Whos running an Offy 5999 Intake and Header

Anyone running an Offenhauser 5999 4 barrel intake and header on their inline six? If so what are you using to clamp it to the head? The intake flanges are about an inch and a half out and the header flange is about 3/8" thick. Are there special clamps I need for the bolts?

 

I understand your problem, but I don't have an easy solution for you.

The Offy manifold flange is thicker than the header flange. Normally the intake and exhaust manifolds are bridged by the cup washers that go over the manifold studs and bolts. With the difference in thickness, the washers won't work.

I don't think the Offy manifold flange is any thicker than the stock manifold flange ... it's meant to work with the cast iron exhaust mainfold IIRC. Somebody must have a way to do this - who made your header? if you can't find anything online, I'd suggest you call/email Borla and/or Clifford Research and ask for advice.

 

Take a piece of thick wall tube and notch it to deal with the step? You could weld on halves of thick washers to spread the clamping force.

 

I'll try to get some pictures of this later.I think NorCoJeepers idea is what I will be doing. It's a 4.0 head and factory 4.0 header and the Offy #5999 intake and a 400 cfm Carter AFB. I know Clifford makes an intake for this but I'm trying to use parts I have. This intake has been sitting here for a few years and I'd like to either use it or sell it to help defray the cost of the Clifford intake.

 

Do you already have the AFB? One other option would be to sell the manifold (and AFB?) and use a factory aluminum 2V manifold (cheap!) with a 38 DGES Weber.

 

I bought the intake and carb as a unit. Its a 400 cfm Carter AFB. I bought a rebuild kit for it along with the "Off-Road" kit which has spring loaded needles that are supposed to help keep it from flooding.I do have a factory aluminum,water heated 2 bbl intake and I had thought about either a MC2100 or a Holley 350CFM 2 bbl(I have one of these Holleys).

 

You can cut and weld nuts to bridge the space. Cut the nut in half and grind to the app. thickness you need.Sometimes you will need to smooth the outside a bit to get it in. You can weld it to the header flange or to the bridging clamps/washers. Many rimes the area is recessed and the spacer can be set in and torqued down without fear of it vibrating out.

 

Here's a picture of the spacers that came with my Headman headers. Essentially a peice of 3/8 id thin wall tube with a peice of 1/4 x 3/8 bar stock welded to it. I had to add some weld to them, they were just barely tacked together, and shorten them a little with a grinder to get the gripping washers close to parallel to the head.