Dana 44 question

When breaking the axle on a tapered 44 has the key been sheering or the axle snaping? Just wondering which is more common?

 

They break?

I know a Dana 20 will sheer the key. Haven't heard any problems from the 44.

 

I believe you mean Model 20. The Dana 20 is a transfer case

You know in all my years on this board I can't think of a rear axle that broke, I can think of many people complaining about how hard it is to get the hub off but never a break. Well maybe carrier or two but thats it.

 

I've broken a tapered 44 both ways. I broke the drivers side axle at the inner splines in a Utility Wagon. It was totaly my fault. I was goosing it in the snow in a parking lot and caught some un-expected traction. I also sheared a key on the same rig. The nut may have been loose, I don't know. It cracked the slot in the hub also.

 

I've twisted the splines of a couple short side 19 spline shafts but never broke one. That was being extremely hard on them also. Anything is possible to break of course, but my experience is that more damage is caused by improper installation of the hub and key onto the shaft or by letting the retaining nut get loose than abuse. Tapered 19 spline axles are generally good through 33" tires with little issue if you keep the nut torqued. 35" tires might be taxing them quite a bit. YMMV

 

Thanks every one. I was wondering because i figured if the key broke and you are locked you would still be able to get home. The set up on this would be rather hard to change on the trail if the axle broke. Im eventually going to swap out to waggy 44. but untill then just wondered what was the most common break.

 

that's why you carry an extra axle with the bearing already pressed and greased on the shaft; and an extra hub, nut and axle key

 

The thought i have on this is to modify the brake backing plate so the bearing retainer would be moved to the outside of the backing plate. This way the brake line and backing plate would not have to be removed to change the axle and i could carry the axles with the hub, bearings and retainer already on the axle.
I did this on my samurai because the backing plate was the retainer and an axle with the plate already on it was a little bulky to cary.
I used a 12 ton press to remove the hubs on my axles and it almost wasnt enuff to get them off. Not sure if it was because of 46 years of being on there or it is always this hard. It seems i could remove a couple shims to make up for the thickness of the backing plate or make a washer to compensate for the thickness of the backing plate. The only thing i havent checked is if the retainer will interfear with the brake springs or shoes. Any thoughts on this?

 

I should have clarified that thought.
I'm always thinking of "combat tactics".
Out on a secluded trail, I wouldn't care about brakes on that wheel; I'd cut/pinch the line to get back to camp/home.
Time of day, effort required, tools available, spare parts availability, will always dictate the outcome.
You can always correct the trail repair later once you are at home/back at camp, whatever your liking.
Sometimes you have to do what you have to do.

 

I agree with you compleetly. as far as the backing plate goes just enlarging the hole a little and moving the retainer to the other side would eliminate that step. I am ordering a locker and the axle bearings friday so ill look at this a little more this weekend and if it works ill let you know.