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'73 CJ5 - The 2 week build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by kbazurpe, Aug 21, 2008.

  1. Aug 21, 2008
    kbazurpe

    kbazurpe New Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2007
    Messages:
    30
    I originally posted up a build thread called: 'Building it from boxes' (http://earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50795&highlight=kbazurpe) but plans changed somewhat so I though I would start a new thread.

    This project started in December when I traded my YJ for a '73 CJ5 that was completely taken apart.

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    In March I purchased this '78 CJ5 for parts - good drivetrain w/ plow and ACME hardtop/doors, but a horrible body and frame

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    The build essentially started Aug. 2nd and I left home to move back to school on Aug. 20th - hence 'the 2 week build'.

    Day 1 – took apart the ‘78

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    Day 2 – ’78 tub removed and cleaning parts

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    Day 3 and 4 – more dismantling, cleaning, sanding, and painting

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    My artwork

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    Day 5, 6 and 7 – front axle disk brake conversion, could have been much quicker but parts were siezed together

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    Day 8 - Brake and fuel line

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    Day 9 – Fiberglass tub on, checking fitment, drilling holes for frame mount locations

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    Day 10 – more body mounting, brake setup, and initial clutch setup

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    Day 11 -more misc. assembling

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    Day 12 and 13 – mostly sanding and painting misc. parts

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    Day 14 – went to visit grandparents

    Day 15 – got back from grandparents, set in exhaust, mounted battery tray

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    Day 16 – exhaust complete, electrical completely hooked up (minus lights), and first drive – only 100 or so feet

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    Day 17 – cleanup, moved extra parts to an old barn for semi-long term storage

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    Day 18 – left to come back to school

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    Things to still be finished before being road worthy:

    Front pads, calipers, and rotors
    Bleed brake system
    Completely mount body
    Mount seats and seat belts
    Fix gauges that do not work
    Mount roll cage
    Finish electrical wiring for lights
    Longer rear driveshaft


    Longer term:

    Build full cage
    Full paint job
    Decide if I want to use 176/D300 combo I have
    High back seats
    Replace windshield with '76+ (so hardtop fits)
     
  2. Aug 21, 2008
    Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Delaware
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2008
    Messages:
    51
    Wow, you sure work quick!
     
  3. Aug 21, 2008
    canuckCJ

    canuckCJ Member

    Channahon, IL
    Joined:
    May 6, 2006
    Messages:
    98
    Sweet! I wish I had that kind of energy.
     
  4. Aug 22, 2008
    kbazurpe

    kbazurpe New Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2007
    Messages:
    30
    I am only home maybe two weeks a year so if I didn't work quick it would never get done. It could be brought to Purdue, but I don't have a good place to work on it or much extra time while at school.

    Any opinions on using the 176/D300 combo over the stock tranny (3sp) and D20? The 4sp might be nice, but I don't know if it is worth the extra work/expense.
     
  5. Aug 22, 2008
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Messages:
    5,925
    WoW!!! In your past life were you an auto ingineer, mech, designer (auto) ??? Good going.
     
  6. Sep 22, 2008
    Kman

    Kman Member

    Middletown...
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2005
    Messages:
    410
    The T176/Dana 300 combo(which I have in my '83) will give you a lower 1st gear(IIRC 3.52 VS 2.99) and the Dana 300 has a lower geared low range also. If you do go with the T176 set up order a couple of these shift lever repair kits http://www.quadratec.com/products/52112_50.htm (I'm not sure if supposed to put a link in like that or not). The stamped metal retainer(on the right in the picture) has 2 little "dogs" that engage on pins in the top cover. If you go slamming gears these will bend and brake and you won't be able to shift. The Dana 300 will also use a different skid plate as it is kicked down.
     
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