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F-head consuming a LOT of oil, help!

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Eaallred, Dec 7, 2008.

  1. Dec 7, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2008
    Messages:
    188
    Hi all,

    I picked up a 62 CJ5 a couple months ago and have been working on the weekends to get it up and going. Hopefully to be able to do some mild Moab stuff as well as do some more fun camping stuff with it. Made a complete new wire harness, new mastercylinder, wheel cylinders, shoes, etc.

    But it's consuming a LOT of oil. Like 3-4 quarts in just an hour or two of driving.
    If I let it idle or downshift downhill for a bit (high manifold vacuum situation), THEN hit the gas to take off a huge cloud will come from the exhaust. At no other time is anything noticeable from the tailpipe.

    So first instinct was to replace the intake valve guide seals. Put in new o-rings, old ones looked fine, but changed them anyway. Made no difference.

    When I had an airline hooked up to the cylinders to keep the valves up while I replaced the seals, I could hear a little bit of bubbling in the radiator. Okay, bad head gasket. I replaced the head gasket because it was obviously bad, and hoped that maybe oil from the push rod tubes was also leaking to the combustion chamber.

    With the head gasket changed, the smoke has been reduced and the engine runs much better (less cutting out, etc), and the plugs are not fouling out anymore. Before the plugs would be 'wet' with oil when I removed them. At this point, the plugs are dry, but running rich. So, progress.

    So then I thought maybe oil was pulling through the breather, and into the intake (the rubber boot connecting the oil bath to the carb was oily inside). So I removed the hose, leaving the breather connected to the oil bath. I need to clean the oil bath, because I had to reset my idle mixture with it removed. Plugs are now showing a good burn as well, so the oil bath is restricting quite a bit right now. I'll take some time to clean that out for sure. But, it is still burning a LOT of oil. If I sit there and rev it over and over again, I can get a huge cloud of burning oil out the tailpipe.

    But it is still burning as much oil as ever, needing me to top off the oil as often as always. I've made progression the amount of smoke, and how well it runs (It is actually running pretty good now.).

    Any ideas what I may be missing? Compression is 115, 125, 120, 120 when warm. Looking in the spark plug holes with the engine off, the chamber looks 'dry' like the plugs are now. My neighbor is going to bring his small probe camera home from work so we can really get a look at the inside of the chamber for clues.

    New intake valve guide seals, head gasket, and removed the crankcase ventilation from the equation. I'm hoping someone familiar with these F-heads will know what I'm overlooking. I don't want to have to take 3-4 gallons of oil with me anytime I want to go do a weekend trip in it.

    It does seem to burn more fuel if I drive around at about 3000-3100rpm (close to 50mph). Low RPM crawling around seems to buy me more time on oil consumption.

    Any help appreciated. I'm running out of ideas!
     
  2. Dec 7, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2008
    Messages:
    188
    Oh yea, here she is:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Soon as I get this oil thing figured out, I'll be onto 'outfitting' it better for the trail. Engine and drive train will stay stock (I'm diggin it), but will make new bumpers, ad a winch, highlift jack, a set of MT's, etc. One thing at a time though, got to get this engine to ease up on the oil consumption first. :?
     
  3. Dec 7, 2008
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Aug 3, 2003
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    The vacuum pump (combination fuel pump) diaphragm may have failed in a way that sucks crankcase oil to the intake manifold.

    Busted rings have been common in my F-heads, but your compression readings seem passable.

    Good luck!

    Pete
     
  4. Dec 7, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2008
    Messages:
    188

    I just replaced the fuel pump with the non-vacuum port type. The old pump had nothing attatched to the vacuum lines. Is there something there I should be checking for that a previous owner may have done?

    I noticed the hardline coming off the manifold under the carb, but didn't follow where it went to. Maybe I should go out there real quick and check out where it is going?
     
  5. Dec 7, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Did you check the compression both wet and dry?

    Check it with the cylinders "dry" and write down the readings for each hole. Then go back and put a couples squirts of motor oil into one cylinder at a time and re-check the compression readings. They should come up a bit with the oil, but if they don't come up then you may have a broken ring or two. If the readings do come up then its liely that your valve guides are worn out.
     
  6. Dec 7, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2008
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    188
    I put some oil in the first cylinder that showed 115 and it bumped up to just over 120.

    One thing I just went out and looked at. There is a hardline off the intake manifold. Mine goes down around the front of the motor, and connects to the lower valve cover. It all 'looks' factory, but makes sense that it would just be pulling oil from the side of the motor and sucking to the intake manifold. Is this how it's supposed to be, or has somebody done something wrong to this motor at one point?

    If it is connected wrong, what is supposed to be connected to what? If it is correct, what the heck is the purpose behind it?
     
  7. Dec 7, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    4,275
    That is the crankcase breather, and it's supposed to be there.

    I would re-check all the cylinders, both dry and then wet. A 5 PSI increase is pretty low IMHO.
     
  8. Dec 7, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2008
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    188
    Interesting. I would have thought the 1/2" breather line off the oil filler tube would be adequate? No? I might try disconnecting it and sealing both off and take it for a test drive tomorrow to see if anything changes. Otherwise the curiosity will kill me.

    I'll re-do the compression check tomorrow after work. Dry and wet after I get it fully warmed up again and post the results.
     
  9. Dec 7, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    If you don't already have one, a factory service manual will be invaluable, it will show the correct routing of the PCV system.

    You can get a re-print from any of the Jeep parts places. ;)

    BTW- DON'T plug the breather system, you are likely to blow out a seal somewhere from the built-up pressure, especially if the rings are leaky.
     
  10. Dec 7, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
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    I've hinted at it to the wife for Christmas. Keeping fingers crossed. lol
     
  11. Dec 8, 2008
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Probably the oil control rings are shot.
     
  12. Dec 8, 2008
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    That hard line should go to your PCV valve which is hardware mounted to the side cover above the fuel pump.:hurrican:
     
  13. Dec 8, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    x2.

    I have seen where they were installed wrong and caused "pumping"
     
  14. Dec 8, 2008
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
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  15. Dec 8, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
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    Oct 9, 2008
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    Well, made real progress tonight.

    Something must be wrong with the PCV system, because by closing that system, the jeep is no longer burning oil. Wondering if there is a deflector or something behind that lower valve cover that is missing or something that allowed all that oil to be sucked up into the intake past the PCV. Very odd, but that was the source of the oil I have been burning.

    I cleaned out the oil bath filter, re-installed it, unhooked the PCV hard line to the intake and plugged both ends. Fired it up, re set the idle speed and mixture and went for a drive. Night and day difference now. Any smoke at all is very faint, possibly just residual in the exhaust maybe.

    Went for a drive around, got it fully warmed up for a while. Got back to the garage and pulled the plugs. They look fantastic. a nice light brown/tan on the porcelain, excellent burn going on. Would have done a compression check, but dinner was ready and I wasn't about to break my golden rule, "Happy Wife, Happy Life". lol

    Really happy with it for now. I'll do some more driving on it next weekend and make the sure oil consumption is really under control. No more smoke, and the plugs look fantastic, I'm feeling pretty optimistic about it at this point.

    Now to fix that exhaust leak under the drivers seat. That's getting loud and annoying, lol.

    Thanks for the help everyone!
     
  16. Dec 8, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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  17. Dec 9, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Run the eng with the dipstick removed and watch for blowby.
     
  18. Dec 9, 2008
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
    Joined:
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    Pretty normal there.

    I think what I'll do is install a PCV valve into the upper valve cover with a splash guard to keep oil spray from directly going into it. That way I can still get some cross-flow through the motor to help remove any moisture and contaminants better.
     
  19. Dec 9, 2008
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    i think that the orignal pcv valve is stuck in the fully open postision, just my $.02, and by the way thinking that willys was the first to have a pcv system;)
     
  20. Dec 9, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
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    Makes sence, first to be production designed to go under water (?)
     
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