How to remove dust cap from Dana 44??

So I have been going through the steps (slowly) on replacing the pinion oil seal on the Dana 44 from my '74 CJ5. I have the diff drained, new gasket and the yoke finally off (thank god for harmonic balancer pullers??). Anyway, I can see the seal that needs replacing but I can't for the life of me get the dust cap to separate from the diff housing. Is there a secret to this? I tried running a chisel and hammer around the outside of the cap to separate it from the housing, but nothing much happened.

So, if anyone has some suggestions, I would really appreciate it so I can drive the thing again.

Thanks,
Scott

 

What dust cap? The seal is integrated in a sheet metal flange that is a press fit in the axle housing. To remove the old seal. just stick a heavy screw driver in the seal and pry it out.

 

Hmmm. I am beginning to thing what was sent to me is not the right part then. What I have is too big to fit in the little hole around the pinion without removing what I thought was a dust cap. I ordered the seal from 4wd.com and to tell you the truth was a bit concerned when it showed up. The label says it is for a D25/27/30, but I called specifically because online it was confusing what fit a 44 and what did not. The new seal is way too big to fit throught he openeing around the pinion. Anyone have a picture with the yoke off I could compare to?

Scott

 

On Jeep CJ's the 25, 27, 30, and 44 all use the same pinion seal. Got a pic of what you're working on? The od of the pinion seal is about 4" in diameter and just presses into the housing.

 

yeah, i think the "dust cap" is just the outer steel flange of the seal.. the seal you are replacing is more than just the rubber part that rides on the pinion yoke. the OD of you seal should be about as big as the pinion housing itself.. turn your seal upside-down and place it on the old seal thats still in the housing..

describe in detail exactly what the seal in your hand looks like....

 

I will try to get a picture tomorrow, but when looking at the diff housing with the yoke off I see what appears to be a flat piece of metal around the pinion. Behing that appears to be the seal. Again, I will try for pictures.

Scott

 

I haven't seen anything but the standard pinion seal on the half dozen 44's I've done. There is a flat oil slinger that sits behind the seal, but you shouldn't notice it unitl the seal itself is out. Like the others, I just stick a big prybar or screwdriver through the center of the seal and pop it out.

 

So you guys are telling me that the outer most part of my D44 is actually the seal?? The torn rubber part was in the hole surrounding the pinion and sealing against the outer most part you can see. The last picture is the replacement seal I ordered. I can't see how to get that part removed though.

Thanks,
Scott

 

the "flat" area on the end of the housing that surrounds the pinion is completely removable.. though it looks like yours will be a real witch to deal with.. the rubber seal that rides on the shaft is attatched to it.. most newer seals have been updated with a design that actually has a lip that covers the outer edge of the housing, so a screwdriver or chisel from the side will seperate it.. yours has a raised lip maybe 1/8" that holds pressure and seats the seal assembly INSIDE the housing end.. that seal will likely not come out without totally destroying in.. small hammer, small chisel, screwdriver.. if you have a slide hammer that you can get to fit unside the hole with fingers outward that might pop it.. otherwise its time to start working at it with the implements of destruction.. if you pull out or push in the middle area it should releive some of the pressure on the outer edge.. BE CAREFUL. the cast housing is VERY BRITTLE! not hard to knock a chunk out of it.

the cicular "line" in your pics is very clearly the line that defines the seal flange from the housing..

 

So I just got it out with some center point, chisel, and hammer work. Was that the seal then?? And what is behind it is the oil slinger? I just want to make sure I don't need to remove what was behind it as well.

Also, below would be the front of the seal (spring retainer facing out towards you once installed):



And it is installed by gently tapping it in with a socket or something?

Thanks,
Scott

 

The flat round sheet metal part is part of the seal. It presses into the housing. I would suggest as others have using a large screw driver or pry bar to pry it out. Nothing behind it needs to come out unless you see contaminants in there. The rubber seal that seals against the yoke is bonded to that sheet metal part. Should come out with some gentle persuation. I wouldn't use a punch and chisel as you are more likely to do damage than good. When you go to install the new seal, use something to put even pressure around it when you drive it in, like an old bearing race, socket, etc. Put some grease or vaseline on the back side where the garter spring is to keep it from popping out when driving it in. The garter spring is the very small spring that holds tension on the rubber to make sure it seals against the seal surface on the yoke. Make sure you put some sealer on the splines on the inside of the yoke, just a little, you don't want it getting into the bearings. The gear oil can follow the splines out between the yoke and the pinion shaft and cause a leak. Make sure you torque the pinion nut to 200-220 lbs. ft. Also inspect the seal surface of the yoke to make sure it isn't pitted or grooved where the seal rides. I like to use a little thread locker on the nut to make sure it doesn't back off. Oops, just re-read your last post saying you got the seal out. Good Job! The flat sheet metal piece behind it is the oil slinger. Unless damaged, leave it alone.... It needs to be there to "sling" the oil away from the seal or you may have a leak. Nickmil

 

So is it garter spring towards the oil slinger or towards the yoke?

Thanks for the information guys,
Scott

 

The spring faces inwards toward the bearing and oil slinger.

 

So new seal is installed and I am on the torquing of the pinion nut. I now know that my torque wrench only goes up to 150 lb-ft. I called around to my local FLAP's and the highest is 200 lb-ft. Where are you guys getting a torque wrench from to go as high as the desired 210 lb-ft of torque required?? If I cannot borrow one I may just get the 200 lb-ft one and call it a day, but I would rather get one that reads above the 210.

Thanks,
Scott

 

i generally use medium lock-tite, i seat the yoke properly and crank the nut down with hand tools and then hit it with 2 quick zaps of the 1/2" impact on the 3/4-power setting which is supposed to be about 200 lb.ft .. not ideal but that has always worked for me.

 

Unfortunately this is being done in the garage under my apartment building, so an impact isn't really an option.

Scott

 

There are electric impacts... even rechargeable ones.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_a...field-keywords=cordless+impact+wrench&x=0&y=0

 

A pipe wrench to hold the yoke and a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe is an option as well. Not the best solution, as it really should be torqued, but it does work.

 

Finally got it back together today with the help of some big blocks of wood and a torque wrench from Autozone!! All I can say is that whenever it is sitting in the garage for a long time I get real ****ed at it, but 30 seconds down the road I have the biggest grin on my face!! Thanks for the help guys.

Scott

P.S. - only issues on the drive were a gas cap that left the Jeep (found it), and a stall on the real bumpy dirt road