broken dipstick amc 304.... How successful is slide pulling these?

I have noticed through searches this, well, happens.
PO cracked dipstick tube with botchy header install.
Gave out flush with block pretty much instantly while trying to accommodate header removal.

I see people have used 7mm taps and slide hammers to remove the chunk left...

I am considering that, but wonder...Installing a new one, don't I have to remove pan anyway and put a bend into the new replacement tube?

(ordered from Bulltear already after reading about diameter differences and associated PITA's with some replacements.

 

I have not done it, but AFAIK the tube slides in from above - no bending. If you needed to remove the pan, there'd be no point to the slide hammer and/or tap methods. With the pan off, you may as well drive out the stub from underneath.

 

i have no immediate need to pull the pan other than the dipstick situation.
I found a seller on ebay offering a threaded slide hammer that interfaces with a vice grip 7/16-14 thread.
I plan on trying that attached to a well set m7 tap with grease in the tube bore.
If that doesn't work I will have to pull the pan and enjoy the slide hammer toy on some other project like house door hinges or something else that's stuck.

thanks for the info, my concern was the new dipstick, although even with the old tube out by my hopeful method, I am certain installing it isn't going to be fun.

 

My 72 dipstick tube was a lot longer than the replacement. The first replacement I damaged trying to install. The flare that holds it in the block was a little too steep. The second replacement, I ground the edge of the flare just a little bit to give it some taper and it went in great and holds tight.

 

I'm made to understand the Bulltear ones are remachined replacements to fit correctly. I have heard negatives such as your statements on many other offered ones, such as being .340 diameter when .328 is required, and too long, etc.

 

I had to remove my oil pan and push/drive the stubb of my tube from underneath. Tried pullling it from the top but could not move. Ordered a replacement from jcwhitney and the fit was to tight so I had to grind it some and then tap it in. Seems to work fine now. No leaks.

 

I also had problems with the omix stick and tube. I went and installed the Bulltear set, and no problems. My engine also didn't have the tube bracket that bolts to the valve cover bolts. Overall, the Bulltear unit fit like a glove, and the bracket holds it snug, so less reason for it to get snapped off again.

I had enough of the old tube sticking out of the block, so it came right out with a pair of vise grips.

Good luck!!

 

An update, I finally got this out tonight after a bit of a working sabbatical on the Jeep. Or at least in the meantime I installed the fuel tank, tie rod, turned drums, brake lines etc while I mused over what my engine plans were going to be. Keep tearing down or head for road?

At first I tried a m7-1 tap, seemed too big.

a 1/4-20 seemed a bit small, but bit in.........

I tried that, grease coated with some grease also pushed into the tube first...

I was using a special slide hammer I found with 7/16 thread coming out of it to attach directly to vice grips....The vice grips were old and kept jumping off the tap. However this little slide hammer may have future uses.......... cotter pins comes to mind....

I found a 1/4-20 sort of sligthly tapered greenish bolt. Seemed to have some industrial electrical ground purpose. It was about 1.5 inches long. I'm thinking that the heck.
So I thread this in, leaving very little thread exposed for a space.

Under the Jeep I go with a beat up screwdriver and a strong hammer.

I managed to drive the tube upward and finally out!

I then flushed the hole with oil, and poured the balance of the 30weight I had laying around and let it go through the pan.

In hindsight, I would suggest these methods are only ideal for a few situations.
1) new engine you just dont want to drop pan on
2) semi-expedient repair
3) you just did pan gasket, RMS, etc and this happened on some header install
4) you have no issues with the pan, RMS, etc and diving further would lead you to further restoration work which then you're pulling a motor anyway. I felt I fell into #4, since I don't want to remove-rebuild until next year or so unless fate requires me.


I'll install the bulltear unit when I have a strong handle on what manifolds/exhaust I will have in place, since I am still searching after cutting off those in frame ones that impinged on my clutch throwout arm.

Just figured I'd update since I saw this topic on many sites... The slide hammer idea can work if you have a tenacious enough hammer to fastener connector, and tapping, then pounding a threaded in bolt from under can also.

Hopefully I can get her road ready in 30 more days.

 

glad to hear it worked out for you. I just recently replaced the dipstick in my FIL's TJ. the dipstick handle (plastic=stupid) broke off in the tube. Had to remove the tube to get the stick out.. Here's a tip for next time, before you try to remove the remainder of tube give it a shot of penetration oil and let it sit for a few hours to loosten up the rust and whatnot that's holding it in.