like porting and polishing. However, 258 heads are very cheap and common, so if there is a major problem (like a crack), junk the head and find another. Realize that you can buy a complete brand-new 4.0L HO head for $500, so don't put any money into a head with a lot of problems.

The shop will likely recommend clean, magnaflux, knurl, grind and surface at a minimum. Usually the cleaning, dis/reassemble and valve grind will be included in the basic valve job.

Monroe's book (linked above) has a whole chapter about head work.