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F-134 oil prime?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by DKillam, Jan 9, 2009.

  1. Jan 9, 2009
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    Just finished replacing rear main seal (engine in jeep) and was able to change upper seal without loosening other main caps or turning the crank. I used fresh engine oil on the bearing and seal when I reassembled and sealant as specified with the Fel-pro seal set. BTW - main bearing and journal was smooth and shiny, nothing to indicate wear! :)

    I did a search about how to prime the oil passages before startup, but all I can find relates to the V-6.

    Since the oil pump is driven from the cam shaft, is there a way to do this or do I just cross my fingers and hope for the best? :rofl:

    If nothing else, I'll crank the engine with the coil wire off.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2009
  2. Jan 9, 2009
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Yea Jp had a thing about it this month and I was gonna say something.
    No you cant prime it with a drill. but you can disconnect the coil wire and crank it through a few times. Assembly lube would have been a better choice.
     
  3. Jan 9, 2009
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    What I thought - oh well :rofl:

    Considered using assembly lube but Fel-pro instructions recommended only oil.

    Thanks Billy.
     
  4. Jan 9, 2009
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    What didya think????????

    STP also works well
     
  5. Jan 9, 2009
    gasman

    gasman Member

    mariposa calif...
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    pack the pump with vaseline then crank it tell you get pressure it well be very quick. Thats whats recomened for external pumps.
     
  6. Jan 9, 2009
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    IMO there's no need to worry. You did not open the oiling system, so everything is primed - full and ready. It'll be a normal startup.
     
  7. Jan 9, 2009
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Except the new bearing.............
     
  8. Jan 9, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    You did good. As Tim sez, since you only changed the seal, meaning no new bearings or dropping main or rod caps, you should still be primed with oil. Normal start-up is all you need. Good show.
     
  9. Jan 9, 2009
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    Thanks for the support! After replacing the side and top valve cover gaskets this morning, I filled the crankcase with oil, cranked on the engine (without coil wire) a couple of minutes, then fired 'er up - sounds like a Hurricane! :twisted: Time will tell if the rear seal works - I feel good about it though. Tomorrow I'll order gaskets and seals for the transmission and transfer case and anything else I find leaking R)
    One leak at a time! monkeys
     
  10. Jan 10, 2009
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
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    Too late now but the way I did it was to take a cheapo FLAPS oil hand pump and put a fitting on the end that would screw into the oil sender hole and hand pump oil into the system.
     
  11. Jan 27, 2009
    jeeper50

    jeeper50 jeeps 'till I die

    Spanish Fort. AL
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  12. Jan 28, 2009
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    Oct 31, 2005
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    I read the thread yesterday and from what I could tell the seal I took out looks like the seal that failed on Howards rebuild. The new seal I installed was labeled on the box as BS3165. I also noticed in the thread that the number shown on the failed seal was S3165 - don't know what the difference is, if any :?
     
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