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clutch throwout arm resting against collector flange

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by incynr8, Feb 21, 2009.

  1. Feb 21, 2009
    incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2008
    Messages:
    160
    I have no idea what brand/model headers are in this jeep. They are in frame.

    The driver's side collector flange and pipe meeting allow the clutch throwout lever to be resting against them I am getting a series of play before engagement allows the arm itself to move at all. Probably not good, definitely not ideal.


    At this point I'm wondering what to do.

    I guess my first question revolves around what is the usual collector diameter for a 304 header used in a Jeep. Perhaps mine are way too big. Seems too big to me actually.

    Also if this common among some cheapie hated header.
     
  2. Feb 21, 2009
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,526
    without a picture, can you heat the tubes and move them down or away slightly without effecting the exhaust too much ?
     
  3. Feb 21, 2009
    incynr8

    incynr8 Member

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    Dec 17, 2008
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    possibly down. Anymore toward the frame rail won't be fun.

    They leak anyway and I wonder if I should tear them out and go shortys or stock, since they need to be removed to make that heat/bend move anyway.
     
  4. Feb 21, 2009
    incynr8

    incynr8 Member

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    Dec 17, 2008
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    Well I removed the driver side header. It was interfering with the clutch arm.
    They were junk headers, leaks at collector and at almost every port.

    Guess it's decision time on exhaust.

    Ideally I'd like to go back to manifolds or shorty headers with either dual downpipes to the exhaust I have or a Y pipe to single (anyone know if the 'stock' replacement Y pipe and rest of stock exhaust is available for 72-75 304/t15/d20?

    And more bad news, the dipstick tube was cracked near base and didn't survive my removal attempt, so now I get to make a tool, seems like m7 might tap into it, or drop pan and get it out from inside.

    Project is going to be taking a bit longer than expected... :)
     
  5. Feb 21, 2009
    Bob75CJ

    Bob75CJ Member

    Southgate, Mi
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2007
    Messages:
    206
    Wifes waggy dipstick tube is loose and she needs a new one. Not bad on the cj but a real pain in the Wagoneer.
    The stock manifolds worked geat with my built 304, didn't slow it down any. Seemed to flow good enough. did weld the airpump ports shut with some knickel rod after heating the manifolds up.
     
  6. Feb 22, 2009
    incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2008
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    160
    If I had stock I'd go back, no manifolds. Anyone know someone selling a Y pipe/headpipe for 72-75 w 304? I see 76 up advertised, andd actually wonder if that pipe fits?

    Looking to see if a prebent solution exists for me, or if she gets towed with fresh shortys/manifolds to a shop for bending.
     
  7. Feb 23, 2009
    wicked4x4

    wicked4x4 HEY, watch the paint!

    Escondido, CA
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2006
    Messages:
    194
    i just put inframe headers on mine. having that same issue. clutch arm touches collector flange.
    my headers (yes inexpensive ones) are flowtech in frame/full length.

    i like that they are out of the fenderwells and clear of rocks, but bumming on the slight rubbing of clutch arm.

    i am curious if the hydrolic clutch linkage is a fix for this? anyone know?
     
  8. Feb 23, 2009
    incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2008
    Messages:
    160
    I would suggest if the arm itself is not changed, the method of moving it will not affect the interference.
    To me it affected top of travel feel and was taking up slack. Probably short term tolerable, but keep in mind mr PO torqued nothing correctly on this machine, so therefore I had extensive leaks anyway.
     
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