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Crankshaft pulley size - options?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by DKillam, Nov 26, 2008.

  1. Nov 26, 2008
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    Oct 31, 2005
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    I've been having alternator charging issues since I switched over from generator a couple of years ago. I installed a 105amp 12SI Delco (aftermarket 3 wire) and wired through "AMP" light to excite. New battery, wiring/electrical connections good, belt tight. After starting engine, I rev it to start charging (best guess 1000~1200 rpm), light goes out, alternator charges, lights bright until engine speed drops back down to idle(600~650 rpm). "ALT" light comes back on, lights dim, etc.
    I read on another site (http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/power_pulleys.html) about pulley ratio and alternator rotor speed and have come up with this:
    Using 5.125” (crankshaft pulley diameter) / 2.5” (alternator pulley diameter) = 2.05/1 (ratio). By multiplying pulley ratio (2.05) X engine speed at idle (600rpm) = alternator rotor speed (1230). Is this fast enough to operate this alternator and charge the battery at idle? It was suggested that the ratio for street driving be closer to 3/1 or even 3.5/1. This would mean either a 1.71” diameter alternator pulley or a 7.5” diameter crankshaft pulley, minimum. The smallest alternator pulley I've found for a wide belt is 2.5" diameter.
    Does anyone know of a larger diameter crankshaft pulley for a stock F head 134? :?

    monkeysmonkeysmonkeys
     
  2. Nov 26, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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  3. Nov 26, 2008
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    Thanks for the info. I checked out the site and it looks like that'll work. I'm going to call to find out the diameter before I order. :)
     
  4. Nov 26, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    That wide belt was used on a lot of old iron, you might have some success in finding a larger crank pulley by checking a tractor parts house.
     
  5. Nov 26, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Just thinking out loud here, but have you tried taking the alt light out of the circuit and running a 12v (+) wire directly to the exciter wire on the alternator? There should be two wires on the side plug, one is the exciter and the other is for the charging light. The extra resistance that the light bulb introduces to the circuit could be the low-RPM culprit. If this works, run a wire from the (+) terminal of the ignition switch to the exciter and problem solved. (The exciter terminal is marked #2 on the alternator case and the dash light terminal is marked #1.)

    The only alternator that I'm familiar with that has low-RPM charging issues are the one-wire models. Some of them are designed not to charge until a certain RPM is reached...
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2008
  6. Nov 26, 2008
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    I haven't tried taking out the light, but you're the second person to suggest it. In the EZ 21 circuit harness there is a white wire labeled "ALT EXCITOR" that starts (or ends) at the alternator post #1 and connects through the fuse block to the ignition switch "ACC" post which is hot when the switch is either "on" or "acc". I didn't use this wire, because I wanted the "AMP" light to function, but I may have to change plans depending on the outcome of testing the alternator as you suggest. I'm willing to try anything and I did order the smaller diameter pulley from the vendor you suggested. I'm still leaning toward the alternator rotor speed as the culprit but I'll let you know how things turn out.

    :? You wrote:
    "(The exciter terminal is marked #2 on the alternator case and the dash light terminal is marked #1.)"

    I may be mistaken but on a three-wire alternator I think post#2 is the voltage sensing post that normally connects to the output post on the alternator.
    Isn't the excitor terminal and dash light terminal one-in-the-same?

    Thanks,
     
  7. Nov 26, 2008
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Go for a larger size pully on the alternator, if increasing it's speed is what you are after. Much easier to replace.
     
  8. Nov 26, 2008
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Also, are you sure the alternator you purchased is not a self-exciter model?
     
  9. Nov 26, 2008
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    You sure about that? I'm thinking the other way around.
    Yep! Delco 12SI
     
  10. Nov 26, 2008
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Larger pulley on the alternator will have the same effect as a larger pulley on the crankshaft. I think. gotta go out and play with drive gears on the motorcycle and see if my perception of that is right. Some one correct me, please.

    And from some of my reading on the 10SI and 12SI they could be either self-exciting or not. But, there again I am not 100% on that. Need to go do some research on both of these items.
     
  11. Nov 26, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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  12. Nov 27, 2008
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    Thanks for the link Steve. The schematic/diagram on the left is how I have mine wired. Just waiting on the pulley now. :rofl:

    monkeys
     
  13. Jun 9, 2009
    cj5 Andy

    cj5 Andy New Member

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    Little late to post on this issue here but to increase the rpms of your alt you wanna either increase the size of your crank pulley or decrease the size of your alt pulley. Since the the crank pulley is so small on most jeeps it would probably be easier to find that. As a added bonus of increasing your crank pulley if you have the original fan and not an electric conversion you will be also adding more rpms to your fan as well. Don't go too big on the pulley though as it may seem insignificant it will rob some hp at low rpms.
     
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