Posi's Do-over

Nice!

 

You can say that again!

 

Here are some pics from today. I had removed every bracket from the old frame, so I had to setup new spring and shackle mounts, new brake lines, new shock mounts, steering box mount and some body mounts. Since it was an M38A1 frame, I had to fab a grille support mount off the front crossmember. I boxed the entire frame and added about 8 inches to the front of the frame. By mounting the rear shackle hangers to the rear bumper I was able to end up with a 95" wheelbase. Going to start prepping the tub and front clip for paint this week.

 

Hmmmmmmm. Don't know why those pics staggered like that.

 

Hey John,
I know this has been a long process. Glad to see you are making some headway. Keep after it, I expect to see you on the trails driving instead of riding shotgun soon!

 

You and me both, Jeff! I swapped places with the body and the frame in the warehouse, since I'm done with the frame, until the body is on it. I'd like to get it at least primed/sealed this week. Got to sling some bondo first though. I'm doing Fordyce with Drew this weekend. Paint next week.

 

I'm hoping to be able to primer the tub Sunday or Monday and shoot paint the following Sunday. In the mean time here's a couple of picks of what I call a false spring. I made a pair of "springs" out of some 2 1/2" flatbar. The square tuibing simulates the thickness of the spring pack and gave me a point for the center-bolt. I welded peices of tubing to simulate the main eye and shackle end. With these in place I was able to fully cycle the axles to setup the shocks and determine the bumpstop dimensions. I also used this to check the anti-wrap bar for binding. It's probably not an exact method, but it works fairly well. I'm using stock height YJ springs from Full Traction. They are almost dead flat with the full weight of the Jeep on them.

 

Hey John your build looks great. Your going to have a brand new jeep when your all done. It looks quite trail capable

 

Interesting that you have a traction bar---or whatever you call it-----along with leaf spring.

AFAIK, these are usually used with coil spring suspension----but then I am used to street applications, not off road. Normal use is for weight transfer/traction, and prevent spring wrap up.

Mind explaining the reasoning ????





Thanks.

 

Thanks, Ryan. It all looks prety good so far, but the trail will have the final say. I'll definitely be ready for an ECJ5 Rubicon run next year.

 

John, thanks for the info.

You are right, flat spring probably much more prone to wrap.

Even worse, mono spring like in Cameros.

Is the pivot of the front of the arm roughly in line with the front of the springs???

If the bar is much different in length, it will bind at large suspension travel.

Appreciate it.

 

In my opinion, you are running by far the best wheelin tire ever produced. I love those Krawlers and hope to be buying me a set once my LTB's wear out. Looks good.

 

Mike S: My bar is slightly longer than the distance to the main eye mount on the springs. It runs to a shackle setup on my skidplate with a heim joint. The heim can rotate freely in the end of the bar. Since the bar is almost dead center on the axle, most of the articulation movement is rotational at the bar end and not much actual up and down. Of course it's all theoretical at this point. I spent a lot of research time on this and looked at quite a few rigs with anti-wrap bars and talked to the drivers. There are a lot of different ways to approach the wrap problem, time will tell if I got it right.

'72 CJ5: I really like the Krawlers. I've had them for about 3 years. Sure wish I had beadlocks though. The Krawlers really shine at about 5 - 7 lbs, but I can't keep them on the rims at less than 8 lbs. I know those LTB's aren't cheap, but hang on to your wallet when you look at the Krawlers. That's the big downside to them. I ran BFG MT's for a long time and they seem to have as good a traction on the rocks as the Krawlers. The sidewalls on them are a little weak though. They scuff pretty easy. The Krawler sidewalls are like the Incredible Hulk.

 

Haha, well actually the LTB's arnt that bad to the wallet. I think the 33x13.50's are like 170 each right now. If I remember right, those 35x13.00 Krawlers are about....350ish?? I drive my jeep often in town and such and the only thing is I dont think those red lables are DOT approved. So I may go with the 35" KM2's which are seeming to be a good replacement for the ol tried and true BFG mt. One thing about the LTB's I have found is that the jeep prefers a 12.50 over a 13.50 (even though it aint that big of difference) and I will be cutting my center lugs on the swampers before she goes out again. Too "loose" a feeling when climbing. How much longer you think till your rig is rippin its way through the trails?

 

In a Spring Over Set Up, (SOA), the leverage of the axle under the spring can account for some significant axle wrap. Axle wrap can be even more prevalent with a low pinion output on the pumpkin (like a Ford
9" axle).

With the longer, flatter, and softer YJ springs, it can be very noticeable, and you'll end up going through stock springs almost annually. The anti-wrap sets ups, be them a third link like Posi's or a Bam Bar set up help control spring wrap. the trick is to not limit axle articulation, but prevent wrap.

 

John,

Your build is lookin good. Thanks for sharing, and I can't wait to see it on next years early CJ5 Rubicon run.

 

'72CJ5: That's about right for the 13.50 x 35 Krawlers. Think I paid $340. But that was 3 or more years ago. I'm hoping to be driving it in a month or so. But I said that last year too! Ha Ha

Long&Low: I looked at the Bam Bar design, but didn't like the idea of welding to the cast centersection. It does take a lot of the stress off the axle tubes though. I welded the bracket for the bar to a piece of 2 1/2" tube that I split lengthwise. That fits nicely over the D44 tube so the welds to the axle will be horizontal rather than vertical.

jeep67: Looking forward to doing another Vintage Iron Rubicon run with ya'll. This makes two Summers with no rig to drive.

 

Getting a little closer. Finished fitting the steel rear corners to the tub. I bought them with no cutouts as I moved the tailights and changed the rear wheel well opening to accomodate the axle being moved back. Hoping to get paint on it next week if our temps come back up.










By the way. Anyone doing a body off resto in N. Cal., this rotisserie will be available for the cost of the steel in a couple of weeks.

 

P.M. commin at ya.