Warn full floater disc conversion

So,,, I snagged a Dana 44 that came extra with a 3B I bought in Denver. It has the warn full floater conversion done I have one full floater set up on one of my 2A's but it was done a little differently and not sure it was a warn conversion. It has 11" drums. This one is a warn setup but retains the stock 9" drums. I would like to convert it to a disc brake set up before I put it under my M38A1. Any help???

 

I would think that you could use a dana 44 front disc backing plates with around a 78 CJ rotor with waggy or chevy 1/2 ton calipers. Not sure what kind of hubs warns uses on its kit but should be similar to do a disc brake swap on the front axle

 

This is how I set mine up. One thing to note is a manual proportioning valve will be needed to adjust front to rear bias once you have it driving. I can't remeber without looking but I think the caliper bracket bolts on top of the spindle base ie to the outside of the vehicle. I will look tonight and let you know.

 

I used this kit on mine with the full floater. no problems with it.

http://tsmmfg.com/jeep.htm


Mike

 

Heimbig2, did you use their calipers and hoses or did you find your own? Michaelo and Wmi68cj5, what do you think the set up you guys mentioned would cost? I like simplicity of bolting in on but also would like to be cost effective

 

I had access to a chevy front axle so I didn't have any cost on that protion. I had to buy a couple new brake hoses that are a bit too long but they work(chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 hoses), the two 77-78 jeep rotors(i believe the 1-1/8" thick ones) and the proportioning valve(i think you can get one from jegs or summit for less than 50 dollars). I also needed 10 longer lugs. It's been about 9 years since I bought all this stuff so one I don't rmember and two they pricng would be out of date.

This is a complete bolt in operation not cutting/welding/grinding required.

Keep in mind you will need to keep your tcase mounted parking brake since this set-up will not have it at the rear axle.

 

Well I ended up giving him $1100 for the jeep and that included the 44 under the jeep as well as the full floater. It also had a koenig winch. Factory/dealer set up with Warn overdrive and PTO. The worst part of the whole jeep is under the toolbox and the drivers rear of the tub. I honestly will probably sell the jeep and keep the pto, overdrive winch and full floater. I may fix the tub with new sheet metal if I have to to get it resold. So when I looked at what I would pay for those seperate items, and then sell jeep to recoup cost, I figure I got a pretty good deal. I havent seen very many straight six conversions. I thought the conversion for its time was done nicely.

Did you look at it Warloch?

 

Caliper Mounts could be had for 30 dollars for two easy. Any front chevy or Jeep Dana 44 caliper mounts will work.

Looks like 88 dollars for Calipers and Pads from Advance Auto. That is for a 1984 JEEP Waggy. The chevy ones are a little bit more expensive. Don't know why they are basically the same. Either one will work.

Hoses around 40 most likely. I used cheaper ones from speedway on my offroad rig. They are an fitting and are braided or kevlar but they are not DOT approved so don't know about using them on the road. I haven't had any issues running hydroboost.

Studs around 15-30 dollars.

Rotors 60 dollars of a CJ.

Your looking at around 240 for the upgrade however I know you can do it alot cheaper if you do some looking and comparing prices. That was just pulling prices of Advance Auto website.

 

Tell me about it, this makes number 9 again. I thinned down 3 in March to get to 8 and now I seem to just not be able to stop shopping according to my lovely wifeR). I really just couldnt turn it down when I looked at the parts. I tell her it is no different than her shopping in town:twisted:

I didnt know if the buy the whole kit idea is a better way or just peice it out part by part. I like simplicity but I also like to save money.

 

I did the GM disc conversion on my Warn FF. Essentially the same as converting a D27 front axle without the grinding. I think there is a parts list in the Tech Section along with the write up. Or you can find the parts list at JP.com I figure my conversion ran around $300 for everything.

 

I had trouble finding a good set of mounts. I ended up making rear mounts out of 3/8 plate. They bolt to the rear of the axle flange. Another issue I had was getting the right length lugs. The part number listed in the tech article on this sight was not available at the local store, so I ended up machining another number. I used chevy calipers , 1.125 rotors .

 

Another small issue I am worried about is finding a replacement axle if this one would break. Although much stronger, parts availability still concerns me a little.

 

Replacement axles can be custom made. My Warn kit has them. I wouldn't worry about it until one breaks.

 

Herm the overdrive guy has a full floater kit that he makes that is designed after the Warn kit. He will sell you an axle if it is either the 19 or 30 spline style

 

Actually Herm's kit is designed after the old school kits like Smittybilt, R&P, and others made for years. Herm's kit is a good one but is quite a bit different than the Warn kit.

 

Nick, can you explain the difference between the Warn kit and Herm's "old style" kit? I'm about to get ready to think about this conversion ...

 

Herm's kit necks down to 27 spline on the outers for use with over the counter hub locks or drive flanges. The Warn kits use 30 spline outers only except on a very few applications. The Warn axle shaft is basically the same diameter the whole length of the shaft. Herm's kit and some the "old school" kits use a smaller diameter shaft with a raised portion for an axle seal to ride on, one that can be pressed into the housing. IIRC this allows the shafts to be pulled out without removing the spindles. The shafts I have in mine only neck down right before the spindle so are larger throughout their length. I don't run an axle seal in mine, I let the gear oil mix with the grease in the wheel bearing hub to lube the bearings just like a 3/4 ton or 1 ton and above full float axle does. It's messier to deal with when disassembly is necessary but I've had few leak issues and I feel it lets the bearings run a bit cooler.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the way Herm builds his kit. It is a good one. Just a different philosophy than Warn had when building their kit.

Warn also built spindles with a larger bore to accept the larger axle shaft, but they built their spindles from scratch so could build them from different materials. Warn's kit also uses wheel bearing retaining nuts with set screws so they couldn't come loose, similar to some IH and other vehicles. Warn built their spindles where you could install an axle seal in the back of the spindle instead of the axle housing and they used an o-ring on the back of the spindle to help seal the spindle to the housing.