Starter Repair

This is just an exercise in being the cheapest SOB on the mountain:
I bought a spare F134 and want to check the compression.
The old starter will turn the motor with plugs removed but draws 400+ amps (pegs inductive ammeter).
It will not turn the motor with the comp gauge attached.
Upon pulling the rear end of starter:
The bushing ID is 0.010"+ bigger than the shaft.
The brushes are worn pretty good but usable.
I took a dental pick and scratched the mica between 2 commutator ribs and cleared the copper smearing, from adjacent ribs, successfully.
The 3rd rib gap, I was unable to clear at all.

So, I'll yank the armature and machine out the rib gaps.

Is the bushing wear enough to short the armature, or OK to function?

Anything else I should be thinking about?

 

I had my starter gone through recently, When I took it off there was some movement of the shaft in the bushing. Not much but you could see it ( did not measure it ) The electrical shop that went through it said that the front bushing was the culprit.......thats all they replaced, brushes and armature were servicable. Just the bushing made a world of difference.
Good luck.

 

Thanks! Forgot about the front one

 

Just to offer an end to the thread:
I "fixed" the commutator last night and just stuffed the armature back in it's case this afternoon. I figured if the bushings were bad, I would tend to them later. The starter just about turned the F134 over with ONE spark plug installed (sitting on a pallet). Got the compression test done

 

TRy the toyota LC starter installation, $59 for a new starter, search for toyota starter thread.

 

I already fixed it with precision use of a file and it is back in service - for free

 

We used to call that Mickey Mousing.

However in your defense, (and being low on money myself) I applaud your mechanical skills!
:hurrican:

 

Actually, I believe most of what I did is an accepted practice of restoring a commutator. I just took a small trangular file and cut a shallow groove in the mica between each "rib" (can't remember the real name). Over time, wear causes the rib and brush material to smear together thus bridging adjoining ribs.
However, it was Micky Mouse of me to use a flat file to dress the commutator surface

 

"Grins!"